Is this the right set up??

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Erik831

Erik831

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Location
Salinas CA
Hi, so I finally fought my harbor freight pressure pot and fittings to start casting, just want to know if this set up is correct?? Also I don't know how to start casting?? I bought some bottles of alumilite and some resin saver molds I also bought a small scale for measuring the alumilite . What else do I need and what is an easy thing to cast and familiarize with casting ?? Any tips/ pointers are well appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Erik
 

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Man I hate to do this to people but you need to do some reading and use the LIbrary here as well as use the search feature. Type in the words that correspond to what you want to know. It would take too long to explain and I am sure things will get left out. Don't be in a hurry. Read and be sure to read about the dangers in using those HF pots.
 
Erik831 said:
Hi, so I finally fought my harbor freight pressure pot and fittings to start casting, just want to know if this set up is correct?? Also I don't know how to start casting?? I bought some bottles of alumilite and some resin saver molds I also bought a small scale for measuring the alumilite . What else do I need and what is an easy thing to cast and familiarize with casting ?? Any tips/ pointers are well appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Erik
Click to expand...

Erik, there are several different ways to set up the HF pots, I prefer less joints/hardware but your set-up will work for pressure. The HF pot will work fine as long as you stay within the pressure limits. I have some older pots that were rated at 80 psi but I believe the newer ones are rated at 60 psi. These pots get a bad rap but if they are set up properly they will work just fine.

If you are using alumilite and only bought the 32oz kit you may be in for a disappointment bec although their is no real science to mixing it (add A then pigment and mix then add B and mix again then pour and pressureize) if you make a very small batch in order to save resin you may not get the result you want. I would recommend that you start with straight resin and pigments until you get the hang of it and then move on to adding stuff to the resin. If you are making a small batch (less than 10oz) warming up the mold before you pour the resin will help it to set better. The most common problem begginers have with alumilite is their first casts are very small (in order to save resin) and if you are using the clear a small mix may not create enough heat and the blanks will turn up a bit cloudy or even bendable (if that is a word).
 
I just bought my second harbor freight pot but I stripped all the fittings from the top and bought a valve, inlet, and gauge and it holds 65 lbs for a 24 hr period, no problem. I gotta say though, I got the idea from Curtis(Mesquite man)

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Last edited:
seamus7227 said:
I just bought my second harbor freight pot but I stripped all the fittings from the top and bought a valve, inlet, and gauge and it holds 65 lbs for a 24 hr period, no problem. I gotta say though, I got the idea from Curtis(Mesquite man)
Click to expand...

I've read that many people use the hf pot with no problems I even checked the hf website for reviews and even there some people use them for casting with success , I think as long as I follow their safety directions I should be ok . Btw thanks for uploading the picture that sure helped.
 
ElMostro said:
Erik, there are several different ways to set up the HF pots, I prefer less joints/hardware but your set-up will work for pressure. The HF pot will work fine as long as you stay within the pressure limits. I have some older pots that were rated at 80 psi but I believe the newer ones are rated at 60 psi. These pots get a bad rap but if they are set up properly they will work just fine.

If you are using alumilite and only bought the 32oz kit you may be in for a disappointment bec although their is no real science to mixing it (add A then pigment and mix then add B and mix again then pour and pressureize) if you make a very small batch in order to save resin you may not get the result you want. I would recommend that you start with straight resin and pigments until you get the hang of it and then move on to adding stuff to the resin. If you are making a small batch (less than 10oz) warming up the mold before you pour the resin will help it to set better. The most common problem begginers have with alumilite is their first casts are very small (in order to save resin) and if you are using the clear a small mix may not create enough heat and the blanks will turn up a bit cloudy or even bendable (if that is a word).
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the info, few questions though, I've also read that putting the resin in hot water and heating the mold will help with better results?.... Im using the clear resin so you mean It'll be better to mix big batches (more than 10oz)??
 
I "would not" have "any" presure pot with out a pop off size no higher than recommended for the pot. I am looking forward to hearing all the fun you are having.
"Not" how bad your injuries are from taking chances with this.Do have fun.
 
ElMostro said:
If you are using alumilite and only bought the 32oz kit you may be in for a disappointment bec although their is no real science to mixing it (add A then pigment and mix then add B and mix again then pour and pressureize) if you make a very small batch in order to save resin you may not get the result you want. I would recommend that you start with straight resin and pigments until you get the hang of it and then move on to adding stuff to the resin. If you are making a small batch (less than 10oz) warming up the mold before you pour the resin will help it to set better. The most common problem begginers have with alumilite is their first casts are very small (in order to save resin) and if you are using the clear a small mix may not create enough heat and the blanks will turn up a bit cloudy or even bendable (if that is a word).
Click to expand...

