WriteON
Member
It's spinning loose when drilling. Is the tapered # 2 bar that goes into tailstock worn? It is time to replace?
Agree fully with Pete.The Morse taper his coming loose from the vibration of drilling. If you hold the chuck back against the tailstock with the left hand as you turn the hand wheel with the right it will stay engaged and not rattle loose.
There are a few tailstocks like the Nova 3000/1624 where the tailstock arbor is threaded on the outside and not the inside like the majority of lathes where you can thread a drawbar into the taper and tighten it. Because the arbor length doesn't change as you advance or retract it it keeps the taper locked in place. The length changes on regular arbors as the handle is turned so a drawbar won't work. That's why you have to hold it.
Pete
Not to debate Holding the chuck. Everyone does what's best for themselves however I highly advise against it but that's me. I'm in no way taking a chance on my safety especially for a pen blank. But the carvers glove makes sense. Thanks for all replies... I strongly feel the spinning loose is from a dull bit heating up and grabbing the blank. Will follow up later.Agree fully with Pete.
The only issue with holding the chuck with your left hand while drilling is that if the taper looses its grip, the chuck will start spinning and can scrape or burn your hand. So I slip on a carver's glove whenever I need to hold my chuck while drilling. A carver's glove is made of kevlar which is designed to prevent cuts in the event a carving knife/gouge slips, and is a great way to prevent hand injuries. Also, my carver's glove has rubber beads imbedded in the kevlar which provides enhanced grip on the chuck.
I also wear the carver's glove on my left hand (I'm right handed) anytime I use a dremel to prevent injuries if the tool slips.
Same here.... as for not fully explaining. Much vague-ness on my end. My apologies. We're 100% good. All on the same team. We're buddies. All replies appreciated.I should have said so in more detail with my post, so I screwed up by not being more clear as well.
Understood. Tail stock is advanced to the proper length. What puzzles me is this is a new problem...has not happened for years, I did my best to get the arbor seated properly without forcing or abusing the chuck/arbor.Curious when you put the chuck in the tailstock is the tailstock fully retracted or out an inch or so. Fully retracted the taper will never engage.
I did what I thought was a good cleaning. I removed and "studied" the inter wall. For some reason the drill chuck assembly grabs tight but comes loose.I can recommend using a shot gun brush to clean the taper out. I also cap my spindle with a nylon top hat when not in use to stop debris entering.
However you say "starts to rotate before making entrance ", that sound to me like the tang is not engaging in the tailstock rather than debris .
Can you shine a strong light up the hole to see if there are any burrs to stop it engaging?
I might give it a try. As for the #2MT cleaner …. Please describe.This is the very reason I developed the Tail Stock Draw Bar.
See video at:The tool is available at:
www.speakeasypen.com
I see that Speakeasypen has a morse taper cleaner, It appears to be plastic with ridges, but the description of how the ridges are attached is confusing.I might give it a try. As for the #2MT cleaner …. Please describe.
I think I understand the drawbar. It does makes sense using one. It travels until the spring compresses and then gets reset. However I depend on the tail stock handle to turn the spindle and the drawbar prevents continuous free movement (for me). Also my lathe is close a wall on the tail stock side… but I might buy/try one. I would use it for certain applications. MagicBob is into good designs.I see that Speakeasypen has a morse taper cleaner, It appears to be plastic with ridges, but the description of how the ridges are attached is confusing.
As to the tailstock drawbar - I don't understand how it works.
LouieI see that Speakeasypen has a morse taper cleaner, It appears to be plastic with ridges, but the description of how the ridges are attached is confusing.
On my previous MT1 lathe I used the 'Green Weenie' cleaner sold by Craft Supplies - its just a tapered piece of molded soft plastic (hdpe perhaps) that you insert and twist to remove any dust or debris inside the female taper. It worked well, but when I upgraded I gave it to the guy who bought my old lathe. For my new MT2 lathe, I opted to buy a brass 20 ga shotgun barrel brush from Dick's Sporting Goods - it cost about a third what Craft Supplies was asking for the Green Weenie, and works just as well. I had to make a handle for it, but that was a simple turning project.
As to the tailstock drawbar - I don't understand how it works. The tailstock of my lathe does have a bore that can accept a drawbar (on some lathes, the tailstock ram is solid), but the problem is that use of a drawbar interferes with extending the ram. I can see how it might be possible to use a drawbar to fix the jacobs chuck arbor into the tailstock, and then move the entire tailstock in and out to drill, but I can't see how the ram drive could be used if a drawbar fixes the chuck arbor in place.
But a more serious problem is that the arbors on most jacobs chucks are double ended - a morse taper on the end that mounts in the lathe, and a JT33 taper on the other end that fits into the jacobs chuck body. It's not uncommon for that JT33 taper do uncouple allowing the chuck body to separate from the arbor.
Same... No problem on 33 coming out. I did use a punch with a spacer on butt end of the Jacobs and knocked out the J33.Louie
I have never had a J 33 taper come free of the chuck body so that's a new one on me. I suggest clean it well, petrol or white spirit, also the socket in the chuck. Then press them together by putting them i. the tailstock and a block of wood between it and the headstock then extend the barrel to squeeze home. Getting a J33 out again is a whole new ball game , I used a large press and set of jacobs tapered wedges CAREFULLY to extract it. To be honest given the hassle, if I hadn't loved the chuck , I would have sold it on and bought another with the morse taper I needed instead of extracting and changing the morse taper.
Same... No problem on 33 coming out on it's own. I did use a punch with a spacer on butt end of the Jacobs and knocked out the J33.
use it by hand, the white stripes are like a Magic Eraser from Mr. Clean and clean it pretty goodEDIT...question for Bob about the spindle cleaner. Is it turned under (slow power) or hand turned to clean.
Next...Not sure what size (thread) draw bar I need, I'm using the TM32 chuck w/TM33 arbor. Thanks. Frankuse it by hand, the white stripes are like a Magic Eraser from Mr. Clean and clean it pretty good
MT2 chucks have a 3/8"-16 thread and MT1 have 1/4"-20Next...Not sure what size (thread) draw bar I need, I'm using the TM32 chuck w/TM33 arbor. Thanks. Frank
That matches my experience. You can easily make a drawbar using components readily available at most hardware stores.MT2 chucks have a 3/8"-16 thread and MT1 have 1/4"-20