I'm new to the craft, but am having fun learning.

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Fine Engineer

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Nov 17, 2021
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Carson City, NV
Hi all,
I'm new here, but already like what I see. This is similar in feel to a boatbuilding forum I used to frequent. I look forward to posting more and trading ideas with others here. I've already gotten several ideas just from looking at some of the threads.

I'm a mechanical engineer living in Carson City, NV. As a former mechanic, machinist, and all round tinkerer, I have always had a penchant for making things. Professionally, I used to make things, and now I come up with the ideas and draw the pictures that others make things from. I've made furniture for the house and done lots of home improvements as well, so I'm not new to tools and making things. This is an entirely new endeavor though.

So far, I've made 3 pens, and have noticed the 90-10 rule in clear display. That is that it takes 10% of the effort to get 90% of the results you want, and 90% of the energy to get that last 10%. My first efforts look good on the surface, but each has a flaw I'd like to learn to eliminate.

So the first one was a Slimline using the Cocobolo supplied with the kit assortment I bought. As a first effort, I could hardly expect perfection, so am happy with the result.
The second one was an experiment on several fronts. While making some blanks from wood I already have, I took some Willow, and sandwiched it with Walnut. All the sections were nearly 3/8", so I thought I'd end up turning all the Walnut off and just end up with the Willow. So I cut it up into 1/2" sections, rotated every other one, and glued it all back together. I then used a Comfort pen kit (figuring the larger diameter would work better for this), and chucked it up. One of the things I wanted to test was combining two woods of very different harnesses. The result was just fine. The Willow didn't gouge out or chip, and the result was just fine. I gave this one to my daughter who had a special attachment to the tree that I got the Willow from.

The third pen is Maple and Jatoba with aluminum separators (soda can metal) on a Satin Designer Twist kit. I need to work on my precision with these interlocking segments, but I'm very happy with the overall results. Both woods respond spectacularly to CA finish, and the feel is very nice. I'll be working on the sister to this one today, so we'll see how the inverse color scheme turns out.

Anyway, this is a decent start, and I look forward to sharing more with all of you as I progress with this.

I also need to work on my photography, as these shots are nowhere near up to the standards I've seen here. ONe thing at a time though, right?
 

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KenB259

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Dec 24, 2017
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Excellent start, most people don't jump right into segmenting. Precision is a key factor, as you know. You're off to a great start.
 

magpens

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Feb 2, 2011
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Hi Jeff !! . . Warm welcome to IAP !! . . :D

I would say that you are off to a VERY GOOD START !!

Do I see some scallops in that 3rd pen ? . . . That's pretty advanced segmenting !!! . . . Heading up the WOW ladder !!
 

Fine Engineer

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Joined
Nov 17, 2021
Messages
286
Location
Carson City, NV
Hi Jeff !! . . Warm welcome to IAP !! . . :D

I would say that you are off to a VERY GOOD START !!

Do I see some scallops in that 3rd pen ? . . . That's pretty advanced segmenting !!! . . . Heading up the WOW ladder !!
I was trying for the dual scallop design (two 'V' cuts, 90° apart with thin aluminum). I discovered that I needed to start drilling on that end, as I started on the other end and the drill wandered, causing more of a random metal doodle rather than two scallops. I'll be doing the sister to this one today, and will see if I can get closer to a matched set of 'V's.

I have some brass and some copper material as well and want to do some Celtic knots, then see what else I can come up with.
 

magpens

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I was trying for the dual scallop design (two 'V' cuts, 90° apart with thin aluminum). I discovered that I needed to start drilling on that end, as I started on the other end and the drill wandered, causing more of a random metal doodle rather than two scallops. I'll be doing the sister to this one today, and will see if I can get closer to a matched set of 'V's.

I have some brass and some copper material as well and want to do some Celtic knots, then see what else I can come up with.

@Fine Engineer

You seem to be jumping in at the deep end . . .
. . . and experiencing remarkable success with things that I have not even attempted in my 11+ yrs of pens.
Must be the machinist in you !! :D

More power to ya !!! . .:D
 

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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Fine looking pens (pun intended). Fred welcome aboard. Looks like your background may take you deep into this hobby and we all can learn from what you will show us down the road. It works the other way also so any questions jump right in. you will do Fine.:)
 

magpens

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@Fine Engineer

Just curious . . . do you use a metal-working lathe for pens (even wood ones). . . I do . . and have done "all my life".

I learned to use a metal-working lathe when I was developing physics experiments . . . much prefer it to a wood lathe.
 

Fine Engineer

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Messages
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Location
Carson City, NV
So I said that I was doing the sister pen today, and here it is. Still not perfect (are they ever?), but getting much closer. I'm pretty pleased with this.

