Inisight on flushing the tube to the blank on a new kit.

[endacoz]

I made a "new series" FP for a customer recently. It looks like she will be asking me to make more of these thin fountain pens. I like the kit, have to be careful cutting the "tennon." but it feels nice.

If I will be making more of these, I was trying to figure out what size barrel trimmer sleeve to order as that might speed up my process. The companies selling this pen kit don't have the trimmer sleeve for sale, at least automatically linked to this pen kit.

What should I order to best true up the blank?

Or should I man up and just make the sanding disc for my lathe and use a knockout punch that just fits inside the tube to flush?

I'm open to all thoughts on this.

 

[kruzzer]

Rick Herrell makes an offset sanding attachment for the lathe that is excellent.
You can find him in the vendor catalog... hope this helps

 

[mecompco]

I went to the sanding disk and never looked back. No worries about torn up blanks, and some blanks pretty much require the sanding approach. Also gives you very precise control so as not to over trim. So, that's my vote, FWIW.

Edit: I agree about Rick Herrell's sanding attachment--well worth the modest expense. You CAN do w/o it, but sanding can be a bit slow when you're just using the center of the disk.

 

[stonepecker]

Ethan...... Rick's offset attachment is well worth the money.
You will save money in the long run.

Be gentle when using the sanding disk.... to aggressive and you can round over a blank easily. DAMHIKT

 

[campzeke]

+1 on the sanding disc. Never going back to my old way...

 

[magpens]

The New Series FP uses a tube close to 10mm (BearToothWoods recommends a 9.7mm drill bit which is 0.381"). . You might get away with using a "10mm" barrel trimmer shaft which you would use for a cigar pen (with a 0.385" diameter tube) but the fit might be too tight.

Your best bet is to change your ways and go to the sanding disc as others have said.

 

[Mr Vic]

You can use your 7mm barrel trimmer an turn an adapter sleeve out of UMHW Plastic, Corian or even wood. Cheapest and most expedient. The sanding jig is of course a great way to go if you choose to spent the money.

 

[TonyL]

Rick's offset jig and transfers punches from HF or just about anywhere is what I use.

 

[jttheclockman]

sanding disc is the way to go. I do not use any offset jig. So easy to just move the sandpaper.

 

[randyrls]

I agree about the sanding disk. You can make your own sleeve very easily. I keep a few 7mm tubed blanks just for this purpose. See the page below. The last paragraph is a brief description.

http://www.penturners.org/wiki/Pen_Blank_Preparation

This article from the Library is more detailed.
http://content.penturners.org/library/tools_and_jigs/pen_mill_sleeve.pdf

 

[Mortalis]

I dont understand.
OP asked about a barrel trimmer to make the outer end flush with the tube and then talks about cutting a tenon. All this I understand.
What I dont understand is what does an offset sander have to do with the process of being careful turning the tenon? Or, am I just misunderstanding?
I would like to see the finished pen maybe then I would understand the answers to the question.

Just want to learn whenever something like this comes up. Always looking new, better, faster ways.

 

[jttheclockman]

I dont understand.
OP asked about a barrel trimmer to make the outer end flush with the tube and then talks about cutting a tenon. All this I understand.
What I dont understand is what does an offset sander have to do with the process of being careful turning the tenon? Or, am I just misunderstanding?
I would like to see the finished pen maybe then I would understand the answers to the question.

Just want to learn whenever something like this comes up. Always looking new, better, faster ways.

The way I read it is the OP just mentions that he has to cut a tenon with this type kit, in passing. His problem is he can not find an insert for his barrel trimmer that matches the tube used for that kit. This is not uncommon with so many different kits on the market today. Each kit may have tubes that are just slightly different in size. He wants to be able to flush trim the ends as you normally do. The best method is a sanding disc and the use of transfer punches will match just about any size tube on the market. Drill bits can be substituted also if need be.

 

[Brian G]

There are times where I prefer to use a barrel trimmer over a sanding disc on the lathe.

I bought a barrel trimmer sleeve set. Yes, it's pricey for what it does, but when I make a run of several different pens, it's quicker than changing out the punch or drill bit held in the tail stock. It should have what you need.

Touching up the faces of the barrel trimmer with a diamond hone after two or three pens makes a big difference, too.

 

[Mortalis]

I dont understand.
OP asked about a barrel trimmer to make the outer end flush with the tube and then talks about cutting a tenon. All this I understand.
What I dont understand is what does an offset sander have to do with the process of being careful turning the tenon? Or, am I just misunderstanding?
I would like to see the finished pen maybe then I would understand the answers to the question.

Just want to learn whenever something like this comes up. Always looking new, better, faster ways.

The way I read it is the OP just mentions that he has to cut a tenon with this type kit, in passing. His problem is he can not find an insert for his barrel trimmer that matches the tube used for that kit. This is not uncommon with so many different kits on the market today. Each kit may have tubes that are just slightly different in size. He wants to be able to flush trim the ends as you normally do. The best method is a sanding disc and the use of transfer punches will match just about any size tube on the market. Drill bits can be substituted also if need be.

I use a belt sander (one with the disc sander off the side) and mount a matching size transfer punch in a toolmaker's vise aligned 90º with the angle gage that came with the sander mounted on the table. I then rotate the blank on the transfer punch with the end against the sanding belt.

For turning the tenons I use a 1/4" parting tool.