Laminated blanks
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mrcook4570
Member
Like Ron said - sharp tools. Also take light cuts. If you are talking about angle cut dymondwood (or any angle cut wood for that matter) you can minimize blowouts by starting your cuts at the end and working inward.
leehljp
Member Liaison
When I have small chunks come out and I know I have sharp tools, I have learned that I am turning too slow. Speeded up, I have less problem. I usually slow down the speed a little after getting the blank into 'round' form.
redfishsc
Member
Agreed with the above-- as the proverb goes, "sharp tools, light cuts".
I'd advise you on getting to know the skew chisel very, very well. I have recently only truly found out how fantastic of a tool it is. It's possible, and actually IMO easier, to use the skew for 90% of the cuts you need to make on a pen--- including roughing the blank. I don't know of any tool that can cut cleaner and safer than a skew, particularly in the hands of someone who knows how to use it.
Grab your biggest skew (or buy a 3/4 or 1" skew, oval shaped or rounded edges)--- hone it up to or even beyond 300 grit diamond stones. Mount beteen centers a good, clean grained wood like maple, and go to town on it with the skew. Practice and have fun, make lots of shavings (itty bitty slivers should be what you get).
I'd advise you on getting to know the skew chisel very, very well. I have recently only truly found out how fantastic of a tool it is. It's possible, and actually IMO easier, to use the skew for 90% of the cuts you need to make on a pen--- including roughing the blank. I don't know of any tool that can cut cleaner and safer than a skew, particularly in the hands of someone who knows how to use it.
Grab your biggest skew (or buy a 3/4 or 1" skew, oval shaped or rounded edges)--- hone it up to or even beyond 300 grit diamond stones. Mount beteen centers a good, clean grained wood like maple, and go to town on it with the skew. Practice and have fun, make lots of shavings (itty bitty slivers should be what you get).
What kind of glue are you using?
How are you clamping it
HOw long are you letting it cure?
USe you gluing oily woods?
How tight are your glue joints.
Try running thin CA in the hole after drilling then redrill
Based on these answers Since you aren't haing any problems with solid woods I wouldn't worry about tool sharpenss. I would look into woodworking/glue-up techniqueNever mind I thought you wqere gluing up your own.
Diamond wood is more solid and easier to turn than a brand called"color wood".
How are you clamping it
HOw long are you letting it cure?
USe you gluing oily woods?
How tight are your glue joints.
Try running thin CA in the hole after drilling then redrill
Based on these answers Since you aren't haing any problems with solid woods I wouldn't worry about tool sharpenss. I would look into woodworking/glue-up techniqueNever mind I thought you wqere gluing up your own.
Diamond wood is more solid and easier to turn than a brand called"color wood".
beamer
Member
This could be coming waaaaaaaaaay out of left field... but I have witnessed several pen turners using techniques that may not be the cleanest. To put it bluntly, I've seen lots of people who've turned longer than me using their tools in "scraping" mode and frankly i'm surprised. I learned very early on to make sheering cuts as much as possible.
There's a fellow here whom I greatly respect that only uses the skew in scraping mode - that is resting long-side flat on the tool rest, perpendicular to the center line of the workpiece and slowly scraping the tool across the surface to level off his tool marks (basically to plane the surface straight and/or smooth). From everything I've been told, that technique is wrong. The skew should be used in "planing" mode that yields little spirally curly shavings, not little splinters or sawdust. I respect the guy too much to correct him, heck maybe _I_ am the one who has it wrong! (wouldn't be the first time!)
My point is that I can't tell from the post whether the tools are being used properly. If the gouge is sharp but you're scraping instead of cutting, you could easily blow out chunks if the scraping is rougher on the wood than a shearing cut would be.
Just figured I'd throw in a view that hasn't already been given
There's a fellow here whom I greatly respect that only uses the skew in scraping mode - that is resting long-side flat on the tool rest, perpendicular to the center line of the workpiece and slowly scraping the tool across the surface to level off his tool marks (basically to plane the surface straight and/or smooth). From everything I've been told, that technique is wrong. The skew should be used in "planing" mode that yields little spirally curly shavings, not little splinters or sawdust. I respect the guy too much to correct him, heck maybe _I_ am the one who has it wrong! (wouldn't be the first time!)
My point is that I can't tell from the post whether the tools are being used properly. If the gouge is sharp but you're scraping instead of cutting, you could easily blow out chunks if the scraping is rougher on the wood than a shearing cut would be.
Just figured I'd throw in a view that hasn't already been given
vick
Member
Basically when using the skew like described you are using it as a negative rake scraper. May turners do this including some professionals. I do not usually do it on pens since the skew leaves a little better surface but I do use it for shaping the closed ends on resin blanks and it works very well. I first heard of this in a book or video by Richard Raffan. I realize I am not the turner you were talking about but thought I would chime in.
beamer
Member
I should have been more specific - "here" as in locally. I don't think he's on this list
Huh?
Well I aint changing now.[
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