HELP blank fused to bit

[artmakersworlds]

Ok, still learning here. My last order included some plastic blanks, lava bright, and a set of Cortona pens with stylus.

First time with plastic blanks for me.
So went to drill one of the blanks. Cut it to size, got it all set up,
drilled fast and easy. About half way I pulled out the bit, pulled off all the shavings, went in again, and ALMOST to the end, the bit seized up inside the blank. It's like the plastic melted and fused with the bit.
It stopped my lathe! I tried to manually turn the bit end in reverse. No way. Took it all off. Put a clamp around the blank, put the drill bit into my home hand drill and again tried reverse. It will not budge. And no hand tool I own will grip the bit tight enough. I don't want to gouge up the bit.

WHAT can I do to remedy this situation????

Yea in hindsight… and lesson learned here, go in and out frequently!
Meanwhile how in blazes do I get the blank OFF my bit, hopefully without ruining one or both pieces?

 

[mbroberg]

Ok, still learning here. My last order included some plastic blanks, lava bright, and a set of Cortona pens with stylus.

First time with plastic blanks for me.
So went to drill one of the blanks. Cut it to size, got it all set up,
drilled fast and easy. About half way I pulled out the bit, pulled off all the shavings, went in again, and ALMOST to the end, the bit seized up inside the blank. It's like the plastic melted and fused with the bit.
It stopped my lathe! I tried to manually turn the bit end in reverse. No way. Took it all off. Put a clamp around the blank, put the drill bit into my home hand drill and again tried reverse. It will not budge. And no hand tool I own will grip the bit tight enough. I don't want to gouge up the bit.

WHAT can I do to remedy this situation????

Yea in hindsight… and lesson learned here, go in and out frequently!
Meanwhile how in blazes do I get the blank OFF my bit, hopefully without ruining one or both pieces?

Heat is NOT your friend, especially when drilling plastic. Go as slow as you can go. Clear the shavings frequently. Spray the inside of the blank with water or DNA each time you clear the bit. Soak a paper towel with DNA and grasp you bit with it to cool it off each time you clear the shavings.

I don't know the best way to get your bit out of your blank. Some say freeze it, others say heat it. I'm sure you will get some good answers.

 

[More4dan]

I've had this happen and was able to work the bit out with grunts and patience. I pulled back with the tail stock while turning the blank back and forth until it gave up the bit. Typically the hole will be oversized when and if you get the bit out. In hind sight I probably should have just cracked it off the bit with a hammer.

I did learn discipline though to back out every 3-4 turns of the tailstock. Fighting to get that bit out for 30 minutes will make sure the lesson is ingrained in your soul. And after the 3rd and 4th time you'll realize you better do it Every Time!!!

Good luck!

P.S. I was able to save several blanks. Also it's a good idea to drill the blank to depth and then cut to length. It saves an occasional blowout.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app

 

[RSQWhite]

One thing you might try grip the bit with vice grips place the blank in a vice. Use a propane torch to slowly heat the drill bit, at the same time try to turn the the bit backwards. Heat is probably what stuck the bit in the first place so maybe heat will un stick it. The blank is probably ruined and too much heat will definitely ruin it. I have removed brass pen tubes that weren't inserted into the blank all the way before the glue set up with a slight variation of this method.


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[artmakersworlds]

Need to get more vice grips. Every set I own right now is in use gripping something somewhere. Need more anyway.
Don't own a torch. Was wondering if hot water, then cold might do it. Which begs the question, how hot can this plastic take? I work with polymer clay a lot and it cures at only 265. Scorches and burns not much hotter than that. Hate to put this thing in boiling water…. yea well, the blank may be a goner. I'll save that for last.

Darn it all. (That's tame. OH the cussin earlier. Shees.)

 

[BeeAMaker]

I had this happen once, second plastic blank I believe.
Now, I keep the RPMs below 15K (usually 700 - 1K) I will do 3 to 4 cranks in then back out, clear the bit, repeat. THe shavings should exit just as fast as you enter - if not then back out and clear the bit. If you hear squealing, clear the bit and slow the RPMs.

