Jet 1442 and the stupid location for the variable speed handle

[Carl Fisher]

So Jet gives you speeds up to 3k but I guess never expect you to use anything beyond the mid way point.

I'm finding that I still need to use my mini to turn pen bodies on because the handle for the variable speed selection is smack in the way of my left arm when I to turn anything within 6" of the head stock. The funny thing is you would only use high speeds on small spindle stock, so it just seems counter intuitive to not give you a means of moving the handle out of the way.

Has anyone found a way to make the handle either removable after selecting a speed or some other means to pivot it out of the way?

 

[Ed McDonnell]

Hi Carl - If you are comfortable with machinery, you can do a couple of things. CAUTION: I bought a 1442 in 2005. It may be different than yours. Use you own judgement in trying anything based on what I write below. The reeves drive is spring loaded. If you are not comfortable working with springs and don't understand what could go wrong then stop reading here. Make sure you understand how the reeves drive works before you take anything apart. If you don't put it back together correctly it will cause you all sorts of problems. I'm going from memory in my comments. If something I write doesn't seem to make sense, it's probably wrong and best ignored. Unplug the machine before doing anything.

One way:

Put your lathe at high speed (easiest if you do this before you unplug, but manually rotating the spindle will allow you to change speed while the lathe is unplugged) and measure the distance between the rims of the reeves drive pulleys. Note the orientation of the handle set screw in the high speed position. Remove the handle and turn the plate with the index holes upside down. The shaft for the hande is a gear. Disengage the gear and turn the flat so that is oriented correctly (e.g. turn it upside down). Put everything back together. The handle will now be in the way for you at slow speed, but not high speed. Make sure the drive pulley spacing is the same as when you started with the handle in the same hole.

Another harder but better way:

Drill new mounting holes in the round index plate so that you can orient it to keep the handle out of your way at any speed.

Easiest way:

Learn to turn close to the head stock with your right side towards the lathe and your left side angled away. The handle won't bother you. Or, forget about using high speed when turning close to the headstock.

You can do a lot with a 1442, but you have to do it on it's terms. Not yours.

Ed

 

[Carl Fisher]

Thanks for the suggestions Ed. It's an older 1442 that I picked up used, so not sure if there are any differences to yours or not. I'll take a look at the guts of the handle assembly when I get home to see if I can visualize either of your first two suggestions. As for the 3rd, I had considered learning to turn "lefty" so to speak, but it will take a while.

My first thought was to see if there was a way to cut the handle down to a nub and have a removable handle with a sleeve that would slip over the nub. That way you could set the speed and then just pull the handle off while you need it out of your way.

I don't think flipping it 180 would work for me as I do also want to be able to turn at 450 for bowls and such, so having it in the way at slow speeds would only buy me spindle comfort at the cost of bowl comfort.

Can you elaborate on the 2nd option a little?

 

[Ed McDonnell]

Hi Carl - When you pull the handle off (make sure you know how things work before you do this) you will see a round black plate on the lathe that is attached by two screws. This plate has the holes that the handle locks into to hold the speed. If you drilled two new mounting holes in the round plate so that you could turn it something other than 180 degrees, you should be able to orient things so the handle is out of your way at all speeds. At least, I think you should. Alternatively you could drill tap two new holes in the headstock, but I would recommend against that unless you have the tools / experience to drill cast iron.

Once you examine how the reeves drive works it should all make more sense. You will eventually have to get to know your reeves drive intimately. Might as well start now.

Ed

 

[Carl Fisher]

I get the reeves drive and the way the pulley system works, just haven't examined the mechanical portion of how the handle interacts with the pulleys. I've also determined that replacing the belt doesn't look like much fun and this one does need a new belt pretty soon. The old one has been sitting for some time and it's holding a memory and looking pretty dry rotted.

Thanks for the pointers and I'll take it off line maybe this coming weekend and get on familiar terms with it :biggrin:

Oh, any idea if a link belt will work with a reeves setup? Or am I limited to the v-belt?

 

[Ed McDonnell]

I would say you are stuck with the v-belt. I've not seen a link belt that would work in this application.

And you are correct. Changing that belt will be a life changing experience for you. At least it was for me. It made changing the crummy two part back spark plugs on a F150 seem like a walk in the park (when it's really more like a nightmare on elm street).

Just don't muck up those pulleys. They aren't cheap.

Ed

 

[Carl Fisher]

That's funny as I own a 2001 F150 and I'm quite familiar with the rear plugs

I also know how hard it is to budge the tension pulley on said truck to change the serpentine belt. 3' breaker bar required, not a road side swap like it used to be.