Jacobs chuck question

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RProctor

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Jul 8, 2019
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Location
Rialto, CA
This year I switched from a Rockler Mini Excelsior to a Jet 1221VS.....I haven't done much this year with a remodel, pandemic, and new baby.....but finally drilled a couple blanks the other day. Its possible I never noticed this on the Rockler Lathe but my Jacobs chuck won't grab in the tailstock unless the quill has been extended 3/8 of an inch based on the scale. My chuck is probably ridiculously large because my machinist father got it for me.....but I was wondering if drill chucks intended or sold for lathes had a shorter MT arbor that would grab with the quill fully back. Any thoughts on the matter are appreciation. THanks.
 
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That sounds about right. I own two 1221s. However, others may have a different opinion.
 
Your problem is a common one, Randy.
Maybe someone else who owns a 1221VS knows the solution, but I do not.
I would not recommend shortening the arbor/taper.

I just put up with that problem and compensate in positioning and reading the scale
 
I thought I wrote a reply but it did not get put on here. Do not know what happened but again that is a normal thing with quill extending. Do not shorten. It has no effect on what you are doing. Just hold onto chuck as you advance and as you remove. It can pull out if not carefull. Good luck.
 
Can you clarify what sounds about right.....that the quill needs extended out or my chuck arbor is too long?
The quill (needs to extend out). If you can take a picture showing how much of the quill protrudes in order to grip the chuck that may help.
 
Same thing happens on my 1014. It's the length of the morse taper - long. Conversely on the chapters lathe a Powermatic it won't eject - too short.
 
Also, the jet 1221vs is not setup like a large machine lathe. The tailstock will not lock up. You will have to hold the Chuck while drilling as noted above.
 
I would like to see a photo.

I have an older Delta 46-460 lathe. The tapers on Jacobs chucks, live centers, and mandrel savers pop out when I back off the tailstock quill far enough. I always assumed that it is a designed auto-eject mechanism to save you the trouble of using the knockout bar. The previous owner used a Sharpie to mark a reminder point near where it starts to eject. I always make sure to extend the quill past that mark when using tapers in the tailstock. That includes the Jacobs chuck for pen blank drilling. I think it is normal.

The Sharpie reminder (by the previous owner) was placed at the 1/2 inch mark. I tested a Jacobs chuck (purchased at Rockler), and it starts to eject between the 1/4 and 3/8 inch marks.

What am I missing or failing to understand here?

Photos:
* Delta 46-460 Tailstock Quill with Ejection Reminder Mark
* Delta 46-460 Tailstock Quill with Rockler Jacob's Chuck at Start of Ejection Point
 

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P.S. If this is about drilling a tiny bit more before running out of quill distance, my response is:

You should drill a little bit at a time, then remove the drill bit to allow cooling and remove chips and sawdust. You should not be drilling the full extension of the quill in one go; not even close.

I try to drill between 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch before releasing the tailstock and pulling the tailstock out to eject chips and allow the drill bit to cool. I reset the quill to the start point, then push the tailstock back until the drill bit touches the bottom of the partial hole, quickly lock the tailstock, and then drill another 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Never more than 1 inch at a time if I can help it.

Plastics (acrylics) are particularly sensitive to friction heat.

The method takes more patience, but gives me a high success rate, and less risk of damage to the pen blank.
 
My 1221 set up look like Penicillin's. And yes, I hold on to the chuck when drilling. I do see some videos where turners do not, but I still do.
 
Had the same issue with my nova drill chuck on a Laguna 1216. It affected how much I could drill before having to move the tailstock. My chuck wasn't drilled for a drawbar but it had a black "tang" on the end. I ground off the tang and it allowed the taper to go in deeper.
 
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My experience on this subject is a bit limited - I've only owned two lathes, one an MT1 and the other an MT2, and while I have used the same Jacobs chuck with both, I swapped out the arbor when I switched to the larger lathe. So its not really possible to compar how they worked in this regard. I've definitely noted that on the larger machine, the point on the quill extension where the morse taper 'grabs' is definitely different from the point where it releases. In my case, it seems to grab very close to the zero point on the calibration marks engraved on the quill, but I have to withdraw the quill a good quarter of an inch further before it ejects the taper.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that unless the Jacobs chuck and its arbor were made by the same manufacturer as the lathe, it might be merely a matter of coincidence that the grab and release points coincide with the index point on the quill calibrations.

My experience also is that I can't always rely on the calibrations on the quill to indicate how deep I've drilled a hole. Part of the reason for this is that the tailstock can slip while drilling. I find that the old fashioned methods of either measuring the depth of the hole, or else measuring and marking the desired depth on the drill bit are far more reliable.

Richard Kleinhenz suggested that it was helpful to know the amount of quill extension that results from one revolution of the tailstock handwheel. I've made that measurement on my lathe, but I still find that actually measuring the depth is a more reliable method.
 
What's going on here is simply a difference in length of the arbor. My drill chuck and its arbor are from Grizzly; its length requires me to extend the quill a bit before it will seat. No big deal for me because my quill is not graduated, so I don't use the quill shaft to measure anything. I disagree with the advice above- cutting the arbor does not pose a problem. The critical dimension is the actual taper, not its length. You'll lose nest to nothing in "grip" by taking a bit off the end of the arbor. HOWEVER..... be sure your cut end has no sharp edges, burrs, or other defects that could cause a problem. After cutting round it off a bit.
 
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