Knife display case - suggestions needed

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VisExp

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I've received a commission to build a knife display case. There will be a total of 19 slots routed into the backer board. Each slot is routed at two different depth because the handle of knife varies in thickness.

I've just done a test piece and it worked out great, with one small problem. The case will be configured so that it can be hung on the wall or placed on a desk. The knife sits in the slot nicely when the piece is either horizontal or vertical. However, in the vertical position I can see that it will not take much for the knife to fall out. A door in the room being slammed shut, someone knocking the wall hard, the space shuttle returning back to Kennedy, take your pick :)

I had anticipated this and had thought of epoxying a rare earth magnet into the slot to hold the knife securely. However, the magent doesn't stick very well to whatever material the handle and decorative eagle's head is made of.

Does anyone have any ideas as to how I could secure the knife in the slot? Double sided tape comes to mind, but I'd like a bit more of an elegant solution :biggrin:

Thanks.
 

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mredburn

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Are you not allowed to use a plexiglass lid? Or myabe a small piece on the back at the bottom that flips out when hung on the wall to cant the display. maybe a piece 1/4 by 1 1/2 by the width of the display recessed into the back of the display so it would lay flat on the desk but flip out when hung on the wall. Mike
 

fernhills

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Think screen insert,wood with spring in it,lever spring. Push down when placing it into slots and springs should push up on it tight enough to hold it in the slot. Carl.
 

arjudy

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Are the knives to be permanently displayed or removable for observation? One option would be to make the back removable for observation and have the glass or plexi in front flush with the knives or backer board.
 

skiprat

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Keith, here's a sketch of how I'd do it. I'd make a couple of clips, like Terry Clips. Recess them into your backer and then cover the backer with baize.
The clips could slip between the blade and the inner knife frame, or perhaps have the knife blade open. This would hold them either with the display case horizontally or vertically.
You could make the clips from thin stainless ( or even from thin brass shim stock ) and if you polished them nicely then they wouldn't scratch anything. The pic is supposed to be a side view.

Those are pretty cool Harley knives btw:biggrin: Do you get a free set?:biggrin:
 

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VisExp

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Thanks very much for the ideas. I should have mentioned the case will have a lid with a plexi sheet. I can make the frame so that the plexi is just above the knives so the knives won't fall out of the slots completely. I was worried about the knives falling a little bit out of their slots and touching the plexi. Of course, I could be just over analyzing the whole project :rolleyes:

Since my original post, I've been in the shop tinkering with this. The actual backer board is thicker than the test piece I routed the slot in. So I think I can make the slots deeper which would recess the knives more and bring their center of gravity further into the slot.

I picked up some flexible magnetic strips and tried putting them on the wall face of the slot but the strips had the holding power of a wet noodle and weren't very effective.

It's interesting how different people approach a problem from different angles.

Michael the idea of a "flip" piece behind the case is great, although I'm not sure I like the idea of the case not lying flat against the wall.

Carl, I actually did think of a spring lever. I'm not sure how I would incorporate it in the slot so that it didn't come loose when the knife was removed.

Alan, the knives need to be removed. I think you're right in that the plexi will end up being the safety net.

Steven, I like your clip idea. Unfortunately my customer wants the knives recessed in a slot. Also I suck at making metal into different shapes and look good :redface: If I had to start making little clips I'd probably be better off just nailing the knives to the board :biggrin:

I really appreciate all your suggestions. I'll sleep on it tonight and hopefully wake up with a solution. I'm sure getting some different perspectives on the problem will help. Thanks again :biggrin:
 

jttheclockman

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First let me say the person who makes the knives is truely an artist. Very well done.

Now the way I would do it is and you can add fancy details and things but the basics would be to have individual pockets. In other words each knife would be like in its own case. You can have darker wood for the sides and bottom and a clear plexiglass window that slides in and out along a couple grooves in the side pieces. The backboard would be a light colored wood. You could make the bottom with a tilted angle into the backboard so they do not fall out when taking the plexiglass out. Don't see a need for a top. If you want you can add stips of felt on the bottom and the back of each individual case. Like I said you can get as fancy as you want. As I take another look of the way you have them layed out you can my idea and just make one long pocket and put dividers in it. Just another idea. I wish I could draw and had the ability to do it on the computer.
 
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Rjones

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Do you have to use plexi for the lid or can you use glass? The plexi will scratch extremely easy.

One suggestion for holding the knives in, there is a clear fishing line type material that stretches, it is used for making braclets. You could drill four small holes in the backer make a loop, slip the knives in an it should hold them.

My simple idea.

Robby
 

Mac

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Line your inserts with felt and wedge knives in . You could even double the felt to make more cushion or use very thin styro packing sheets behind felt( what comes to mind is the styro sheet that is packed between layers of apples in a box) , they have air trapped in them ,and would swell around knives ever so little to fit snug.
 

jleiwig

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Is there a spot anywhere on the bottom edge where the blade is lower than the edges? If so, I'd put a small piece of wood the same thickness as the blade there to hold it in.
 

VisExp

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That would work. The crazy part is that I have and use museum wax whenever I take pictures of my pens. I am planning on flocking the inside of the pockets, just wonder what that will do to the holding power of the museum wax.

I routed out all the pockets today. Still need to rout some finger pockets to make it easier to get the knives out. The material was thicker than my test piece and so I was able to rout the pockets deeper and so my concerns about the knives falling are somewhat reduced.

Taking Mikes idea a step further I have not ruled out making the sides of the frame (box) taper, so that the box sits flush to the wall but the board the pockets are in are at a slight angle relative to the wall.

Justin, your idea could work. There is a slight gap between the handles where the blade is that could accept a small piece of wood. I could cut the slots for that with a slot cutter in my router.

Thanks again for all the ideas. I've attached a picture of showing the pockets all routed with the knives in them.
 

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KenV

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Small turn buttons are commonly used in cases to hold items -- think accessories in an english style gun case - and with a small piece of rare wood that would turn or slide to restrain the knife

Very nice knives ---

Museum wax tends to be a bit messy unless you leave a raised pillar to hold against the kife.
 

workinforwood

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Do you have to use plexi for the lid or can you use glass? The plexi will scratch extremely easy.

One suggestion for holding the knives in, there is a clear fishing line type material that stretches, it is used for making braclets. You could drill four small holes in the backer make a loop, slip the knives in an it should hold them.

My simple idea.

Robby

Rob stole my thoughts...so we agree. I also would want to use some thin glass, not plexi. Over time the plexi will scratch inside and out from people dusting it and what not, maybe some knives will rub on it a bit..the stuff scratches way to easy and besides that, it just doesn't have the clarity of real glass.
 
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