How to Choose a Profile?

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tv68

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Being a new pen turner, one of the problems I've been having is determining which profile to use for a particular pen.

The advice I've seen is to pretty much never use a flat profile where the entire length of the blank is turned down to the bushings. However (and maybe it's just because I haven't yet developed a very critical eye), seems to me this conveys more of a modern look which I'd prefer for my everyday carry pen.

Exhibit A is this PSI EDC pen I turned over the weekend. While it actually feels very comfortable in hand, I'm not that wild about the contoured look.

So my question is, what's your approach to determining which profile to use with a particular pen (and do you even use a flat profile)?

As an aside, any other comments/critiques on what I could improve would be much appreciated!
 

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qquake

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I actually like the shape of your pen. It could maybe be a tiny bit slimmer, but I like it better fat than straight. The vast majority of my pens are fatter in the middle. It's a more pleasing look to me. A notable exception for me would be the magnetic Vertex rollerball and fountain pens. I prefer those with a straight profile.
 

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Dalecamino

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It is a matter of preference. I prefer straight barrels, although I have made them different ways. But straight barrel is my preferred style. Your pen looks good as is. But to me it would look better straight.
 

Charlie_W

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I turn a straight barrel for the Zen, Vertex and the bolt action pens. Otherwise, I almost always have a very, very slight convex curvature to the pen body. On the Zen the cap is heavy and the pen will tilt when lain on a desk instead of laying flat.
On pens like a Sierra style, I want the curvature to continue the line from the Nib/grip section onto the barrel so it flows and you don't see two different arcs or a defined change in the shape.
 

jttheclockman

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Many times the kit can dictate the shape. I am a bushing to bushing guy except when it come to cigar kits and Sierra kits. With a cigar the bushings are all different sizes so you want to gradually get back to the smaller size and I will put a hump ever so slight, in them. Both bottom and top. The sierra has a natural hump to the kit so I try to follow that without going outside the lines of the component parts. Not sure if you follow but will give examples. Now other kits look much better flat. When people put humps in those type kits they are trying to hard to make their work stand out. Let the kit and blank do the talking not your fancy hoops and valleys. Do that on a stick and show it off. Take a good look at all the top name pens and you will never see bulbous looking blanks. Yes they get gaudy but that is carving and stuff. I hear sooooooooooooo many time here about elderly wanting bulbous pens but that is just an excuse. yes maybe one or two may want that. You see so many slimlines here with pregnant blanks that I do not even look any more and comment. Those are beginners that do not know how to get to a good shape yet so I excuse that. But when a veteran turner does that for looks I do not buy it. Want to improve then it is easy to do so and you asking this question is a true sign you do want to and will.
 

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tv68

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Thanks guys. Glad to hear I'm not alone in preferring a straight barrel on some pens. IIRC the argument against it was that it doesn't show any artistic ability and is "boring", though off top my head I can't cite the source.

So a couple follow up questions..

Is there a recommended technique to getting a perfectly straight barrel? Do you turn each side down to the bushings then remove from the middle, or leave it slightly proud of the bushings and sand it to size? Do calipers come in handy?

Also,@jttheclockman - curious what you mean when you say you don't buy it when a veteran turner makes a bulbous pen for looks?
 

Dalecamino

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Remove the same amount of material down the full length of the blank, just proud of the bushings. Then finish with sanding, and polishing (if you use any polish or finish)
 

penicillin

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I make mostly straight pens, because that's what I like and use. My friends tease me about it.

I make shaped pens for others. Every once in a while I make an exaggeratedly curvy pen just to shut up my friends.

I tried making carefully shaped finger grips on a few pens, but did not like how they keep your writing hand farther away from the pen tip. I donated those pens to the library.

Sometimes I cut three rings at the ends of pens to serve as a simple finger grip. Those work out better than a shaped finger grip.

There is no law against making straight pens. I do it all the time. If you like 'em, make 'em. You are the artist. Don't listen to naysayers.

P.S. I use the blade (ruler) from a four-inch square to check for straightness. I also use calipers to check.
 

jttheclockman

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Thanks guys. Glad to hear I'm not alone in preferring a straight barrel on some pens. IIRC the argument against it was that it doesn't show any artistic ability and is "boring", though off top my head I can't cite the source.

So a couple follow up questions..

