help picking a router for home wireless network

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steeler fan1

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Mar 27, 2010
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I current have a pc with comcast cable internet. I just got and ipad 2 with wifi and want to setup wifi so I can use it for ???? computing I guess! Sorry to be so kriptic:confused:. As you can tell I don't know jack about this.

Questions would be what do I need to be aware of spec wise when buying a router, are there any ptifalls I need to be aware of. Is it something a dumby can install:confused::confused::confused:.

Any and all help would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Carl
 
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Hi Carl:
I have been involved in some way with networking and wireless systems since their inception. Most all of the home routers in today's marketplace are inexpensive, simple to setup and reliable.

I prefer the Linksys Brand. Linksys is owned and made by Cisco Systems. Cisco literally "wrote the book" and the coding used internationally. I have and still own many of their products and they have performed flawlessly. Additionally, Linksys is very prompt about upgrading firmware as new product arise.

A good "all around" home router in the Linksys dual band N models. They can be purchased for about $100.

I hope this helps. If not feel free to PM me for help.
 
Ditto to Andy's comments.

Linksys is the preferred but D-Link and Netgear work well too.

Other issues you may run into with using wireless is signal strength. The farther away from the wireless router you are the worse the signal. This will degrad your through put (read speed). Most people will tell you that they work up to 150 ft away. This is not true. If you have unobstructed view to your wireless router you can usually be farther away but if there are obstructions then the distance decreases. Also it depends on what type of obstruction it is.

For example if you have a 2 story house and you Internet connection is in the basement and that is where you put your router then the top floor could be a little iffy on signal strength, 1st floor will be better and basement the best. But then you need to worry about what side of the house the router is. Again the farther you are away and the more obstructions in the way the worst the signal strength.

What are bad obstructions? In a house sheet metal is the worst, concrete is a strong second, plywood is next and then drywall.

So what do you do? Well when I have installed wireless routers in homes (which I have been doing for more years than I wish to admit), I look to see where the Internet connection is because usually the router will go right next to it. And then I ask the homeowners where they will want to use their wireless devices (phone, laptops, tablets, etc). If the house is a 2 story, I attempt to put the router in the first floor, this gives good coverage on all floors. If it is a ranch style house I usually put the router next to the Internet connection coming into the house.

Then I use a laptop or other device to measure the signal strength in the various places the homeowners want to use their devices. If there is enough strength, usually anything above 50% or half the number of bars, then leave the router where it is. If you do not get a good signal move around the room, this will usually give you a better signal in a part of the room. What is blocking the signal? Usually sheet metal in the wall. Was at one house and had to move the computer desk 2 feet down a wall and got excellent strength as compared to poor (excellent and poor are terms that Windows uses, not sure what Apple products use). Found out that there was a return duct in the wall that was covered up at sometime in the past.

Now that covers the house, what about outside? If you want to use your devices outside then the router really needs to be on the 1st floor, preferably as close to where you are going to use your devices as possible.

Wow that was longer than I expected it to be and there is one more thing that needs to be discussed - security.

Security. to make this post as short as I can I am going to cover this quickly, if anyone wants more info then PM me. Biggest things here is to do 3 things:
1) Change SSID to something other than what is there. It does not have to be complicated, just something other than the default. The default will usually help a person 'hack' your system by telling them what type of device you have.

2) Use a wireless security of some type. Most routers today use WAP or WAP2. This is fine. WEP will work if that is all you have. This needs to be something a little more complicated, it is a password of sorts. DO NOT forget it, you will need to enter it on all your devices that you want to use the wireless router.

3) Change the password on the router and again DO NOT forget it. Most routers have a default user name and password that is easily found out about on the Internet.

So by using the default SSID, which is displayed on any wireless device and not changing your default router password; it is very easy to hack a wireless router. BUT doing the 3 things above will go a LONG way to protect you.

One last thing - if you have done the 3 things above for security you will be as safe as you can get. In fact you are more likely to lose your credit card number at the local restaurant before losing it on your wireless setup.

HTH,
 
I would agree with all of the above with the exception of using WEP. WEP is very antiquated and is a security joke.

Using it will keep a random hobo wandering down the street from using your network, but anyone who is interested in hijacking it can download any number of tools from the internet that will automatically crack it and give them access to your network traffic.

I recommend this router:

http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys...TF8&coliid=I1FKUKK02Q4A54&colid=19R7CE4NVVM03

It is a little older and cheaper, but you can put this firmware on it and have a really solid system:

http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index
 
I will add, make sure you activate WPA (preferred) or WEP encryption on whatever you end up buying. You will need to set up a name for your network and a passcode. The passcode needs to be secure, but you only need to use the passcode when you install a new device. Once installed, the device is automatically recognized.

