How do you store buffing bars?

[VotTak]

Hi,
Recently I bought Caswell bars and flanell buffs. Those bars are so huge it will last for couple of lifetimes(at least for me). Question is how to store these, so they will not dry out?
Thanks a lot.

 

[Curly]

Zip lock bags big enough? What about the tubes welders use to hold welding rods to keep them dry? They probably cost more than the compound though.

 

[BSea]

I keep mine in a zip lock bag. They make all sizes.

 

[Edward Cypher]

I keep mine in ziplock along with the corresponding buff.

 

[jttheclockman]

Same with bag thing. Simple and effective.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

Ziplock sounds like the best. Frankly I store mine with each wrapped in a paper towel. Think I'll change.

 

[Sylvanite]

I just lay them on the bench next to the buffer. I've never seen any indication of the bars drying out.

 

[Mack C.]

Hi,
Recently I bought Caswell bars and flanell buffs. Those bars are so huge it will last for couple of lifetimes(at least for me).

Cut them in half, (a bandsaw does the job nicely), and give the other half to a friend! That half bar will last for at least one lifetime!:wink:

 

[VotTak]

Hi,
Recently I bought Caswell bars and flanell buffs. Those bars are so huge it will last for couple of lifetimes(at least for me).

Cut them in half, (a bandsaw does the job nicely), and give the other half to a friend! That half bar will last for at least one lifetime!:wink:

That is a good idea.

Looks like ziplock bag is a very good idea. Together with corresponding buffs.
Thanks a lot for your suggestions.

 

[low_48]

What's to dry out? It's abrasive in wax. My Beall system is easily 10 years old. The bars have never been in a bag, just sitting in a drawer.

 

[Curly]

You want to keep them clean more than stop them from drying out. Crud from other sources like the grinder or sander contaminating the bars or buffing wheels make it harder to get a good polish.

 

[lorbay]

+ 1. What Pete said..
Lin

 

[magier412]

I agree with Pete and Lin. Keeping them clean and uncontaminated is more important than worrying about them drying out. If something gets into the bar, you could end up with a big scratch if it's transferred to the buff.

 

[KenV]

There are some coarse grits used in metal work that will dry out and cease to work as well. They harden up and resemble a grinding wheel.

Those used in polishing are wax based and, at worst, can get a bit of "crust". I have some that have been in plastic bags for 5+ years and are still good to go.

Cutting into smaller pieces makes the handling and storage easier. Cutting a 2 pound stick into 4 ounce pieces makes handling easier.

Avoiding contamination is critical if you are looking for consistent scratch free surfaces.

I wipe down the pen barrells with mineral spirits between compounds when I am going for the best of surfaces and the premium quality pen.

 

[jttheclockman]

Plus the idea of keeping what stick with what wheel always and I mean always made sense to me so that is why I do it.