How to properly buff Tung oil finish???

[Dario]

I had Cherry pen finished with 5 coats of Tung oil. It properly cured but while buffing (using Turtle car polish - paste that looks like white diamond), I can't seem to reduce the application lines I have. I tried 2000 grit sandpaper instead and guess what, I went back to almost bare wood on some places!

VERY bad move... since the finish is almost perfect to begin with.[V]

I ended up taking everything out with 0000 steel wool and re-applied a fresh coat of Tung oil last night.

Next time around...what should I use to buff it? Lathe speed recomendation will help too

Thanks!!!

 

[JimGo]

Dario, how 'bout some fine-grit MicroMesh next time for starters, if the white diamond doesn't seem to do the trick? I'd probably start between 4000 and 6000. If you want to stick with buffing, tripoli compound might work too - IIRC, it's somewhere in the 4000-6000 MM equivalence (could be WAY off with this, though!).

 

[wayneis]

Dario, firstly I would wait at least a week before buffing Tung Oil. especially with so many coats. Then I would only use a small amount of white diamond on the wheel and buff lightly, then put on a coat of wax.

Wayne

 

[Dario]

Thanks guys!

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

First, don't buff with turtle car polish.

Auto polishing compound is ok if that is all you have.
Better yet use white diamond in a stick. There is a difference.

When I use tung oil on pens I first apply the oil with the lathe stopped then I crank up the speed and apply enough friction with a papper towel until I see smoke. 2-3 coats seem to work fine for me. I wait 3-4 days before buffing. Longer in humind conditions

 

[Czarcastic]

Make sure you are using a tung oil blend (wiping varnish) and not pure tung oil. If its pure tung oil, it can take months to fully cure. If what you have is pure tung oil, thin with 2 to 3 parts mineral spirits before applying.
24 hours between coats, very light buffing with #0000 steel wool between all but the last two coats. 2-3 days to cure the last coat before buffing (only if needed).
Final buff with soft flannel wheel at low speed (1700 RPM max) or on the lathe at 1500-1700RPM and a soft flannel cloth in your hand. No Friction (heat) in the final buff.

 

[Dario]

I am using Minwax Tung oil which I added 25% more pure Tung oil on [].

I am out of it though so will probably use the 100% Tung oil thinned with 2 parts mineral spirits. While buffing with the paste, I didn't see any change...sanding kinda toook some gummed oil...sure sign of not fully cured finish which is about a week old.[] I guess I have to be more patient with it....or not buff at all. As I said it was almost perfect to begin with anyway.

I do have the Beall buffing set...but not used yet. I was buffing with the blanks still mounted on the mandrel.

Thanks guys!!!