I have tried water as a lub, doesn't seem to make a difference to me, Haven't tried DNA, works good for taping aluminum, so makes sence it might work good.

 

[campzeke]

I drill all of my blanks on my drill press and have never had this problem. I drill at about 700 RPM and back the bit out about every 1/4". Now of course having said that I will probably have a problem with the next 20 - 30 blanks I drill. Hope this helps.

 

[Skie_M]

Hard to believe that nobody here mentioned sharpening your bits to keep this from happening frequently.


Put the bit and blank into a container of ice-water to cool it rapidly ... the metal should be nice and cold ...

Then hold just the blank under hot running water (water at the boil only reaches 212 degrees Fahrenheit, so shouldn't be a problem).

If you do these steps properly and quickly enough (without getting hot water on the metal drill bit), then the cooled bit should slip out of the expanding plastic blank fairl easily. If it still seems a bit stuck, then do it again and wrap the bit in a bit of leather or rubber and grip it with pliers or vice-grips, and hold the blank body in a vice as you twist it counterclockwise to remove it.

 

[jttheclockman]

Ok, still learning here. My last order included some plastic blanks, lava bright, and a set of Cortona pens with stylus.

First time with plastic blanks for me.
So went to drill one of the blanks. Cut it to size, got it all set up,
drilled fast and easy. About half way I pulled out the bit, pulled off all the shavings, went in again, and ALMOST to the end, the bit seized up inside the blank. It's like the plastic melted and fused with the bit.
It stopped my lathe! I tried to manually turn the bit end in reverse. No way. Took it all off. Put a clamp around the blank, put the drill bit into my home hand drill and again tried reverse. It will not budge. And no hand tool I own will grip the bit tight enough. I don't want to gouge up the bit.

WHAT can I do to remedy this situation????

Yea in hindsight… and lesson learned here, go in and out frequently!
Meanwhile how in blazes do I get the blank OFF my bit, hopefully without ruining one or both pieces?

Heat is NOT your friend, especially when drilling plastic. Go as slow as you can go. Clear the shavings frequently. Spray the inside of the blank with water or DNA each time you clear the bit. Soak a paper towel with DNA and grasp you bit with it to cool it off each time you clear the shavings.

I don't know the best way to get your bit out of your blank. Some say freeze it, others say heat it. I'm sure you will get some good answers.

Boy did I get a ration of poop when I suggested this a few times here and now I do not even bring it up any more. I do this all the time and have not had anything catch on fire as was suggested over and over and over again. The flash point numbers were brought up. Melting points for metal and plastics, rags and paper towels were brought up. I think the authorities were even notified. :biggrin:

I would put both blank and bit in the freezer and it will break free. It will also break free if you let it cool on its own. May take some wiggling back and forth. It is not for a lack of sharp bit that this happened, it is because of the heat and drilling too fast and too much at one time. Some materials are more prone to this than others. But you are getting another lesson to put in your play book. Good luck.

 

[CREID]

Ok, still learning here. My last order included some plastic blanks, lava bright, and a set of Cortona pens with stylus.

First time with plastic blanks for me.
So went to drill one of the blanks. Cut it to size, got it all set up,
drilled fast and easy. About half way I pulled out the bit, pulled off all the shavings, went in again, and ALMOST to the end, the bit seized up inside the blank. It's like the plastic melted and fused with the bit.
It stopped my lathe! I tried to manually turn the bit end in reverse. No way. Took it all off. Put a clamp around the blank, put the drill bit into my home hand drill and again tried reverse. It will not budge. And no hand tool I own will grip the bit tight enough. I don't want to gouge up the bit.

WHAT can I do to remedy this situation????

Yea in hindsight… and lesson learned here, go in and out frequently!
Meanwhile how in blazes do I get the blank OFF my bit, hopefully without ruining one or both pieces?

Heat is NOT your friend, especially when drilling plastic. Go as slow as you can go. Clear the shavings frequently. Spray the inside of the blank with water or DNA each time you clear the bit. Soak a paper towel with DNA and grasp you bit with it to cool it off each time you clear the shavings.

