Horrified

[alamocdc]

A few months ago I had 2 requests for Designer pens in figured Cherry (2 different people). They were done about two weeks apart. The first I finished using my Homebrew lacquer based FP, the second with CA. Both guys love them and have been using them as their daily writers. Last week I got a look at the one with the FP and I must say I was a bit surprised by how it looked. The finish was worn to the point that you couldn't tell there had even been one on it... both barrels! Yesterday I got to see the one I finished w/CA and it looked almost identical. The sad part is that neither pen is even in the condition it was prior to me applying the finish!

Here's the kicker... and why I'm so perplexed. About the same time as the first one I made a Padauk pen for another fellow. He too uses his as his daily writer. I see it in his hands and on his desk daily. I've even watched him fondle and play with it while we talk. Okay, get your minds outta the gutter and back to the matter at hand. [] This pen still looks like it did the day I delivered it! Are you ready for this? I'm not... the finish on the Padauk pen is Mylands 3 step Friction Polish! [:0]

Can someone tell me what in blazes is going on here? I use a Jr. Gent FP as my daily writer and have for about 2 months now. Home stabilized Redwood burl, CA finish, and I play with it constantly. It too looks like it did the day I assembled it. Oh yeah, I almost forgot, I made a FP for another guy in Cherry and used my homebrew lacquer friction polish. He uses it daily and I couldn't pry it from his hands. It looks like the other 2 Cherry pens I described. This one was actually the first one I noticed finish wear one.

Sorry for the long post, but at first I thought it might be the finish, but CA shouldn't wear like that. Not in 2 months anyway. Is it the Cherry or am I missing something? Thanks for listening, er, reading!

 

[woodbutcher]

I have read many posts on different finishes and it seems we all have a favorite that will be defended to the death. Well guess what, here comes another opinion. I feel the mylands friction polish recieves a bad rap because of curing issues. Any finish needs to cure before being handled, even c/a. The minium for mylands is 7-10 days. I don't even assemble them prior to that. A dry unstablized blank will dry and cure faster than on that is stabilized. On the other hand stabilized material actually has a finish in it. Another factor is the chemistry of the person handling the pen. I think some people are more caustic than others. Just an opinion, but food for thought. I have made and sold hundreds of pens with no complaints. I'm not saying there are no failures but no one has complained. I have had reorders and the pens I have had an opportunity to examine have been fine. OK folks, I'm ready for the posts that tell me to have my head examined. Anyway I hope this helps someone.

Jim


PS I use mylands, c/a, laquer and TSW a product that Lou sells I try to use different finishes to see if one is better than another.

 

[vick]

Billy,
I started out using a home brew friction polish and it gave an outstanding shine. However after 2 weeks of use the pens looked terrible. I moved to Mylands after that and believe it to be an excellent product. I do not regularly use friction polish on my pens any more but some times I do and Mylands is what I will continue to use for all my friction polish needs.

Moral of this story some times "homebrew" should be kicked out of the house.

 

[woodscavenger]

It may depend partly on how they carry the pen. I was at my local wood store last week and saw a pen that I gave to the sales guy about a month ago. He had given me a stabilized claro walnut blank to test so I made it into a pen for hi. Anyway the finish was pretty rough and the nib plating was terrible. I couldn't figure it out until I saw that he slips his pen in the V opening of his casual shirt where it sits right against his sweaty skin. Now I know why it deteriorated so rapidly.

 

[Tangboy5000]

I think the whole finish issue has many facets that need investigating. I don't believe any finish is perfect for every situation. I believe we should examine how the pen is used, because that is probably the major one. Another thing I have not seen mentioned is the chemical signature of the wood. If the wood is, let's say acidic in nature, more so than other woods, how will that effect the finish over time. These are just ideas I'm throwing out there.

 

[Dario]

I do believe wood plays a big role...maybe someone can compile a wood tabulation and what finish is recommended and what will not work?

Another advantage of using resin/plastic...but I am still a wood pen guy []

 

[Rifleman1776]

Color me confused. [:0] I started out using Myland's sanding sealer and cellulose because of ease of use and fast drying. Then discovered, both here and with experience, that wear factor was very poor. Added Myland's melmine to the mix for improved wear. Can't say I see any improvement. Have resisted using CA because I hate acronymns [] and when it comes to woodworking, I'm kinda a stubborn purist that resists using plastic glue for a finish. Now, I read CA will (sometimes) wear off rapidly also. Have a nearly finished pen on the lathe right now. Used Myland's sanding sealer, waited overnight to 'cure' as some have preached doing. Today will use either the dreaded CA or will buy some Deft spray poly and try that. It's a special blank, don't want to screw it up, maybe shouldn't experiment. I'm goint to take up knitting. [][]

 

[alamocdc]

Went back and did some checking. 3 Cherry pens, 3 different finishes, but they all look the same now... YUCK! (but their users still love them). Anyway, 1 got Mylands, 1 got homebrew lacquer FP and 1 got CA. All of them wore off inside of 2 months. I have not seen this result with any of my other pens that get the same kind of use with any of these finishes, and certainly not CA. Have even been surprised by how well the Mylands is holding up in at least 1 instance. [?][?] Just when i think I've got it figured out... [B)]

 

[wayneis]

Frank I don't think that it would be a good idea to use CA over sanding sealer, not sure just a hunch. I would use a poly though and that I speak from experence because all I use anymore is Enduro water base poly. If the deft has any hardners in it then you should get a good dependable finish but I don't know anything about Deft.

Wayne

 

[alamocdc]

Wayne, I've been using CA over Deft Sanding Sealer and haven't had any problems... except for that 1 Cherry pen.