Just Tested Dr. Kirk's 3 Step

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TonyL

TonyL

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Well, another claim bites the dust.
Dark red AA, dry sanded up 600. Definitely, reduced the depth of the scratches, but nothing close to scratch-free (not even with the naked eye). Tried using terry cloth after following their instructions use a paper towel - no better.

Here's what did work pretty well:
  1. Dry sand up to 2k;
  2. Dr. Kirk's 3 Step
  3. Meguires 105
  4. Meguires 205

I would consider that a good finish; especially with no wet sanding.

Oh yeah, I repeated my comparison using Hut's, One Step, Novus 3, and Peruvian camel hump oil (just kidding about the last one :-).)


I may try try sanding up to 3k, followed by the enumerated.

Next stop Finesse IT.

I will let anyone who cares know how that works out.

So to date, I haven't found anything that beats the MM up to 12k, followed by the 105 and 205.
 
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I switched to Dr Kirk.
I sand through 1200, use the first two MM pad, Hut's Ultra and finish with a light Ren Wax.
I find it easier, faster and more consistent.
 
Thanks for the reply Keith. Forgive me, but where/when within your process do you use the Dr.Kirk's?
 
thewishman said:
I don't understand using a scratch remover with wax in it. Wouldn't the wax fill some scratches and hide them - until the wax wears off?
Click to expand...
I've not used the kirks but eee is a wax with abrasive powder in it and it's a product I love!!!!

Edit: I don't use eee on acrylics though. Only for wood. Would be an interesting experiment though. Just making a comment about abrasive wax.
 
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Assuming we're talking about acrylic

After turning with carbide

1. 400 grit
2. All MM through 12000
3. Novus 2
4. Novus 1
5. Beall Tripoli, White Diamond, Carnuba Wax

If wood - skip the Novus
 
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I've been using the 3-part Dr. Kirk for a bit now. I'll sand up to 600, then red, white and blue - cleaning and buffing as I go. Then a touch of Hut's Ultrashine. I'm happy with the results I've been getting. I'll use this on acrylics and wood pens finished with CA. I usually notice a shine starting with the white, and then things really shine up with blue.
 
I used to do all this sanding stuff..... But now

1) final pass with a razor sharp skew
2) 600 or 800 dry lengthwise (depends on smoothness of final skew cut)
3) BUFF on beal triple wheel (tripoli, white diamond, carnauba)
4) Renaissance wax

You could possibly hit the blank with dr kirks after step 2 but I can't see the difference afterwards - perhaps so with a loupe. Sharp skew and caswell buffing wheels are the ticket.

Just my .02 worth
 
Thank you. I have a process that I like and achieves a scratchless finish as I defined it in other posts. I am just looking to eliminate/reduce the wet sanding. This product makes that claim. Thank you for all of your thoughts and advice.
 
I sand to 2k wet and thenDr. Kirks 3 step. I don't do anything after the blue. Do you actually see a difference by adding another product after the blue?
 
I just used it again on a gold and black AA pen. I used MM up to 3200 then the red, white, and blue...still needed a meguires product to make it scratch-free. Used a freshly sharpened spindle master and a new carbide insert for a little final touch-up. I just think it is what it is. For 12 bucks is was worth a shot. I will definitely use it up. Thanks for everyone's feedback.
 
This is a 10second video of my sewing seam ripper just finished with Dr Kirks 3 step polish.

Shape TBC.
Final pass with a round carbide cutter turned at a 45° angle (handle and bar are not flat on the tool rest). Like a sheer cut or skew pass.
Wet sand to 2k. 400-600-1200-2k
Then Kirk's RED, WHITE, BLUE.


Lath Polished Sewing Seam Ripper. Dr. Kirk wax: http://youtu.be/2CVJ2xEjklk
 
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endacoz said:
This is a 10second video of my sewing seam ripper just finished with Dr Kirks 3 step polish.

Shape TBC.
Final pass with a round carbide cutter turned at a 45° angle (handle and bar are not flat on the tool rest). Like a sheer cut or skew pass.
Wet sand to 2k. 400-600-1200-2k
Then Kirk's RED, WHITE, BLUE.


Lath Polished Sewing Seam Ripper. Dr. Kirk wax: http://youtu.be/2CVJ2xEjklk
Click to expand...


Video comes up as "private"
 
For anyone interested I use EEE on all materials for pens including acrylics and it works great. The wax acts as a lubricant for the abrasive and produces a nice shine. I found I was able to eliminate MM with it on everything but CA which I do occasionally need to us MM still. I am using hut ultra polish after CA but Tony has me wanting to try MCGuires so when this bottle runs out I will give it a try.
 
I have now tested about 10 traditional and non traditional pen finishing products and inspected all under the 10x magnification. For the way that I turn, I can't find anything that beats it. I just returned from the wood workers show in GA...what was passed around as a scratch-free finish, I would not consider scratch-free. Light colors are naturally more forgiving, but just like cars, the dark the colors are the most difficult from which to hide scratches. I have not tried the Beals Buffing System or anything with EEE or white diamond yet. Maybe they are better.
 
I am going to try that. I already own Huts. Have many zeros does the extra fine have (e.g. 000, 0000, etc.)? Thank you.
 
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