How do you do that???

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cacardon

cacardon

Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
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96
Location
Fallbrook CA.
So I am on this site quite a bit and I see everyone but me making these segmented pents with what looks like metal accents. What is that? some kind of metal foil? Where can I get some?
Thanks
SSgt C.

This is not my pen but it shows what I want. Not the scalops but the silver lines.
 

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The easiest and most common way to get the aluminum is to crack open a cold one. Most of what you see is aluminum from a soda can. Just cut it to size, sand the paint off, and glue it into place.
 
Ace Hardware here sells brass and "silver" door shims and kick panels. They are 5 inches wide and 12 inches long. Here, they are available in 5 thicknesses, from 1/32 inch and up. These are cheap, flat and easy to manipulate.

As Dean suggests, if you are not willing to spend the money on the shims, or have plenty of time, an aluminum beer or soda can will do in a pinch.

I prefer the look of brass dividers (and have better luck with brass staying glued to a variety of materials), but the aluminum ones look good, too. I always use ScotchBrite pads to rough up the surfaces before glue up.
 
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bensoelberg said:
The easiest and most common way to get the aluminum is to crack open a cold one. Most of what you see is aluminum from a soda can. Just cut it to size, sand the paint off, and glue it into place.
Click to expand...

If you use cans, you may also want to remove the interior coating before you glue it.
 
eldee said:
If you use cans, you may also want to remove the interior coating before you glue it.
Click to expand...

Yes!!! If you try cans, you must remove the protective layer from both the inside and out or there is NO way the glue up will work!
 
with all these diffrent metals are there any problems with turning them? I am thinking of using a 2 part apoxie to glue them in place. Anything else I need? What thickness would work the best or does it matter?
 
You can also use thin plastic sheet sold as guitar pick guard material. It comes in many colors and even banded colors (ie. black /white / black)
 
Why not ask Wiset who made that pen I call it from the horses mouth. He is a great guy and if you go to the library you find this info chapter and verse.

Have success,

Kind regards Peter.
 
cacardon, I've also discovered that segments should be glued up after you've cleaned each piece with denatured alcohol. Additionally, I am shifting away from medium/thick CA to gluing the segments with 5 minute epoxy, which seems to promote long-term adhesion between mixed mediums such as aluminum and wood or plastic.

Get some small clamps, scraps of material, a disk sander, and give it a try! It's an ugly mess just before you turn it though. Your wife will not be impressed until after the pen is finished. Just sayin'
 
cacardon said:
So I am on this site quite a bit and I see everyone but me making these segmented pents with what looks like metal accents. What is that? some kind of metal foil? Where can I get some?
Thanks
SSgt C.

This is not my pen but it shows what I want. Not the scalops but the silver lines.
Click to expand...

Hi Charles,

Since I made the pen you posted, perhaps it's best that I address the question for you. It has already been noted that just about anything can be used for accents, but if you're looking to use Brass or Aluminum you're better off walking away from the can option. I know others swear by it, but after many turns I just can't seem to keep a clean line with the can materials.

The pen in question uses a .025 thick sheet of aluminum purchased at Lowes for $7. You can also pick it up at The Home Depot or search Amazon...honestly; you can get this stuff anywhere, just do a search and find a thickness that works for you. When working with this material I'll sand both sides and use a Medium CA to secure it to the other materials. A note of caution...Aluminum likes to heat up and will break down the CA glue. As a result the bond may break so a clear 5 minute expoxy may be the best option. This is what I'm planning for my next series of pens to be safe (Thanks for the info Randall). Still finish the blank with CA, but bond with epoxy

Here's the link to my tutorial: http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89931 I know you're more interested in the material, but the concept for the segmenting is the same when looking at the steps.

Feel free to PM me with any questions you might have and I'll be more than happy to help. From one SSG (Army) to another SSgt (Marine) I can square you away and make sure you're able to come up with something really cool looking.

Take care and best wishes...Happy New Year!
 
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Hobby Lobby, Ace Hardware.. You can ge different thicknesses along with rods and tubes. Then just draw it on paper or make it up as you go. Be prepared though to do several re glues along the way as heat is CA`s enemy. This is a blank I made months ago with several different thicknesses of aluminum and some brass along with some copper tubes. Not the most uniform (none of mine are yet)but the pen I used it to make sold for what I consider quite a bit.
IMG_0164.JPG

IMG_5419.JPG
 
To add the beer and soda cans have a very nasty epoxy coating on the inside to keep the contents tasting good. And on the outside so the printing can't be removed. Seems a number of years ago they were stripping the printing off the outside of the cans and re printing one of the big dog brands like coke on them and selling them in foreign countries. So about the only way it will come off is by using a wire type brush or abrasive paper.
You also can find aluminum flashing trim in 10 foot coils 4"/6" wide and up at the big box home stores.
Copper and brass foils and embossing sheets can be found at the big box crafts stores.
Most of the larger hobby stores sell K&S shapes,tubing and sheet metal stainless, brass, copper and aluminum they have flat stock from 1/8" wide and up in 12" long pieces.
You can also check any stores that sell scrapbooking materials.
The plastic pick guard material is the same stuff that is used as the engraveble sign and name tag material and a lot cheaper
:clown:
 
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PTsideshow said:
To add the beer and soda cans have a very nasty epoxy coating on the inside to keep the contents tasting good. And on the outside so the printing can't be removed. Seems a number of years ago they were stripping the printing off the outside of the cans and re printing one of the big dog brands like coke on them and selling them in foreign countries. So about the only way it will come off is by using a wire type brush or abrasive paper.
You also can find aluminum flashing trim in 10 foot coils 4"/6" wide and up at the big box home stores.
Copper and brass foils and embossing sheets can be found at the big box crafts stores.
Most of the larger hobby stores sell K&S shapes,tubing and sheet metal stainless, brass, copper and aluminum they have flat stock from 1/8" wide and up in 12" long pieces.
You can also check any stores that sell scrapbooking materials.
The plastic pick guard material is the same stuff that is used as the engraveble sign and name tag material and a lot cheaper
:clown:
Click to expand...

