Lacquer Finishing

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R

rlharding

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2007
Messages
844
Location
Nr Vancouver, BC
I have read Billy's dipping article and there are a couple of things I don't understand.

The “brass screw" looking part is a threaded insert, and yes it's covered with lacquer that drained
into the hole that it was standing in. I drilled holes in a 2x4 that these threaded inserts will slide
nicely into. You could use a ¼†nut and drill a smaller hole, but I like being able to use a screw
driver to unscrew the insert in case it gets stuck.

In the picture it would seem that the threaded insert would be stuck in the 2x4, how would you be able to release it with a screw driver?

Before the 3rd and 4th dip take the barrel/bushing assemblies off and flip them so that the thickness of the draining lacquer will be more evenly distributed. If you don't, the result will be barrels with more lacquer on the downward end of the barrels.

I don't understand how turning the bushings upside down will give a more even distribution. All you are doing is putting a non-stepped end next to the pen blank right? Then hoping it stays in place just with a tightening of a nut. And the nut will be covered with the still uncured/wet lacquer that you had to remove to get the bushing off.

I am obviously not getting something. Can Billy or someone else help out?

Thanks.
 
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Ruth, I now only use the brass threaded insert as a backing nut. As you noted, they were getting stuck in the 2x4 and the lacquer draining into it made it difficult to remove from the threaded rod. I now use a piece of Delrin rod w/a 1/4" hole in it stuck in the 2x4. The threaded rod slips down into this and is easily removable.

I use stepped bushings on each end for this purpose. The parts used in the first photo just happened to fit the diameter of the barrel shown. I later turned the Delrin step bushings shown in the 2nd photo for proper fit. I don't reverse the bushings, I simply turn the rod upside down. Each end is the same (1/4" threaded rod) so flipping it isn't a problem.

Better?
 
Ruth,

I do this lacquer dipping thing and I hang the threaded rod from above, instead of sticking it in a 2X4. I turned some basic little handles, screwed the threaded rod in one end and an eye hook in the othr end. Then, after dipping the pen parts in lacquer, I hang the threaded rod by the eye hook from an S hook hanging from a shelf in my shop.

I havea Jackson Polock'esque dipping patter on the floor.

As for the turning things upside down, I do this but I don't seperate the bushings from the pen part. You're right - reversig the bushings themselves would end up with the stepped end away from the pen barrel part. That makes no sense.

I unscrew the wing nut at the bottom of the threaded rod and take the whole assmbly off the rod, flip it over and replace it on the rod and screw the wing nut back on. Thus, if the assembly (from the bottom up) consists of the wing nut, then the nib end bushing, the barrel (with the nib end touching the nib bushing), then the center bushing, then the top nut --- once I turn it over the Center band bushing (which is in contact with the centerband end of the pen barrel) will be at the bottom, held in place by the wing nut.

Make sense?

Nut
CenterBand Bushing
Centerband End of the pen barrel
Nib end of the barrel
nib bushing
wing nut

When turned over is ....

nut
nib end bushing
nib end of barrel
center end of barrel
center band bushing
wing nut


Thus, if the laquer had ben flowing from the centerband end of the barrel down to the nib end, once you turn the whole assembly over and dip it again, the lacquer will be flowing from the nib end down toward the centerband end. The idea is that this will even out the layers and the lacquer will be no thicker on one end or the other.

The down sde to this lacquer-dipping finish is that it takes several days.

The up side is that the finish is mirror shiney and (once thoroughly cured) the stuff is quite durable. I've beenusing a pen fiunished this way for months and it's unscratched. I carry it about in my pocket with my keys and still it looks good.

Julia
 
tried Billy's dip method, and I am in love....here's my booth...I use the wingnuts on the bottom, easier to break loose after the lacquer dries/cures/catalyzes/hardens...I use old bushings and after the first two dips, slide the whole assembly off the eyebolt, flip it over, put the wingnut back on and dip away....

200861133820_lacquerbooth.jpg
 
Billy,
Thanks, that does help a lot. Julia & Jon, so did your posts. Jon, I use the eye bolts and had nuts on the bottom, I was stumped when it came to turning it upside down. I think I have it now.

Thanks so much guys & gal.
 
Jon, very clever set up you have there. I like it. Do you put the lid on that container to keep the dust out when drying blanks? Maybe you live where you don't have to worry about dust.
 
Originally posted by PaulDoug

Jon, very clever set up you have there. I like it. Do you put the lid on that container to keep the dust out when drying blanks? Maybe you live where you don't have to worry about dust.
Click to expand...

I leave it open for air circulation unless I am doing anything that raises dust in the shop. The "booth" is on the oposite end of the shop from the air cleaner and vac and about 7' off the floor, so stays pretty clean.

I have never tried airbrushing the lacquer, and based on my results so far, never will. I didn't have to do ANY sandinng on the last batch, 3 step buff and they were ready...the fewer steps for me to screw up, the better;)!
 
I have only tried Deft and Minwax. The minwax will last forever because I won't use it again! No cutting or anything, open can, stir, dip...
 
I can get a pretty high gloss in model work, although that doesn't use lacquer. I guess the best thing for me to do is to try it out. If it works I'll report back. It it doesn't I'll secretly die of embarassment.:)

Marc

Originally posted by Texatdurango
No. You won't get near the smoothness.
Click to expand...
 
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