HELP!!!!! w/ fine scratches

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dscm1

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It doesn't matter what I turn wood or plastic. Doesn't matter what finis, friction or ca. I still have fine scratches. Does my MM need to be changed, they have seen better days. How do I get rid of them?

On a different note, has anyone ever used the lacquer based friction polish from PSI? If so how well does it work?

Thanks in advance for all your help.
 
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Sand with the grain before moving to the next grit until all of the circular rings are removed. Next grit - sand with lathe on until all longitudinal lines are removed. Then stop lathe and sand lengthwise until all circular rings are removed. Wipe sawdust from blank between each grit. Do not advance grits by more than 50% (e.g. 220 + 50% = 330 at most, so 400 must wait until after 320).
 
I agree with what Stan said!

Next, This is probably not your problem at all, but if you are viewing the pen under fluorescent lighting, you will get reflective lighting in odd ball ways that greatly magnify scratches and make scratches appear where there aren't any. I have fluorescent lighting and live with it. I have a corner with regular lighting that I examine the final finish - or take it outside in daylight.
 
"On a different note, has anyone ever used the lacquer based friction polish from PSI? If so how well does it work?"

Not very well same as the reset. If I am going to friction polish I use Mylands. I like that the best.
 
Ratto and I were trying to resolve the fine scratch issue just the other week. We now have 100% scratchless pens, even under fluorescent lighting or sunlight!

MM to whatever level you want above 4000 (I stop at 4000, he still goes to 12000), then switch to 2 or 3 buffing wheels: (Me) Red Jewelers rouge, white jeweler's rouge, Flitz metal polish; final coat of your favorite car wax. (Ratto) Automotive polishing compound, Automotive swirl remover; final coat with favorite car wax.

I have each wheel on a separate drill-mandrel and I do it with the blank on the lathe but the lathe turned off. Drill in one hand, other hand slowly turning the lathe. Ratto mounted his two wheels to a spare grinder motor he had. Both of us love the ryobi polishing wheels from Home Depot.

Do all this polishing "with the grain" aka from nib to finial. The results: A PERFECT finish. Thanks to Cozee for teaching me this via a tutorial.

GK
ps I purchased the jeweler's rouge at TAP plastics. It is also what I used to polish the scratches out of my acrylic fish tank.
 
Originally posted by leehljp
<br />... Next, This is probably not your problem at all, but if you are viewing the pen under fluorescent lighting, you will get reflective lighting in odd ball ways that greatly magnify scratches and make scratches appear where there aren't any. I have fluorescent lighting and live with it. I have a corner with regular lighting that I examine the final finish - or take it outside in daylight.
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I learned this one the hard way. Drove me nuts, especially with burls, until I started taking the blank outside in the sunlight. Magically 70% of the perceived scratches would disappear in the bright daylight. It was as if the florescent lighting in my garage was being refracted in the wood grain and appeared as scratches in the finish.

Changing my MM also resolved one issue I was having. I kept getting very fine scratches in the finish no matter what I did. I even sanded back down to the wood and refinished, but those ultra fine scratches came back. I picked up some new MM and the scratches were quickly eliminated. The MM didn't look bad but I guess there was something there causing the problem.
 
If you see scratches under any kind of light, you have scratches.

Now, once you get rid of them and you run your rough, dry hands down the pen as you admire your perfect finish... You have them again!!! DAMHIKT [B)][V][:o)]

GK
 
All excellent advice. I use flourscent lighting and never realized, until today, that I was supposed to be having problem. Works for me. An element not mentioned, patience. Finishing is, IMHO, the most critical step in penmaking. For some finishes, I use Turtle Wax scratch remover. Does a fine job. But, with a laquer finish it hasn't been necessary. Keep at it. You asked an important question.
 
Originally posted by mrcook4570
<br />
Originally posted by gketell
<br />If you see scratches under any kind of light, you have scratches.
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I agree. I prefer fluorescent lighting as I can see more detail with them than with incandescent lights.
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I don't fully agree. I think we are talking two different things here. Under some kinds of diffused lighting going every which way, refractions occur on CA pens that can be construed as scratches. That is what some of the references are about and on my post near the beginning of this thread, that was my intention. If anyone wants to bring their perfect pen to visit me in Japan, I will put it under a diffused light here and show scratches on the pen that ain't really there.
And I will put you up for the night, give you a good meal too and show you some of the sights of Toyoto Motor Company! [:D]
 
Thanks for all the help.
I will first try to wash my MM, but will probably end up buying some new. I don't have a buffing wheel so I can't try that idea. Which brings me to another point. I use Hut polish bars and apply them directly to my pens while on the running lathe. Are you suppose to use them on buffing wheels or can you use them this way. Could that be causing the scratches? I don't see them on the unfinished wood, but there again I do have the same problem on my acrylic pens too and do not use a finish.
So I should try sanding with the grain with the lathe off then turn it on and use a circular motion down the length of the pen?
 
Originally posted by dscm1
<br />Thanks for all the help.
...Which brings me to another point. I use Hut polish bars and apply them directly to my pens while on the running lathe.
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Are they the PPP bars?

If so, try NOT using those. use your MM and then finish with some Hut Plastic Ultra Gloss or if you don't have that, use some brasso.
 
I agree with Mark, on acrylic use the MM to the 12000, then use the Novus fine scratch remover, ie #2, then try the Novus #1 polish. I use this on my snake skins and they are perfectly clear. But on wood make your last passes WITH the grain before changing grit and only by 50% otherwise you are not getting rid of the previous scratches, Also you can use DNA after your grain stroke and prior to changing grit. DNA raises the fibers of the wood and allows the next grit to create finer scratches. This has worked for me in the past when I had a stubborn wood. Good luck
 
Originally posted by Charles
<br />.... Also you can use DNA after your grain stroke and prior to changing grit. DNA raises the fibers of the wood and allows the next grit to create finer scratches.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that bit of info. I'll give it a try next time.
 
Thanks for all the help. My last acrylic pen had considerably fewer scratches. Next I will try the plastic polish. One thing I did notice is if I don't hold the pen 3 inches from my face it helps!!! My wife says I too critical of my work, go figure!
 
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