FWIW:
Furniture stripper and a wire brush will take the coating off the inside and the paint off of soda cans. BUT, the "good" furniture refinishing paste is so expensive that it is more economical (not to mention, less work) just to buy the stock that you are talking about.
 
Tim, this might be a silly question, but how do you safely cut the pen blanks length wise? I can do the cross cuts, but am worried about keeping all fingers when I cut it down the length. I have been wondering that since I saw your work for the first time...which is awesome by the way....
 
randyrls said:
You can also use thin plastic sheet sold as guitar pick guard material. It comes in many colors and even banded colors (ie. black /white / black)
Click to expand...

If you use the celluloid sheets material colors like blue, red, green, pearl, black, tortoise, abalone .. etc. are also available. Actually pretty much any colors are available I think.

Linda
 
alphageek said:
eldee said:
If you use cans, you may also want to remove the interior coating before you glue it.
Click to expand...

Yes!!! If you try cans, you must remove the protective layer from both the inside and out or there is NO way the glue up will work!
Click to expand...

I've done it before with no sanding whatsoever. You can even still see parts of the printing on the outside of the can on the outer edged of the celtic knot I did it with. I wouldn't recommend it, however....

164574_131378633588877_100001502242963_187903_7814971_n.jpg


You can kinda see it in a couple of areas.
 
kevrob said:
Tim, this might be a silly question, but how do you safely cut the pen blanks length wise? I can do the cross cuts, but am worried about keeping all fingers when I cut it down the length. I have been wondering that since I saw your work for the first time...which is awesome by the way....
Click to expand...

I use push sticks. I don't care if a push stick gets its finger cut in half lengthwise!
 
most informative and interesting thread I've read in long time. Read the tutorials and look forward to trying something new. Thanks all
 
kevrob said:
Tim, this might be a silly question, but how do you safely cut the pen blanks length wise? I can do the cross cuts, but am worried about keeping all fingers when I cut it down the length. I have been wondering that since I saw your work for the first time...which is awesome by the way....
Click to expand...

Bandsaw or scrollsaw work for me. If you have a big enough blank and can stand to lose the material in the kerf from a tablesaw then the tablesaw will give you better results. Of course as somebody else mentioned use a pushstick.
 
Allan, do use a table saw with a push stick? I have tried my bandsaw as Jamie suggested, but can't seem to get it dead-on straight. It's almost like my bandsaw blade likes to go off path
 
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kevrob said:
Allan, do use a table saw with a push stick? I have tried my bandsaw as Jamie suggested, but can't seem to get it dead-on straight. It's almost like my bandsaw blade likes to go off path
Click to expand...

In my experience, bandsaws take some skill and a little luck to get a dead perfect lengthwise cut. You can also use push sticks with the table saw. Paint stirrers make great ones. Just cut notches in the ends to set on the end of the blank. The ones for 5 gallon paint buckets work best. You can also buy lots of different professionally made push sticks. I never use a table saw on anything smaller than 5 or 6 inches wide without push sticks. I need to be as far away from the blade as I can get. And you WILL either want a thin kerf blade or a wide-@$$ blank.
 
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IPD_Mrs said:
If you use the celluloid sheets material colors like blue, red, green, pearl, black, tortoise, abalone .. etc. are also available. Actually pretty much any colors are available I think.

Linda
Click to expand...

A word of caution about the real celluloid, it is highly flammable and also easily decomposes.

They now are using polyester compounds as an alternative to celluloid.
The plastic laminate sign and badge material is available on line. The other drawback to using pick guard material sold for the instrument makers. Is the over the top they charge.
Since as pen makers most will be used as a accent on the edge. the laminate edges show the colors. You also can get it in almost any colors and numerous thicknesses.
:clown:
 
I have also used plastic from laundry detergent bottles, motor oil bottles, mini blinds and other stuff I have forgotten.

As for what metals can you turn, any of the softer metals will work. The thicker it is the harder it is on your tools and you will have to sharpen them often. If you use pieces that are real thick then you might want to think about using carbide tipped tools.

My wife hates it when we are out shopping and all of a sudden I am not around her and looking at something we do not need. She asks me why am I looking at it and I say "Wonder if this will work in a pen?". She just shakes her head and walks away.

So keep your eyes open.

Wes
 
wiset1 said:
dalecamino said:
If you want to put a little art into it, try this.....

http://content.penturners.org/library/pen_blanks/curved_metal_segmenting.pdf
Click to expand...

Good tutorial, but I wonder about getting that perfectly snug fit on the segment when doing rounded cuts? The final turn looks awesome, but for me the gaps really throw me. Would additional sanding allow for the removal of the gaps between accent material and wood??? Need a scroll saw now:biggrin:
Click to expand...
Tim, sanding IS important as well as bending the metal without kinking it. You want a snug fit WITHOUT squeezing out all your glue. I tried cutting these with a scroll saw but, acrylics melted to the blade. Then, I got a 1/8" blade for my band saw. Works great. Hope I answered your question.
 
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