The urushi is a type or family of trees that the sap is collected and processed to for the varnish. The only way to find out if it will work is to try the egg white with the brand and type of varnish you will be using.
Forget the Japan dryer as it is made from metallic salts and mostly solvents. Depending on the metallic salts used it will change the color of the paint or varnish. As some can only be used with certain colors.
It really doesn't do anything to thicken as it speeds up the curing of the coating, it skims the paint giving an impression of thickening. There are assorted synthetics that can thicken but they aren't over the counter available.
There are many for water based paints.
Japan dryer is a generic term carried over for the horse and buggy days, when the first articles were seen in this country with what was then called Japanning or Japan lacquer work. Due to the state of the oils and such that the paint makers had to work with at the time. The paints and varnish were a lot more finicky as to temp and humidity and it would aid in the drying.
The best advice is look at the link I posted in the Netherlands It covers just about everything about the varnish and would give you some leads as to what kind you should look for.
691175002 said:
You should be able to adjust the thickness and color/transparency of the layers by playing the the dyes or wiping it off.
I imagined this process intending to apply the fewest number of layers possible (therefore making the finish fast). How does the application of many coats (sanding between) affect the appearance of the finish?
Using poly resin implies that it is, that the hardener has been added. I haven't never had any luck with trying to wipe resin off anything once it hits.
As to the reason behind the layers is the depth and reflections, the look that can only achieved in that way. Each thickness of each layer will catch and reflect, refract the light. Check the gallery in the link towards the end of the post.
The resin layers even applied wet one on top of each other would end up as a homogenous mass. And not giving the same effect.
Haynie said:
Forgive the stupid question but how come there are no suppliers in the US?
Could be the liability, The sap contains the allergenic compound urushiol, it is the same oil that is found in poison ivy.
The amount of sap collected from each tree is only around 250 milliliters per year, which makes it a rather precious substance. They may be using a substitute lacquer now. As even in Japan it is every hard to locate a conformed supplier.
Here is
one guy that does it and he collects his own sap to process it into the lacquer.
Here is some more info
grz5 said:
I was wondering if I can tint my own lacquer
Yes if the dye is compatible with your lacquer. You can get a clear and what ever colors you what to tint it try it in separate containers, remember it will look different wet then when dried.
I have never used the brands that you are asking about. But the metallic powder will work, I haven't used what I bought from coastal yet.
Micheals has a number of other brands of paints in acrylic and oil based. The only thing about liquid dye, if it has alcohol it can thin the clear as you add it for color. You are not going to get around testing, testing and testing.
:clown: