Help....HSS or Carbide

[CJWood]

Hello All,

Well as I am diving into this amazing world of turning and I have been bitten hard by the bug. Other projects seem to come second, to turning a pen for a friend or a loved one.

When I first got my lathe and a set of tools, I grabbed a box that I knew were not the best, and wanted them to get me far enough to get adicted. Well I noticed my roughing gouge is looking pretty bad. I have a wet stone I can sharpen but the edge is not straight it looks like it has was chipping or frankly just falling apart.

I would like to start replacing my tools and want some suggestions on a particular brand etc that will give me the quality I am looking for.

 

[ctubbs]

Steve, there are many tool manufacturers and as many ideas of the correct tools to use. Myself, I'm a cheap skate. Most of my tools are carbon steel or HSS. Problem, sharpening. Not long back I made the purchase of a wonder tool called Woodchuck BowlPro by Ken at http://www.woodchuck-tools.com/. This tool is complete amazing and well worth the price. It leaves a finish on the blank that requires very little to no sanding other than MM.
The tool you picture appears to have been a bit hot at one time or the other, possibly dropped. Take your time and grind it back down to good metal without allowing the metal to change color. Use a wet grinder or keep a dish of water close to douse the tool into to keep it cool. Put an edge back as close to the original shape as possible and it should do for a while. It will require a touch up from time to time. Check on UTube for sharpening videos.
Hope this helps a little. On tools, I am no expert. Mine are as bad as anyone's.
Charles

 

[aggromere]

The biggest issue (at least for me) is keeping tools sharp. That applies regardless of the material. The better materials hold an edge longer and require less sharpening. I recently purchased a tormek T3 and am still learning how to use it.

I have several tools that use inserts (like the woodchuck tools). That eliminates the need for sharpening because you can rotate or change the blades. I would get me one or two of those and see how it goes. It is easier and simplier than learning to sharpen this early in the game.

I have difficulty with the woodchuck pen pro (not sure why) but I have an easy finisher that takes a round insert blade and find it to very good for me. I think the round edge tools are easier to use than the square edge, at least for me.

 

[holmqer]

There are many good tool manufacturers (Sorby, Crown, Hamlet, Thompson etc.) any of them would be fine. What I would recommend is deciding what tools you use the most, and getting decent versions of them rather than going nuts and buying lots of expensive tools you will rarely use. When making pens, I use just 2 tools, a spindle roughing gouge and a skew, and could probably get by with just a spindle roughing gouge. When making bowls, I use a 1/2" bowl gouge and a home made pyramid tool. It's only when I start working on all sorts of other turnings that I start fooling with other tools that I only use occasionally.

The whole HSS vs Carbide thing seems to be a matter of taste to me. I have some Carbide tools that I use in specialty situations, but in general prefer bevel rubbing cuts with HSS. Other folks I know prefer Carbide for everything and frankly, all things being equal I am had pressed to say the tool material choice is a deciding factor in the quality of the resulting turning.

Many very experienced prefer HSS probably because they are used to them and getting good results from those tools is second nature to them. Switching to Carbide for them involves some re-learning. For folks new to the craft, I think either path will get them good results as long as they stick to a path and master it.

If you go the HSS route, get a low speed (~1760 RPM) grinder and either make or buy some sharpening jigs like the Wolverine. I have plenty of friends who made their own Wolverine clones using 1" square tube stock and some wood blocks.

 

[soligen]

I second the endorsement of the Woodchuck, but It doesn't do everything, so you will need some other tools too. Which tools will depend on your style, but in addition to the wood chuck I use mostly the skew and parting tool for pens. I dont use gouges hardly at all on pens.

Even an inexpensive HSS set will way outperform carbon steel, so if cost is at issue, go with cheap HSS. I just went to HSS as a Xmas gift, and they not only stay sharper longer, but seem sharper too. PSI and Harbor Freight both have inexpensive sets. If you get the inexpensive set, plan over time to turn your own handles. I went for the harbor freight set to save $, then splurged on a better quality bowl gouge.

Use your old carbon tools to learn how to grind/sharpen, then keep them around. I still pull out they skew to scrape the CA off my centers to I dont dull the HSS or carbide tools.

 

[randyrls]

Steve; Is that a carbon steel (CS) tool? CS tools can have their hardness removed during grinding which is why High Speed Steel (HSS) tools are now the norm for woodturning. The difference is CS tools can be much sharper than HSS but don't hold the edge as long under power turning contitions. HSS can be power ground without losing their hardness.

I believe you are seeing the normal bur on the gouge. After sharpening you should use a rounded stone on the top side of the gouge to remove the bur.

PSI makes very cheap HSS tools, but they are a good value for the money.

 

[KenV]

Until about 20-30 years ago high carbon steel was the standard for woodturning. High speed steel became available and few still use highcarbon steel for other than specialty purposes (hook tool is one of those).

There are a lot of high speed steels and tools on the market with a wide array of prices.

For learning to grind and sharpen, the Harbor freight sets are excellent value. You can make errors, re-do things, try things, and practice for low cost. They are not the best high speed steel but hold a decent edge for turning. Some of the mail order sets like the Bens Best from PSI are similar but a bit more cash flow (look on amazon.com for a better price).

You will need a grinder for high speed steel. One can use a diamond hone but most sharpening stones are a waste of time.

I have a 6 in Roybi here in Tucson that works OK for $40 while I an snobirding. I mounted a Wolverine jig system on it that costs more than the grinder -- but it gets the job done -- It is not the best system but adequate and cost effective.

(Was at Barnes and Noble last night looking at Home Machinist mag -- has a fancy build it yourself lathe tool sharpening jig system article -- nice if you want to take the time and effort).

DO NOT use water to cool high speed steel while sharpening!!!! It causes micro-cracks in the edge and makes bad things happen. High Speed steel is very different from high carbon steel and different techniques apply.

 

[Polarys425]

You could also make your own carbide tools. You buy the cutter and make the handle....

 

[CJWood]

Thank You

Thanks everyone for all your tips. The only tool i have that I know is HSS is my micro spindle master, which I love. The others are Delta tools.

How often do you find yourself sharpening the tools?

 

[Mac]

Thanks everyone for all your tips. The only tool i have that I know is HSS is my micro spindle master, which I love. The others are Delta tools.

How often do you find yourself sharpening the tools?

For those, that like the way a sharp tool produces results that are desired, you can not put a number on it.