Kitless dimension

[Russ Hewitt]

What dimensions does everyone shoot for:

Tap & Die Set Preference. Body/Cap & Section

Overall Length
Cap Length
Body Length
Section Length
Thickness
Section Thickness

 

[its_virgil]

I do not make many using the M12 cap and barrel threads I so make a few. I prefer the #6 JoWo nib but the section to hold the #6 nib gets a bit fragile. I am not a fan of the #5 nib but it would be a better choice when using the M12 threads. Here is the most recent I made with M12 threads: https://www.penturners.org/threads/todays-artisan-fountain-pen.175402/

Here is another pen using M14 threads: https://www.penturners.org/threads/lucite-artisan-fountain-pen.175418/

And one more with M14 threads: https://www.penturners.org/threads/thuya-burl-kitless-bespoke-or-custom-pen.175264/
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[Fred Bruche]

I'll play, but please realize that there are no rules, these numbers should be what you (and eventually your customer) find appealing.
For now, I have focussed on building around JoWo #6 nibs, the section-to-body junction threads I am using are M10x1. The cap-to-body threads are M13x0.8T. Length wise they are sized to be used with a standard ink converter (with is a few mm longer than an international ink cartridge when in place).
For the 10 pen series in progress (all wood with inner liners), the length of the capped pen range is 137-142mm, with the cap length of 65mm +/- 1mm, and the body length (excluding the threads) range of 76mm +/- 1mm. The cap diameter range is 14.9-15.3mm, and the body diameter range is 14.4-15.0mm (at the widest, at the cap-body junction for both). The body inside is drilled with a 9mm bit, the widest drill bit for the cap is 31/64". Sections are in progress, the length is typically 25mm (excluding the threads for body junction), and the smallest diameter is typically around 11.2mm with the widest drill used for hollowing at 8.5mm.

 

[Russ Hewitt]

I'll play, but please realize that there are no rules, these numbers should be what you (and eventually your customer) find appealing.
For now, I have focussed on building around JoWo #6 nibs, the section-to-body junction threads I am using are M10x1. The cap-to-body threads are M13x0.8T. Length wise they are sized to be used with a standard ink converter (with is a few mm longer than an international ink cartridge when in place).
For the 10 pen series in progress (all wood with inner liners), the length of the capped pen range is 137-142mm, with the cap length of 65mm +/- 1mm, and the body length (excluding the threads) range of 76mm +/- 1mm. The cap diameter range is 14.9-15.3mm, and the body diameter range is 14.4-15.0mm (at the widest, at the cap-body junction for both). The body inside is drilled with a 9mm bit, the widest drill bit for the cap is 31/64". Sections are in progress, the length is typically 25mm (excluding the threads for body junction), and the smallest diameter is typically around 11.2mm with the widest drill used for hollowing at 8.5mm.

It seems like anything around 15mm thick seems too bulky. Do your customers find 15mm to be acceptable?

 

[Fred Bruche]

It seems like anything around 15mm thick seems too bulky. Do your customers find 15mm to be acceptable?

With the construction approach in these pens (I'll post some pictures when they are a bit more finished) I can't go significantly thinner than that with the materials I'm using.
As far as customers go, we'll see how they feel about it when I eventually have them listed for sale. Overall they don't look or feel bulky to me and are within the range of what other artisan fountain pen makers offer.

 

[PatrickR]

Russ, buy some cheap Fountain pens (some are surprisingly good) to see what dimensions you like.
when designing start from the center out and keep with the 1mm + rule of thumb.
I make some that have a 12mm barrel and use a #6 nib (these are small pens with tight tolerances) Normally with a 13mm cap thread I end up with a 14mm + barrel and a 16mm cap. For length I make the cap as short as possible with a barrel long enough to extend past the crotch of my hand.

 

[Russ Hewitt]

Russ, buy some cheap Fountain pens (some are surprisingly good) to see what dimensions you like.
when designing start from the center out and keep with the 1mm + rule of thumb.
I make some that have a 12mm barrel and use a #6 nib (these are small pens with tight tolerances) Normally with a 13mm cap thread I end up with a 14mm + barrel and a 16mm cap. For length I make the cap as short as possible with a barrel long enough to extend past the crotch of my hand.

I am getting to between 14mm and 15mm. It just feels big in my hand. I can't see how to go smaller and keep it strong. This is 14.5mm.

 

[PatrickR]

What is the cap thread?
looking at this pen the step is huge. If you are using a 10x1 tap for the section you are drilling a 9mm hole. it shouldn't be a problem with an all resin pen to get the finish diameter down to 14mm easily.
To do a truly thin pen you need to look at making it step-less. I would agree that the normal kitless FP is large. I find 15mm too much.
also try to loose the relief cut on the barrel threads. It's unnecessary, creates a weak point and a little unsightly. Run the threads up to the return and then drill some threads away inside the cap to allow it to seat. (This also allows you to fine tune number of turns and/or align patterns)
Here is a step-less pen with a 12mm barrel and a #5 nib. I have made them the same size with #6 nibs.

 

[jalbert]

also try to loose the relief cut on the barrel threads. It's unnecessary, creates a weak point and a little unsightly. Run the threads up to the return and then drill some threads away inside the cap to allow it to seat. (This also allows you to fine tune number of turns and/or align patterns)

This x1000000000%

 

[jalbert]

Usually stick with 12.5-13mm diameter bodies for #6 nibbed pens, with a capped length of around 4.75-5". I supremely dislike pens that are longer than needed, as well as unnecessarily girthy pens.