What I'm discovering is that to get this inlay to work properly, I need to first make the blank absolutely square; say ±.005", then make a fixture for cutting so that all cuts are precisely the same, and then center drill on the lathe rather than drill press. I know this is getting obsessive, but it seems that the effect would be so cool at that level of precision.

So what's the opinion on the color combination; the mostly Maple or mostly Jatoba? I love the dark wood, but that blonde number really has some appeal to me.
 

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Fine Engineer

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2021
Messages
286
Location
Carson City, NV
@Fine Engineer

Just curious . . . do you use a metal-working lathe for pens (even wood ones). . . I do . . and have done "all my life".

I learned to use a metal-working lathe when I was developing physics experiments . . . much prefer it to a wood lathe.
So nice to see someone as interested in precision as I am. Having been a machinist, woodworking has always been a little uncomfortable for me with it's sloppy tolerances, and reliance on hand work (and gap filling techniques). I understand that for the most part, the material is so approximate itself, and can change shape pretty dramatically with temperature and moisture (something that isn't a concern with aluminum or steel), but still...
No, for this endeavor, I'm using an inexpensive WEN wood lathe. I want to see how I like this hobby first, and if it really gets me hooked, I think some CNC equipment may be in my future. I could see a small CNC lathe being great for some of these things for accuracy and repeatability. Especially if branching out to chess pieces and the like.
 

magpens

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So nice to see someone as interested in precision as I am. Having been a machinist, woodworking has always been a little uncomfortable for me with it's sloppy tolerances, and reliance on hand work (and gap filling techniques). I understand that for the most part, the material is so approximate itself, and can change shape pretty dramatically with temperature and moisture (something that isn't a concern with aluminum or steel), but still...
No, for this endeavor, I'm using an inexpensive WEN wood lathe. I want to see how I like this hobby first, and if it really gets me hooked, I think some CNC equipment may be in my future. I could see a small CNC lathe being great for some of these things for accuracy and repeatability. Especially if branching out to chess pieces and the like.
@Fine Engineer

You have your course plotted, it seems . . . hope all goes in the direction you want.

I have a Sieg 7x14 that I use everyday . . . probably the minimum for appropriate satisfaction. . Upgraded chuck to 4" four-jaw scroll.
Some use a Taig but that requires too many compromises for me.
 

magpens

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So I said that I was doing the sister pen today, and here it is. Still not perfect (are they ever?), but getting much closer. I'm pretty pleased with this.

What I'm discovering is that to get this inlay to work properly, I need to first make the blank absolutely square; say ±.005", then make a fixture for cutting so that all cuts are precisely the same, and then center drill on the lathe rather than drill press. I know this is getting obsessive, but it seems that the effect would be so cool at that level of precision.

So what's the opinion on the color combination; the mostly Maple or mostly Jatoba? I love the dark wood, but that blonde number really has some appeal to me.

Very nice work on that last pen !!

Answer to your question . . . . mostly Jatoba, just as you have it.

I agree with you that it is a highly desirable practice to start with a square cross-section blank . . . the more accurately square, the better.

And IMHO it is definitely NOT obsessive to do the drilling on the lathe . . . that hole is the axis for everything else.
 

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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Location
NJ, USA.
I noticed you do your scallops a little different than most of us including me. Here is a quick photo of my cuttings and notice all cuts are on the ends and not split down the middle. That makes like a reverse scallop. Different look.

IMGP1034.JPG
 

Fine Engineer

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Nov 17, 2021
Messages
286
Location
Carson City, NV
I noticed you do your scallops a little different than most of us including me. Here is a quick photo of my cuttings and notice all cuts are on the ends and not split down the middle. That makes like a reverse scallop. Different look.

View attachment 321813
I guess scallop isn't exactly the right word to use for the inlay that I did. I saw this design either here somewhere or on Pinterest, and it just stuck with me. It makes an alternating curve and V shape, kind of an Art Deco shape. I like that it can be very subtle, yet interesting.

For mine, I used soda can aluminum, and I like the look. I have some thicker material as well that I want to try (.050" brass and copper, and some .025" aluminum) and see how larger inlays look. What is interesting is that the variations are really endless with segmenting.

This is a real departure from earlier wood projects, as these are small (no storage issues to speak of, well yet anyway), and pretty quick to make. Furniture takes a lot of material, a lot of shop space, and a lot of spade in the house. I built a cedar strip canoe with a friend, and it took a long time to build, and takes up quite a bit of space to store. So this is a pleasant departure for me, and I'm really enjoying the artistic outlet. Another benefit is that even a complete disaster only amounts to a $10 or $20 mistake. Very little downside to making ambitious attempts.

So in this photo above, it looks like Maple and Ebony with aluminum? Is that purchased metal plate? How did this turn out?

Jeff
 
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