Last two, I promise.

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magpens

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@KenB259

Nice work, Ken !!!

For lack of a more correct term, I am going to refer to the triangular-shaped dark wood portion as a "pennant".

I notice that the pennants are of different length on the two pens shown above.
Would I be correct in saying that the different lengths are achieved by using different angles when you cut the grooves for the inlays ?
(... on second thought, I am not sure that's really necessary)
(... on third thought ... yes, it is ... in order to get the same separation between pennants on the two pens at the finial end)
(... I guess I am struggling with a question of 3-d geometry)

And while we're on that subject, do you cut those grooves with a router ? ... 90 degree pointed bit ?
 
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EricRN

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I won’t keep posting this same design, don’t want to bore everyone. Just wanted to show a couple that I incorporated vaneer in the design. I especially like the black vaneer with the black and chrome hardware. Both pens are Knurl GTs. View attachment 235517


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Keep’em coming. These look great! I particularly like the red veneer.
 

mark james

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Very beautiful Ken. I love these new designs you and a few others are doing. Excellent work. Thanks for showing, and no need to stop posting pictures if you are doing more. Lots of possible embellishments.
 

jttheclockman

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They look good Ken and you are showing a new technique which is what segmenting is all about. The use of various tools can compliment the making of each blank. Building jigs is probably the best part of the project because you have to overcome obstacles that you do not see with metal lathes or CNC machines. I stress this all the time, remember we are doing these segmentation work with wood working lathes and other tools. How we incorporate jigs is what helps. I say keep them coming.
 

KenB259

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@KenB259

Nice work, Ken !!!

For lack of a more correct term, I am going to refer to the triangular-shaped dark wood portion as a "pennant".

I notice that the pennants are of different length on the two pens shown above.
Would I be correct in saying that the different lengths are achieved by using different angles when you cut the grooves for the inlays ?
(... on second thought, I am not sure that's really necessary)
(... on third thought ... yes, it is ... in order to get the same separation between pennants on the two pens at the finial end)
(... I guess I am struggling with a question of 3-d geometry)

And while we're on that subject, do you cut those grooves with a router ? ... 90 degree pointed bit ?
Mal. The “pendants “ are actually the same size, it must be just an optical illusion. Yes I’m using my router and a jig. I will go take some pictures, literally with a jig anyone can easily make this design.


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KenB259

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Here’s a few pictures of the jig I built to make this design. Not kidding when I tell you, once I got this figured out, it’s probably the easiest design to construct.
IMG_1599.JPG
IMG_1600.JPG
IMG_1601.JPG
IMG_1602.JPG
IMG_1603.JPG


By the way , to get the pointed tips on each end, you just need to make the cut more than half way. Also I don’t make the full depth in one pass. Also the triangular part I glue in needed to be larger.

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KenB259

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The first ones I made. I cut the grooves with the pen blank in the jig straight, so I was cutting into each flat side. It worked okay but I could not get the depth I needed. It’s hard to explain why so if you decide to try this, I would cut the grooves like they are oriented in the picture of my jig. Hopefully I will inspire others to try this design.


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magpens

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@KenB259

Thanks, Ken .... I think I am beginning to get it !!! :) :)

I am going to have to try this !! . I am sure that more questions will pop up when I do.

I think it is important to start with a perfectly square blank

And, BTW, I am looking forward to seeing your "double pointed ends" !!! .

Keep the pictures coming .... this is getting really good !!!!
 
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KenB259

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@KenB259

Thanks, Ken .... I think I am beginning to get it !!! :) :)

I am going to have to try this !! . I am sure that more questions will pop up when I do.

I think it is important to start with a perfectly square blank
Hope to see your results. Yes, good point, the blank needs to be square. And only cut one groove at a time glue it up, sand it back down square and then move on the next one. My jig cuts the grooves at a 12 degree angle. If you cut it to shallow an angle, the pendants will be very short. Any angle you use, the points will move back as you turn the blank.


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magpens

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@KenB259

" ... only cut one groove at a time glue it up, sand it back down square ... " ........ thanks for this advice; I would have rushed in and cut all 4 grooves.

But I think I see what's wrong with that idea .... now that I see how the blank is jigged up .
 

jttheclockman

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Ken thanks for updating and sharing. I too want to try this and I have a little different method I would like to try. You keep adding new pens and my to do list keeps growing. I like to be challenged. You are doing that. Keep up the good work. Actually hopeful others jump in too.
 

dogcatcher

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I tried something similar, but had problems with the router bits. They were close to 90 degrees but even a half of a degree off ruined it. What was the brand of the router bit you used?
 

KenB259

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I have two 90 degree bits, one works, one doesn’t. Both are perfectly 90 degrees. The one that works is a CMT, I believe that’s the brand name, that I bought at Mennards. It is only 1/2 diameter. The other one, that doesn’t work is a Freud and is 7/8 diameter. The reason it doesn’t work is because it doesn’t go down to a sharp point, it has a small radius at the tip. If it doesn’t have a sharp tip, the pendents will not have sharp points.


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