Jr. Gent... with decals...

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Marc Phillips

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Jun 1, 2004
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Columbus, GA, USA.
The hardest part (for me) was getting the logos or pics or whatever downloaded, cleaned up, and then shrunk down and printed with a super clear quality... not being a computer genius, this has been an adventure... learned quite a bit though.

Anyhoo, this is some real krappy wood to work with... no clue what it is, but it splintered and acted like a fool
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.. I chose it because if I screwed up the decal and finish, I would not be out a decent blank...

Had some trouble with the decal, as the first one I applied slid around on the blank real well, allowing me to get it positioned and smoothed out.... the next one ( Sea School) stuck almost immediately, so I didn't get to slide it where I wanted it... I think I need to wet the blank real well before applying the decal...
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The main thing I wanted to accomplish, other than getting a real good decal to print, was to make sure I can get the finished pen smooth with no decal "bump" under the finish... worked out great, nice and smooth.

Will be a gift for the person I will be working with (again!) at my new job...

Jr. Gent, Ca finish....
SeaSchoolJr.jpg
 
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Looks really good, Marc. When you have a decal get "stuck" or "bubble up" all you need to do is wet is a little bit and it will "slide" again. I take some 2000 wet/dry sand paper to the edges of the decal (after over nite drying) if I think there will be any decal 'lines' showing.

This is just a different way of putting something on to a pen. Major problem I have found is that when using the "clear" decals you must use light colored wood for the decal to show up. I've not tried the "white" decals yet. But don't think those would look as good. I don't know about lasers but with the decal you can do a multi-color logo for a client.

Here is one I did recently (not multi-colored).

decalpen2eb0.jpg


decalpen3vi3.jpg
 
Marc....here's something that might help with applying decals. Go to decalconnection.com and check out their site. It is dedicated to decals and stuff like that. They have a product called Micro Sol and Micro Set which is specifically for decal applications. I used it when I would apply a boat name or signature to custom fishing rods I used to build. Don't know if you do this, but on my custom rods I put on a layer of finish, let it cure then put on the decal and finish.

Steve
 
Originally posted by RollTide
<br />Don't know if you do this, but on my custom rods I put on a layer of finish, let it cure then put on the decal and finish.

Steve
Click to expand...

I am applying a couple coats of CA, then sanding it real smooth... then applying the decal, letting it dry, then putting the blank back on the lathe and finishing it with Ca.... so far so good... no bumps, no hits, no errors [:D]
 
Well done, Marc. I've not tried CA over the decals. I turn the blank just shy of the bushings, apply the decal, then cast the blank in resin. When the resin is hard, I turn to the bushings. Your way is certainly quicker.
 
Originally posted by gwilki
<br />Well done, Marc. I've not tried CA over the decals. I turn the blank just shy of the bushings, apply the decal, then cast the blank in resin. When the resin is hard, I turn to the bushings. Your way is certainly quicker.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I have seen pens with the decal cast in resin, and they look a lot better with the depth that process provides... I was searching for a way to make a quick and inexpensive gift for people... It has taken awhile and quite a few experiments but it works fine now....

.... which means I will get bored with it and go looking for something else to do .... [:D]
 
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