I know Eugene has been casting with Alumilite a looong time (:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:) and has become very proficient in doing so, but a major mistake beginners do is mixing as is highlighted above. As per Curtis, when you are coloring the clear, mix A & B together until it clears (when you first combine them, they will be slightly cloudy and you can see the difference in the two parts), then add your pigment and mix again. If the A & B are not thoroughly mixed, it will not set correctly.
 
Erik831 said:
ElMostro said:
Erik, there are several different ways to set up the HF pots, I prefer less joints/hardware but your set-up will work for pressure. The HF pot will work fine as long as you stay within the pressure limits. I have some older pots that were rated at 80 psi but I believe the newer ones are rated at 60 psi. These pots get a bad rap but if they are set up properly they will work just fine.

If you are using alumilite and only bought the 32oz kit you may be in for a disappointment bec although their is no real science to mixing it (add A then pigment and mix then add B and mix again then pour and pressureize) if you make a very small batch in order to save resin you may not get the result you want. I would recommend that you start with straight resin and pigments until you get the hang of it and then move on to adding stuff to the resin. If you are making a small batch (less than 10oz) warming up the mold before you pour the resin will help it to set better. The most common problem begginers have with alumilite is their first casts are very small (in order to save resin) and if you are using the clear a small mix may not create enough heat and the blanks will turn up a bit cloudy or even bendable (if that is a word).
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the info, few questions though, I've also read that putting the resin in hot water and heating the mold will help with better results?.... Im using the clear resin so you mean It'll be better to mix big batches (more than 10oz)??
Click to expand...

Erik, I only use alumilite so whatever I say is in reference to alumilite not PR. For alumilite warm the mold not the resin (some folks warm the resin for PR). HOWEVER, in the past some batches of the part B Clear had thickened over time so warming it up thins it a bit but use this method only if the part B is thick (syrupy). JUST MAKE SURE THAT NO WATER OR CONDENSATION GETS MIXED INTO THE RESIN. If you warm up the resin have in mind that it will set faster.

As far as Monty's advise below, I agree that making sure that part A & B are properly mixed is KEY, however another problem beginners run in to is that by mixing A & B before adding the powdered pigments the resin starts to thicken and by the time you add the powdered pigments they may not mix properly and you may end up with pockets of unmixed pigment throughout the blank. If you are using liquid dyes then you do not have this issue and mixing A & B before adding color works fine. There are several ways to mix the resin and over time you will decide what works for you, but if you start with a very small amount of resin you will run out of resin before you run out of ideas.

Monty said:
ElMostro said:
If you are using alumilite and only bought the 32oz kit you may be in for a disappointment bec although their is no real science to mixing it (add A then pigment and mix then add B and mix again then pour and pressureize) if you make a very small batch in order to save resin you may not get the result you want. I would recommend that you start with straight resin and pigments until you get the hang of it and then move on to adding stuff to the resin. If you are making a small batch (less than 10oz) warming up the mold before you pour the resin will help it to set better. The most common problem begginers have with alumilite is their first casts are very small (in order to save resin) and if you are using the clear a small mix may not create enough heat and the blanks will turn up a bit cloudy or even bendable (if that is a word).
Click to expand...

I know Eugene has been casting with Alumilite a looong time (:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:) and has become very proficient in doing so, but a major mistake beginners do is mixing as is highlighted above. As per Curtis, when you are coloring the clear, mix A & B together until it clears (when you first combine them, they will be slightly cloudy and you can see the difference in the two parts), then add your pigment and mix again. If the A & B are not thoroughly mixed, it will not set correctly.
Click to expand...
 
Seamus, what does the inside of your tank look like? Do you make any modifications to prevent a blast of air disturbing the resin? I apologize if this is a stupid question, I just thought I heard something like that mentioned once. I have yet to set up my old Craftsman (made by Devilbus according to Curtis) pressure pot.
Thanks!
 
That is a great question Lenny! Believe it or not, I dont have anything protecting the top of my blanks. There is a "T" on the underside of the lid(inlet port) so as the air comes into the pot it shots to either side of the upper portion of the pot. With that said, when i first started using the pot i would open the valve wide open and let all of the air inside(at 150psi, that is a lot of air really fast), and have since stopped that since i had many failures that I couldnt figure out how they kept occurring.
Now what i do is, open the valve slowly and let the pressure build up gradually. Since doing so my failures have dissappeared!
 
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