How do you address tight nibs

[bugradx2]

Ok IAP Hive Mind,
I've had several different types of pens (click and twist pens both) that allow the refill to move forward so the user can write just fine but when I move the refill into the storage location by click/twist then the refill hangs up in the nib and sits there until I press on it.

Every pen I hand out or sell has the upgraded Schmitt Easy Flow refill in it. The first thing I try is to swap to a different refill and sometimes that works and sometimes not. The original stock refills usually do not hang up but sometimes they will hang up also.

To me, it seems like the plating on the nib is just a couple thousandths large or something because it has varied across pen styles for me. I realize that it may mean the Schmitt refill is the issue but the larger issue is what happens when the user goes to put a new refill in the pen? They could have the same issue and I don't want that.

I've tried searching the IAP history without a lot of luck. Is there a good method to address this? I've seen discussions but no one seems to have a way to fix it.

Thanks

 

[howsitwork]

If I understand you correctly the refil sticks in the hole?

In this case very slightly reaming or enlarging the hole might work eg use a metal rod to rotate in the hole slightly enlarging it ( lousy description I'm afraid ) , you want to very slightly bell end the hole without damaging the external plating. Sometimes works for me is all I can say

 

[its_virgil]

First, reverse the spring and see if that helps. The spring can often cause the refill to bind and reversing it often solves the problem.
Second, there may be a bit of plating inside the nib cone. Use the proper size drill bit and clear out any plating miscues.
These two have been mu two major reasons for the issue you are having.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[duncsuss]

I don't remember which kit it was, but I had this same problem with some pen nibs a few years ago.

My acid test was to try genuine Parker or Cross refills (depending on which the pen used). If they stuck, I blamed the nib and enlarged the hole slightly using a round rat-tail file. If the genuine refill didn't stick, I blamed the alternate brand refills and didn't use them with those pens.

 

[Curly]

Given that this is happening on several pen kit types it may be the way you press the parts together is crushing the tip a little reducing the hole diameter. If the pen press or vice face is metal it is enough to deform the tip. Try and use wood or plastic between the jaw/anvil and the pen part and see it that makes a difference. If it already has a soft face ............ never mind.

 

[bugradx2]

First, reverse the spring and see if that helps. The spring can often cause the refill to bind and reversing it often solves the problem.
Second, there may be a bit of plating inside the nib cone. Use the proper size drill bit and clear out any plating miscues.
These two have been mu two major reasons for the issue you are having.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

that's interesting, hadn't thought to try that. This post came from a pen I made last night that exhibited the issue. Just tried this and the pen works now. Also did the same with another one I've had trouble with and was 2 for 2. I guess I'll ignore that part of the directions for "proper assembly" in the future if needed.

 

[bugradx2]

I don't remember which kit it was, but I had this same problem with some pen nibs a few years ago.

My acid test was to try genuine Parker or Cross refills (depending on which the pen used). If they stuck, I blamed the nib and enlarged the hole slightly using a round rat-tail file. If the genuine refill didn't stick, I blamed the alternate brand refills and didn't use them with those pens.

I've been debating doing the same. The original refill that come with the components seem to work. I did try Don's trick on reversing the spring and it seems to have done the trick on the two that are the reason for this thread.

 

[bugradx2]

Given that this is happening on several pen kit types it may be the way you press the parts together is crushing the tip a little reducing the hole diameter. If the pen press or vice face is metal it is enough to deform the tip. Try and use wood or plastic between the jaw/anvil and the pen part and see it that makes a difference. If it already has a soft face ............ never mind.

It could completely be the penmaker. That said, I try to use as little force as I can so I don't crack the finish on the blank. My press is a Milescraft and it has a hole on one side to put the nib in so I'm not pressing on the extreme end of the nib but the "middle" of the nib instead. I've debated trying to change from a column shaped hole to a conical one to fully cradle the nib but haven't put too many brain cells into that idea yet.

 

[konoles]

Probably you already know this ... Be absolutely sure the ends of the blank/tube are not only flat but also parallel to each other. You need a sanding jig of some sort to guarantee this. Just having the ends flat is not good enough. If the tip when pressed in is not square and parallel to the rear of the tube (where you press the mech into place) you will be screwing it in at a slight angle and then it may get caught on the hole in the tip (especially if the interior of the hole has a sharp edge from manufacturing) when you retract. When I went to a jig I found online my problems with this stopped.

 

[bugradx2]

Probably you already know this ... Be absolutely sure the ends of the blank/tube are not only flat but also parallel to each other. You need a sanding jig of some sort to guarantee this. Just having the ends flat is not good enough. If the tip when pressed in is not square and parallel to the rear of the tube (where you press the mech into place) you will be screwing it in at a slight angle and then it may get caught on the hole in the tip (especially if the interior of the hole has a sharp edge from manufacturing) when you retract. When I went to a jig I found online my problems with this stopped.

That's a really fantastic point and I had not thought of it. I do use a squaring jig with my disc sander to try and minimize that but I'll definitely be watching for it.

 

[greenacres2]

Don @its_virgil probably nailed it. Good kits come with good springs that are slightly wider at one end than the other. The wide end points toward the nib, skinny end toward the cap. It can be an almost imperceptible difference--if i can't see it, sometimes rolling the spring on the bench will point it out (it'll roll in a slight arc).
earl

 

[bugradx2]

Don @its_virgil probably nailed it. Good kits come with good springs that are slightly wider at one end than the other. The wide end points toward the nib, skinny end toward the cap. It can be an almost imperceptible difference--if i can't see it, sometimes rolling the spring on the bench will point it out (it'll roll in a slight arc).
earl

I know the difference in the ends and small side is supposed to go towards the middle of the refill according to most instructions. I flipped a couple around the wrong way today and they work. Seems counterintutive

 

[ed4copies]

When I made pens (last decade) for retail sale, I always reamed the end of the nib with a .1" (1/10th inch) drill bit. (This only applies to Parker style pens)
May not have been necessary, but it couldn't do any harm.

Ed

 

[SteveG]

When dealing with an issue like this, you want to be sure the "Fix" is universal. If it is to be your own pen, not to worry. But if you sell or gift the pen, you no longer have control over some things (like what brand of refill will be purchased). So you will want the "Fix" to work with all the different refills generally available out there in the market place. This is particularly important for pens to be sold, since you reputation as a competent pen maker is on the line, and you do not want to be dealing with the pen coming back because it does not work properly.