Is there a recommended technique to getting a perfectly straight barrel? Do you turn each side down to the bushings then remove from the middle, or leave it slightly proud of the bushings and sand it to size? Do calipers come in handy?

Also,@jttheclockman - curious what you mean when you say you don't buy it when a veteran turner makes a bulbous pen for looks?
It is a personal choice for sure but I am not a fan and when I know a veteran turner makes their pen with a bulbous center it turns me off from looking and I do not comment or hit like because I do not. Not my taste. I move on. If you have to add fancy dips and valleys to a blank then again you are trying too hard. Let the blank and material along with the kit match do your talking. To me that is not artistic ability at all. Everyone here can do that. beads and coves and bulbous bumps. Nothing hard about it. Match the blank to akit, use that special wood, do some casting, do some segmenting and this is where your talent shines. I will get off my soapbox now. Happy turning.

PS I use a small square layed on the blank to tell me where I need to turn more for a straight edge or if I need to leave that slight hump for the kits I mentioned. The straight edge will outshine your eye or at least mine.
 

tv68

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Using a straight edge is a great idea I hadn't thought about. Just tried it to check another pen I did the other day. I was going for a straight barrel but could see after the fact that I was just slightly off in a couple areas (calipers confirmed this). Using the straight edge I was able to see the inconsistencies, but it was very subtle!
 

MPVic

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Many times the kit can dictate the shape. I am a bushing to bushing guy except when it come to cigar kits and Sierra kits. With a cigar the bushings are all different sizes so you want to gradually get back to the smaller size and I will put a hump ever so slight, in them. Both bottom and top. The sierra has a natural hump to the kit so I try to follow that without going outside the lines of the component parts. Not sure if you follow but will give examples. Now other kits look much better flat. When people put humps in those type kits they are trying to hard to make their work stand out. Let the kit and blank do the talking not your fancy hoops and valleys. Do that on a stick and show it off. Take a good look at all the top name pens and you will never see bulbous looking blanks. Yes they get gaudy but that is carving and stuff. I hear sooooooooooooo many time here about elderly wanting bulbous pens but that is just an excuse. yes maybe one or two may want that. You see so many slimlines here with pregnant blanks that I do not even look any more and comment. Those are beginners that do not know how to get to a good shape yet so I excuse that. But when a veteran turner does that for looks I do not buy it. Want to improve then it is easy to do so and you asking this question is a true sign you do want to and will.
You do incredibly beautiful work, John. Thanks for sharing.
 

tv68

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So I think tonight's project is going to be reshaping this pen to a flat profile. Would it be better to just sand it flat on the lathe at a low speed with some 150 grit? Or reshape using tools?

Also, I somehow managed to mess something up with my new carbide barrel trimmer and ended up with slightly uneven ends (woops). I was able to get it mostly flush by laying sandpaper flat on the table and just running the turned blank vertically over it. But is there a better way to square things up without a disc sander (other than make sure they're square in the first place!)?
 

jttheclockman

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So I think tonight's project is going to be reshaping this pen to a flat profile. Would it be better to just sand it flat on the lathe at a low speed with some 150 grit? Or reshape using tools?

Also, I somehow managed to mess something up with my new carbide barrel trimmer and ended up with slightly uneven ends (woops). I was able to get it mostly flush by laying sandpaper flat on the table and just running the turned blank vertically over it. But is there a better way to square things up without a disc sander (other than make sure they're square in the first place!)?
That pen is not that bad. I have seen worse. I say leave it and go from there. Use it as your every day pen. Disc sander either on the lathe or as a seperate tool.
 

tv68

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I don't think it looks bad at all. It's definitely pleasing to my eyes. Unlike some of the superfat pens I've seen.

Thanks! I'm learning more each day thanks to yours and others' helpful advice.
 

pshrynk

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I usually use a slight convex curve on pens with bushings that are the same diameter. Not sure why, I just find it pleasing. For different sized bushings, I look at the pen and go from there. I just did an Olympian Elite II from Penn State that the cap had a larger end at the bottom than top and did a rise up from the big end and a long slope to the small end. Sometimes, I do a concave contour. The Panache pen that John used above with the segmented black base and white top, i usually do with a graceful curve, mostly because there is so much "beefiness" there to work with. And Kaleidoscope pens beg for a curve, going from a really fat base to a really thin bit at the nib. It's all in the eye of the beholder, I guess would be my main point.
 
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