Inlay powder

[tinker]

I know I have found a tutorial on this, but failed to tag it and further searches don't help.[:I]
I want to inlay a few pens with initials, but I am not sure how to proceed. I can have them lasered and then fill with a powder and CA glue then finish. Is that the correct process? What powder and where to get it?

 

[JimGo]

If you look at MDWine's latest post, you should see that some laser engravers (e.g., Mike and Jenn Aminson) will do the filling too.

I would encourage you to try filling something like the rings (i.e. something like a burn line) before you try filling something more complex, like engravings. I would imaginge that trying to fill in the engravings would be a rather difficult process, especially if you want to keep everything pristine. I've tried just filling some skew-made rings in my pens, and getting all the stupid grains to go into the indention is difficult. Couple that with not getting CA or any of the inlay material on the pen itself (since you don't want to ruin your finish if you've had it engraved, as that may necessitate turning/sanding into the engraving), and you can start to see what problems you might have. I know that, for mine, I wind up turning off all the "rogue" glue and embossing powder (my choice so far for inlay material).

Of course, this is just my experience as one who is still very new to this whole thing!

 

[DCBluesman]

I believe that Mike Amison and Ken Nelsen use Color Fill, available from http://www.laserbits.com/ . I have been very successful in using acrylic paint. In either case, then finish needs to be cured first. Apply whichever fill and wipe off completely. The color will remain in the depressions. If you have further questions you can always contact them offline.

 

[tinker]

JimGo,
Those are beautiful pens that MDWine posted. Very good advise on the practice. I have learned my lessons on not practicing before attempting on the project. Heck, I could just buy a pen and give it as a present, probably cheaper than I can make one, but I would like to give something that I made and can be proud of. It is a hobby and I have the time to try to get my skills escalated. This forum has helped me greatly getting to the point that I have actually made a few pens.
To be able to make pens with the wow factor so many members have done would be very satisfying. It may be beyond my abilities, but without trying I'll never know.

 

[tinker]

Originally posted by DCBluesman
<br />I believe that Mike Amison and Ken Nelsen use Color Fill, available from http://www.laserbits.com/ . I have been very successful in using acrylic paint. In either case, then finish needs to be cured first. Apply whichever fill and wipe off completely. The color will remain in the depressions. If you have further questions you can always contact them offline.

That is a great site. Thanks loads. They have tech tips along with their products, which should help a lot.

 

[btboone]

Tinker, I have also used CA tinted with the pearlescent dyes used for casting resin in lasered pens. It worked fine too. My puzzle pen was done that way and my signature pen as well.

 

[tinker]

Originally posted by btboone
<br />Tinker, I have also used CA tinted with the pearlescent dyes used for casting resin in lasered pens. It worked fine too. My puzzle pen was done that way and my signature pen as well.

Bruce,
We are practically neighbors. Do you get the dye locally or over the internet? I would like to try a few different ways of doing this. Your pens are awesome. The puzzle pen left me wondering, "how the heck did he do that."
I looked at your website, absolutely beautiful rings.

 

[btboone]

Hi Richard, We are neighbors! Come on by sometime and I'll show you the shop and how I did the puzzle pens. I got the supplies for the polyester including dyes and powders from Artstuf on the internet. I read that in Jay Picken's article that's now posted on the IAP home page.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have recently started experimenting doing this with mixed results. I am using metallic acrylic paints and laying on thick then skewing off the high points after drying. Results are fairly good but some woods, especially the 'plastic' ones like steelwood, dymondwood, etc. do not want to hold the paint well and results are uneven. Most regular woods do well but I have only tried a couple so far. Have a walnut with gold rings on the lathe now drying.