Identifying a process/terminology

[RunnerVince]

Hi everyone, I've been making Harry-Potter-style wands for a while, and I've seen a few folks do some really interesting metalwork on their wands. I'd like to learn how to do this, but I don't even know what the process is called. In the attached picture, you'd have a wooden wand (the blue) with metal banding (gray) around the apex of the beads.

Can you fine folks help me identify what this is called, or give me some terms to use for Google/YouTube searches? I'd also be extremely pleased with any ideas about how to go about this.

I've seen people do "collars" where they're essentially using tubing to hide the join between two pieces. This looks different that that...as if the metal were added after the wand was turned in its entirety. I imagine this would involve some soldering, but, as I said, I'm clueless, and don't know where to look for answers. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[ccccchunt]

It could be done a couple of ways. The blank could be glued together in sections with a strip of aluminum laminated in between the sections. OR grooves could be cut in the beads and an inlay could be done after shaping but before final shaping. Either way would work. I would probably go with the laminating in before turning but that is just personal preference.

 

[PatrickR]

Maple, beech has smooth bark.

 

[monophoto]

I tend to agree with Chris that a laminated blank might be the easiest approach. And that method allows you flexibility is choosing the thickness of the metal layer you insert into the blank.

But my tendency toward 'belt and suspenders' solutions causes me to be concerned about the strength of wood-metal joints, especially since wands are toys that will be used by kids. So my suggestion would be aim for a long-grain wood-wood joint with the metal trapped between the two sections. That can be done by rough-turning the blank, and then parting where you want the metal insert. Make sure that the parting cut is perpendicular to the turning axis. Then, there are two alternatives. One would be to turn a tenon on the end of one side, and drill a matching hole on the mating blank. Or, you could drill holes on both sides, and then use a dowel to join the two sections together. In either case, drill an appropriate hole in the metal, put glue (epoxy is best choice since it sticks to everything) on everything, and reassemble the blank with the metal trapped between the two sections and with the dowel or tenon proving a long-grain wood-wood joint between the two sections of wood. After the glue cures completely, remount the blank on the lathe and finish turn the wand.

That will produce a metal-wood joint that can survive use by little wizards.

 

[randyrls]

I tend to agree with Chris that a laminated blank might be the easiest approach. And that method allows you flexibility is choosing the thickness of the metal layer you insert into the blank.

But my tendency toward 'belt and suspenders' solutions causes me to be concerned about the strength of wood-metal joints, especially since wands are toys that will be used by kids. So my suggestion would be aim for a long-grain wood-wood joint with the metal trapped between the two sections.

To join the thread; An Alternative is to use a brass tube to strengthen the handle or band area. You can purchase 10" long brass tubes in common sizes. like 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 3.8"

This also allows you to put a "feather" (griffin), crystal, or other magical item inside and use pen components to join the two pieces.

 

[monophoto]

To join the thread; An Alternative is to use a brass tube to strengthen the handle or band area. You can purchase 10" long brass tubes in common sizes. like 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 3.8"

This also allows you to put a "feather" (griffin), crystal, or other magical item inside and use pen components to join the two pieces.

Yup - that would be another good solution.

The key point is that an end-grain-wood to metal to-end-grain-wood joint is inherently weak by itself, so it would be prudent to do something to reinforce that joint. Anything embedded inside the wand that passes through the joint(s) would work - wood, metal.

I use those reflectors mounted on fiberglass rods to demark my driveway in the winter so that the snow plow driver (hopefully) doesn't scrap away my lawn. It seems that one or two of them get wiped out each year, but I save the broken fiberglass rods. They make great 1/4" fiberglass dowels to reinforce joints - very strong. Nothing short of a snow plow can break them! They would be another good solution.

 

[RunnerVince]

To join the thread; An Alternative is to use a brass tube to strengthen the handle or band area. You can purchase 10" long brass tubes in common sizes. like 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 3.8"

This also allows you to put a "feather" (griffin), crystal, or other magical item inside and use pen components to join the two pieces.

I don't do wand cores unless requested, but when I do, I drill a hole in the handle, glue in a brass tube, then put in the core and plug the hole.

 

[RunnerVince]

The key point is that an end-grain-wood to metal to-end-grain-wood joint is inherently weak by itself, so it would be prudent to do something to reinforce that joint. Anything embedded inside the wand that passes through the joint(s) would work - wood, metal.

I guess I just need to get better at the process. I've not had great success trying to put multiple components together. Despite doing everything on the lathe and checking for square at the ends of each mating piece, something always seems to be crooked. Sometimes that can work to your favor in terms of the aesthetics, but the control freak in me wants it to turn out how I had it in my head.

As I think about it, I'm not sure I've actually tried doing this since I got my new lathe a few years back. Maybe the new equipment and some extra experience will make the difference...