Honduran Rosewood Burl Jr. Gent

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Bree

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Well here it is... the Jr. Gent I made from burl #1 of the three burl stash I scored last weekend. The pix tell the story. The wood and pen is a natural light shot and the detail are flash PIX shot against some white rabbit fur which washed out.

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:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 

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hewunch

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Aug 5, 2008
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Albany, GA
That is just wrong. Pure T wrong. First you buy the stuff for next to nothin' then you turn out good looking stuff and stick a HUGE piece behind it to make us salivate all over ourselves. Now I am going to have to change shirts.

Good looking work Bree. That is some super nice wood and you did it proud.
 

skywizzard

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Jan 15, 2009
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Canton, GA
Beautiful Bree, one of my favorite combinations of finish/wood. I have a Statesman in my pocket now! Great work.. uh... if you can't use all that beautiful burl, I will be happy to PM my address :)
 

philb

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Sep 1, 2007
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Midlands, United Kingdom.
That is awesome!

I really have to get some of that wood! It seems to have more yellow to it than previous Honduras burl Ive seen on here! Which makes it even better!

Also where did you score one never mind three chunks of that burl from! And why didn't I see it!

Great Work!

PHIL
 

Bree

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Oh I forgot to mention the finish... tung oil and CA... maybe 5 layers. I also hit the naked wood with a small amount of tung and let it sit overnight before starting the Tung/CA process.

MM-12000 and then China White & Carnauba buffs and a coat of Ren Wax.
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 

Bree

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Do you find a difference in how much soaks in? Never tried that yet.

The wood is very hard. So there isn't a lot that soaks in which is actually good. I don't want a lot of oil percolating up to mess up the CA finish. I learned my lesson with that! I destroyed a beautiful Walnut crotchwood pen that went south 5 days after it was finished. Now I take pure tung oil cut it 50/50 with Mineral Spirits and then put in a small amount of Japan Drier to speed the drying.

I use the minimum amount that will coat the wood and pop the grain. Then I always let the tung dry overnight. Now the tung that I use with the CA... that is over the initial coat of CA... that I am probably a bit more liberal with since it is working with the CA versus working with the wood. I still don't use very much.

I just like it because it helps the CA smooth and dry and it keeps the finish from looking like a mirror which is a bit much for my taste. I don't know exactly why it tones down the shine but it seems to work well at softening it just a bit. I buff them up on the Beall triple buffer anyway to get rid of any imperfections. They shine but not too much.
:):):)
 

mywoodshopca

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Charlottetown, PEI Canada, Derby Kansas and Canyon
The wood is very hard. So there isn't a lot that soaks in which is actually good. I don't want a lot of oil percolating up to mess up the CA finish. I learned my lesson with that! I destroyed a beautiful Walnut crotchwood pen that went south 5 days after it was finished. Now I take pure tung oil cut it 50/50 with Mineral Spirits and then put in a small amount of Japan Drier to speed the drying.

I use the minimum amount that will coat the wood and pop the grain. Then I always let the tung dry overnight. Now the tung that I use with the CA... that is over the initial coat of CA... that I am probably a bit more liberal with since it is working with the CA versus working with the wood. I still don't use very much.

I just like it because it helps the CA smooth and dry and it keeps the finish from looking like a mirror which is a bit much for my taste. I don't know exactly why it tones down the shine but it seems to work well at softening it just a bit. I buff them up on the Beall triple buffer anyway to get rid of any imperfections. They shine but not too much.
:):):)


Thanks for the info :)
 

Texatdurango

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Apr 23, 2007
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Show Low, Arizona
I'm with Phil, I think the yellow highlights really make the blank sizzle. Nice job!

.... Now I take pure tung oil cut it 50/50 with Mineral Spirits and then put in a small amount of Japan Drier to speed the drying.....

Have you ever tried naptha instead of mineral spirits and the Japan drier?

Naptha and mineral spirits are almost identical but naptha dries a LOT faster. I use it to cut polyurethane when I hand rub a finish on flatwork.
 

Dai Sensei

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Jan 14, 2009
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Gold Coast Queensland Australia
That is just wrong. Pure T wrong. First you buy the stuff for next to nothin' then you turn out good looking stuff and stick a HUGE piece behind it to make us salivate all over ourselves. Now I am going to have to change shirts.

Good looking work Bree. That is some super nice wood and you did it proud.

I agree

Mind you, it is a beautiful pen :biggrin:
 

Bree

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I'm with Phil, I think the yellow highlights really make the blank sizzle. Nice job!



Have you ever tried naptha instead of mineral spirits and the Japan drier?

Naptha and mineral spirits are almost identical but naptha dries a LOT faster. I use it to cut polyurethane when I hand rub a finish on flatwork.

That is VERY USEFUL info!! Thx! I like Tung Oil a lot. It is my oil of choice but it takes so long to properly dry and anything that speeds it up is much appreciated. I will get some naptha at the hardware store and test it out!

Thx to you and everyone for the nice words. To be honest... I learned my techniques from you guys. It's your pen... I just scored the wood then turned it and finished it the way you guys taught me.
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 
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