Read the instructions all the way thru several times before you start.

Many will take exception to this next bit. WRITE the name and passcode down and put it in a secure place like a lock box. The passcode is case sensitive.
 
Thank you everyone, this has been very helpful. I'll head out tomorrow and find a router. Would like to have it setup before Christmas.

Is this site great or what:star:. Couldn't get this info as quicky and accurately as here. You guys are top notch.

Thank you all very, very much:biggrin:.

Merry Christmas one and all.

Carl
 
I agree with everything that Fibonacci says EXCEPT I disagree with his router choice.

Not because it is not a solid router (it is solid, I have a house full of them, they are much cheaper than access points). But Linksys no longer supports this platform and as stated it works well with 3rd party firmware.

BUT, for $50 you are investing in backwards technology. For less than $100, you can buy essentially the same router in a dual band n format that will work twice as fast with the new dual band devices and the n signal reaches significantly farther without modifications or purchasing longer antenna.
 
If you want to save some money, check out the refubished routers. I've used several (new) models from different manufacturers along the way, and am quite happy with my Linksys E1000. I picked it up refurbished for $20, and liked it well enough to buy another just to have as a spare.

Take a look at http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6747454&CatId=2668 (it's up to $25 now, but still a good deal - other models are available too).
 
And for a little additional security through obscurity... turn SSID broadcast OFF. You'll need to enter the SSID when you connect a new device, but if you don't want people to know your network is even there, that's the way. (Assuming you also use encryption, else the SSID can be sniffed...)
 
Another little bit of security that can be accomplished with the Cisco based routers (Cisco, Linksys and a few others) is that you can allow only computers you want on your network simply by Limiting computers to the (Mac)Machine Access Code addresses of your computers.

This along with WPA encryption and invisible SSID makes your router almost bullet proof to local traffic.
 
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I would defend it with a couple of caveats.

1. I have a LOT of devices with custom/3rd party firmware. I am all in favor of adding functionality and fiddling. If you just want to plug something in and have it work, this is not for you.

2. 802.11 G is completely sufficient for my needs. My connection to my ISP is the bottleneck in my connection, not the network rate. My house is small enough that I get plenty of range (esp once the power is boosted by the custom firmware). If I need to do a large file transfer, I will use a flash drive or hardwire the connection.

3. $50 is a lot of money to me. That will buy a whole pile of kits or blanks or other things that I want. As the cheaper router will meet all of my needs, I don't want to spend twice as much money on newer technology that will not give me additional benefits.

Depending on your needs, it might or might not be worth spending the extra money.

I agree with everything that Fibonacci says EXCEPT I disagree with his router choice.

Not because it is not a solid router (it is solid, I have a house full of them, they are much cheaper than access points). But Linksys no longer supports this platform and as stated it works well with 3rd party firmware.

BUT, for $50 you are investing in backwards technology. For less than $100, you can buy essentially the same router in a dual band n format that will work twice as fast with the new dual band devices and the n signal reaches significantly farther without modifications or purchasing longer antenna.
 
All good points, Jason. And as I stated, my disagreement was NOT about the quality of the WRTG series routers. There are probabally more of the old workhorses STILL in the market place than all others combined.

My disagreement was that in my case, (3 outdoor structures 200 - 300 feet in different directions), the G standard was not powerful enough to allow video streaming (very important to us). The cost to "hop up" the WRTs (antenna, extenders, etc) were more than the difference to buy the newer more powerful n300 which worked efficiently right out of the box and came with a 2 year warranty.

Our needs just differ, not our "baseline" opinions.
 
I have a Cisco RV016 dual wan (load balancing) router hooked between 2 different high speed Internet services and my server. Additionally I have 4 Wrt54G Linksys routers (used as access points), 2 Linksys N300 routers ( also used as access points) and 2 Linksys g range extenders.

The oldest piece was put into service in 2003 and all have remained trouble free. And as for range, I can watch wireless TV in my pontoon boat in the lake .

I love Cisco products!
 
All great advice. In a nutshell keep to the name brand routes. In PCs and electronics you get what you pay for. Ive had good luck with Linksys and Netgear.

Whichever you go, be sure to update the firmware if a newer version is available. Also be sure to enable the security, preferably WPA. If no WPA then WEP with a 128bit key. Also don't broadcast your SSID. In essence if it is broadcasting it is saying "Here I am, My name is ...". Also be aware even if broadcasting is turned off many devices like the iPhone can still find it.

Most good routers come with a hardware firewall. Be sure to enable the firewall. Almost forgot. Change the default password on the admin account when you setup the router.

Joe
 
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