I tried powder coating, could use help

[pmpartain]

I read both of the excellent articles on powder coating on the main page. I tried two batches of six casings with so so results. First, I found that my oven would only get to 400 degrees by setting the temp knob to 450. Cold garage I guess. I had to manually control the temp. It bounced around from 380 to 420, but I kept the parts in for 20 min. I don't think I ever saw the flow out. The shells came out looking like they were sand blasted. Pretty good looking even coat, but not smooth. Can someone describe what the shells look like if you put on too much, and too little powder, and the look if the oven isn't hot enough.

Second, I took two of the casings and using the beall buff, I buffed up to a good shine. Took a small amount of effort. How can I tell if the shells are still coated? And last. The buffing made the buffing wheels dark. Can I use those for wood still?

Sorry for the long note. If this has been covered, I haven't found it, and please point me to the right thread if you don't mind. As always I appreciate the help. I hope everyone has a great holiday season. I plan to have a great Christmas here.

Mark

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by pmpartain
<br />I read both of the excellent articles on powder coating on the main page. I tried two batches of six casings with so so results. First, I found that my oven would only get to 400 degrees by setting the temp knob to 450. Cold garage I guess. I had to manually control the temp. It bounced around from 380 to 420, but I kept the parts in for 20 min. I don't think I ever saw the flow out. The shells came out looking like they were sand blasted. Pretty good looking even coat, but not smooth. Can someone describe what the shells look like if you put on too much, and too little powder, and the look if the oven isn't hot enough.

Second, I took two of the casings and using the beall buff, I buffed up to a good shine. Took a small amount of effort. How can I tell if the shells are still coated? And last. <b>The buffing made the buffing wheels dark. </b>Can I use those for wood still?
Sorry for the long note. If this has been covered, I haven't found it, and please point me to the right thread if you don't mind. As always I appreciate the help. I hope everyone has a great holiday season. I plan to have a great Christmas here.

Get yourself some brass cleaner.
Are you preheating the oven?


Mark

 

[Russb]

Sounds like you are buffing the brass, that's why the wheel is turning dark. No powdercoating left. Do not use that wheel for wood the stain will transfer to the wood. Reserve that wheel for brass.

 

[pmpartain]

I did pre-heat the oven. The first six shells, I put in the oven and left them for a while to burn off the oils, etc. The second batch got cleaned with Brasso and then acetone. Only difference between the two is the second batch is a brighter brass. Just like you'd expect. I am using clear. Do you apply the powder until the casing looks solid white, or just get a fog of white all over the brass?

 

[ctEaglesc]

I coat till I can't see the original color.
For buffing I sometimes install a wooden core and MM the casings.That's the benifit of using a wooden core.
ONce you have the casings coated you can buff with brasso by hand.If you are going to use a whell you need a platic buffing compound.

 

[pmpartain]

Thanks eagle. After reading your post, I'm pretty sure now that I didn't apply enough pc. I could see the brass color underneat the powder when I put them in the oven.

I used the arrow shaft in the casings when I started, but have tried the wooden core. You made a believer out of me on that one as well. I plan to try some more today. I need to find a glass container to soak the shells in acetone. I think Fangar wrote that you can soak them in acetone and the pc comes right off.

Thanks again

 

[ctEaglesc]

Originally posted by pmpartain
<br />Thanks eagle. After reading your post, I'm pretty sure now that I didn't apply enough pc. I could see the brass color underneat the powder when I put them in the oven.

I used the arrow shaft in the casings when I started, but have tried the wooden core. You made a believer out of me on that one as well. I plan to try some more today. I need to find a glass container to soak the shells in acetone. I think Fangar wrote that you can soak them in acetone and the pc comes right off.

Thanks again

Acetone will take off the PC but it just doesn't fall off, it softens it and needs to be wiped off.You will have a stcky kind of"mess" much like trying to wipe off CA with acetone.
As far as the wooden core for the casing goes.Thanks.
Any other way is just substandard.
I said once before, the easiest way is not always the best way.
The world is full of hacks that won't put it the time or effort to do something right.
Kind of like the way they build substandard houses today.Do it quick and easy and that's what you get.
A craftsman pays attention to detail.

 

[pmpartain]

I had a success! Thanks for the advice everyone. I was doing batches of six casings. On the 3rd batch, after getting advice, I had a perfect batch. I think my problems were that the oven was not reaching 400 degrees when I pre-heated. I put a digital thermometer lead in the oven and got that temp. Second, I was not putting enough powder on the casings. Using gloss clear powder, I coated until I got a solid off white color. On the first batches I got a sand blasted look because there was not enough powder to flow out. People that have seen them like the look though and I think I'll use them like they are.

Thanks again.