Keeping it together!

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jimmyz

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Apr 10, 2011
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Providence Forge VA
Haven't made many pens lately but wanted to try a few new segmented designs. I know it can be a challenge to keep the blanks from coming apart, but my experience over the last two days is ridiculous! Main problem seems to occur when I approach the right end of the blank, with the tool moving left to right.

I would appreciate any ideas or tricks you use when working with segmented pen blanks. I know about sharp tools, light cuts, and lots of CA. Thanks for the help.
 
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KenB259

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Dec 24, 2017
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Are your segments all wood? Are you incorporating aluminum or brass in them? If they are all wood, I would use titebond wood glue, if you have some metal in them, then I would use epoxy , and not the 5 minute variety. Are you letting the blanks cure long enough? There are so many variables, as you know, might just be turning technique. Too much heat while turning will certainly cause a failure. Segments really need to be good and tight, no sloppy fits. I'm sure others will chime in with more suggestions to think about. This forum has wealth of information.


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mark james

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A few thoughts. I also like to "turn the corners down" first (start in the middle of the blank and go to the left and right). But, when I get closer to bushing size, the last few passes I will go from the outside - in. That way there is material supporting the segments.

I also am not too proud to say that I will on occasion use sandpaper for the final bushing dimensions.
Also, the use of end caps vs segmented ends will aid to eliminate chip outs or full segment blow outs. The end caps are solid, as opposed to a segmented end with multiple pieces.

I also find that some tools just don't feel right with certain materials (eg, hardwoods, softwoods, burls, acrylics, combination blanks). I will freely rotate between HSS spindle, small bowl gouge used as a scraper, my trusty roughing gouge, Easy Wood Carbides, and a Magic Skew and its cousins. At times each tool just doesn't feel right, and a different one is perfect.

Ken's thoughts are very well stated.
 

jimmyz

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Apr 10, 2011
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Providence Forge VA
I should have pasted a picture with the original post. After regluing the "broken" piece back into the blank, I did a
couple of things that were just suggested. I went to the disk grinder and made the piece rounder, applied some more CA to the blank, worked from the ends towards the middle, used60 grit sandpaper, and, in the end have an
OK blank. I say OK because the blank is yellowheart, with black veneer inserts (basically a herringbone pattern), and I got some dark transfer from the inserted veneer onto the yellowheart. I should have used just my skew for
the final finishing and skipped the sandpaper, but I was afraid of another catch that would break the blank. I
wasn't really concerned with the contamination as I was trying to turn the blank.
 

Dieseldoc

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Oct 28, 2017
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Livermore, Ca 94550
Just to add what Mark suggested.
I will after squaring up my blank to size, remove from sander, insert silcone plug in brass and run thin CA around end of blank, this will help get any void filled between blank and tube end of segmented blank.
Let CA cure for over
Learning to master the skew sure helps in this case, keep it razor sharp.
 

mark james

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Hi Jim. Consider some sanding sealer after the blank has been "roughed out" and before final turning and sanding. At times this aids with the bleed out.

I was successful with yellowheart and ebony. I tried to attach pictures, but was not successful - not sure why?
 

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jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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NJ, USA.
You should always work any blank from the ends to the center. This is why you see so many breaks on ends of tubes that pass through this site. Second yes learn to use the skew and keep it sharp. No need for sandpaper that will contaminate the woods. As mention wood to wood use Titebond. Wood or acrylic and metals use epoxy and let cure not just dry and that takes at least 24 hours even with 5 min stuff. Just my thoughts and yes I have some experience here.
 
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