Jet 12-21 bedways

[Darrin]

I've had this lathe for just under a year. I've hit this up with some oil and an India stone as well as steel wool.
Thankfully it's not sticking as bad now as it was, but I can't believe they would send out a product with a machined finish like this.
Other than that it's been an excellent lathe and continues to serve me well.

 

[Lucky2]

Yikes, it most definitely looks to have missed a finishing pass. I would give it a good coating of wax or spray silicone, doing so will help with moving the bango.

Len

 

[Darrin]

Yikes, it most definitely looks to have missed a finishing pass. I would give it a good coating of wax or spray silicone, doing so will help with moving the bango.

Len

Yeah Len that's my guess too. About once a month I just stone and oil it but I can't afford any down time so I never contacted Jet about it. Might do that after the holidays just to see what they say.

 

[Gary Beasley]

As long as the tops of the machined marks are level you should be good. If the metal was perfectly flat on the bed and any other mating surface you would have problems with binding as there would be no place for any lube to hang out and do its job. Keith Rucker does a good job showing what thats about.

 

[TonyL]

I own 2 1221s, 1 1015 and 2 Rikons....all of mine look line that. I don't think that finish or lack thereof ever affective their performance. I use the T9 line every 6 months to a year. All glide well.

 

[jttheclockman]

That is done with intention. It is the same with a tablesaw top or bandsaw top. You do not want a slick surface. You want some tooth to prevent sliding. Now it is machined so should be level and no high points. If you have that then need to flatten. Your sliding problem is more the nut underneath. That becomes worn and catches.

Looks something like Engine Turning or I can not think of the other word and keep coming up with "gunsmithing" but know that is not it. All you metalheads out there help me with the milling name.

 

[jttheclockman]

Let us know what they say. Probably just the way it is machined.

 

[SteveG]

I have read the comments, some saying it is an OK surface. But you started by indicating there was binding happening. So it is NOT OK. Is there binding with both banjo and tailstock? It is in warranty, so you might be in for a free replacement. A replacement may appear the same, but be free of the binding that is happening with this one. THAT would be OK!

 

[TonyL]

I find my ts will bind when shavings, gook, dust, small animals etc accumulate under the bolt and washer under the ts. i also clean the machine V channels on the ts that ride along the ways. I use a rag with cleaner, then steel wool will cleaner, then a coat of lubricant - see below

 

[Darrin]

I have read the comments, some saying it is an OK surface. But you started by indicating there was binding happening. So it is NOT OK. Is there binding with both banjo and tailstock? It is in warranty, so you might be in for a free replacement. A replacement may appear the same, but be free of the binding that is happening with this one. THAT would be OK!

Yes unless I tear it apart monthly and resurface the ways, both stick. My 1015 didn't have giant grooves like this. it was purchased in March and they already sent me out a free headstock shaft because they installed the wrong one on this lathe at the factory lol

 

[Darrin]

That is done with intention. It is the same with a tablesaw top or bandsaw top. You do not want a slick surface. You want some tooth to prevent sliding. Now it is machined so should be level and no high points. If you have that then need to flatten. Your sliding problem is more the nut underneath. That becomes worn and catches.

Looks something like Engine Turning or I can not think of the other word and keep coming up with "gunsmithing" but know that is not it. All you metalheads out there help me with the milling name.

I'm a machinist, and by the looks of this, it was done with a fly cutter.

 

[Darrin]

I find my ts will bind when shavings, gook, dust, small animals etc accumulate under the bolt and washer under the ts. i also clean the machine V channels on the ts that ride along the ways. I use a rag with cleaner, then steel wool will cleaner, then a coat of lubricant - see below
View attachment 292801View attachment 292801

I'll look into that stuff Tony, Thanks!

 

[jttheclockman]

I find my ts will bind when shavings, gook, dust, small animals etc accumulate under the bolt and washer under the ts. i also clean the machine V channels on the ts that ride along the ways. I use a rag with cleaner, then steel wool will cleaner, then a coat of lubricant - see below
View attachment 292801View attachment 292801

I too use this product line. Works well.

 

[Gary Beasley]

You might try a flat stone and oil rubbed across the ways lightly to deburr it, dont go crazy and grind it down though.

 

[Curly]

All machined products have tolerances including surface finishes. That may very well be within the manufacturers specification and the only way to know for sure would be to have the drawing and a surface roughness tester or at least a surface roughness comparator. With the former you sit it on the surface and turn it on and a little stylus (something like a record needle) is dragged along the metal for a short distance to get an average reading. The latter is a plastic card with a metal plated surface with different roughness finishes using different methods, turned, milled, ground etc., that you use to compare with. The testers are a few thousand and up and the comparator one or two hundred. Note when I say finish I'm talking about the surface of the raw metal and not a paint or coating. From the picture, not the most accurate or reliable method, it looks like it would fall in range of a 125 micron finish and while it may not look as nice as you think it should it should be is probably acceptable. If you want a better out of the box finish you'll need to spend a bunch more for a Oneway or Robust