I don't know the best way to get your bit out of your blank. Some say freeze it, others say heat it. I'm sure you will get some good answers.

Boy did I get a ration of poop when I suggested this a few times here and now I do not even bring it up any more. I do this all the time and have not had anything catch on fire as was suggested over and over and over again. The flash point numbers were brought up. Melting points for metal and plastics, rags and paper towels were brought up. I think the authorities were even notified. :biggrin:

I would put both blank and bit in the freezer and it will break free. It will also break free if you let it cool on its own. May take some wiggling back and forth. It is not for a lack of sharp bit that this happened, it is because of the heat and drilling too fast and too much at one time. Some materials are more prone to this than others. But you are getting another lesson to put in your play book. Good luck.

Ya but JT, it is in the IAP handbook to give you poop. :biggrin:

 

[Edgar]

I don't know how much the blank cost, but I believe that lava bright blanks generally cost about $3-$4. I hate to throw money away, but my time is also valuable. If you can't get it loose in a few minutes using some of these ideas, my suggestion would be to use a hammer to separate it from the bit & keep the pieces for possible casting material down the road.

I know it's frustrating, but IMHO, it just isn't worth a lot of time trying to salvage a relatively inexpensive blank that is easily replaceable. Now if it was a rare or expensive blank, that would be another story.

 

[jttheclockman]

Ok, still learning here. My last order included some plastic blanks, lava bright, and a set of Cortona pens with stylus.

First time with plastic blanks for me.
So went to drill one of the blanks. Cut it to size, got it all set up,
drilled fast and easy. About half way I pulled out the bit, pulled off all the shavings, went in again, and ALMOST to the end, the bit seized up inside the blank. It's like the plastic melted and fused with the bit.
It stopped my lathe! I tried to manually turn the bit end in reverse. No way. Took it all off. Put a clamp around the blank, put the drill bit into my home hand drill and again tried reverse. It will not budge. And no hand tool I own will grip the bit tight enough. I don't want to gouge up the bit.

WHAT can I do to remedy this situation????

Yea in hindsight… and lesson learned here, go in and out frequently!
Meanwhile how in blazes do I get the blank OFF my bit, hopefully without ruining one or both pieces?

Heat is NOT your friend, especially when drilling plastic. Go as slow as you can go. Clear the shavings frequently. Spray the inside of the blank with water or DNA each time you clear the bit. Soak a paper towel with DNA and grasp you bit with it to cool it off each time you clear the shavings.

I don't know the best way to get your bit out of your blank. Some say freeze it, others say heat it. I'm sure you will get some good answers.

Boy did I get a ration of poop when I suggested this a few times here and now I do not even bring it up any more. I do this all the time and have not had anything catch on fire as was suggested over and over and over again. The flash point numbers were brought up. Melting points for metal and plastics, rags and paper towels were brought up. I think the authorities were even notified. :biggrin:

I would put both blank and bit in the freezer and it will break free. It will also break free if you let it cool on its own. May take some wiggling back and forth. It is not for a lack of sharp bit that this happened, it is because of the heat and drilling too fast and too much at one time. Some materials are more prone to this than others. But you are getting another lesson to put in your play book. Good luck.

Ya but JT, it is in the IAP handbook to give you poop. :biggrin:

I know Curt and I am trying to get ahold of that handbook. Like to edit a few pages. :biggrin:

 

[jttheclockman]

I don't know how much the blank cost, but I believe that lava bright blanks generally cost about $3-$4. I hate to throw money away, but my time is also valuable. If you can't get it loose in a few minutes using some of these ideas, my suggestion would be to use a hammer to separate it from the bit & keep the pieces for possible casting material down the road.

I know it's frustrating, but IMHO, it just isn't worth a lot of time trying to salvage a relatively inexpensive blank that is easily replaceable. Now if it was a rare or expensive blank, that would be another story.

It is rare Edgar but I will have to disagree with this thinking. I believe if it is a blank that is not costly, it is the one to try to figure out what can be done to free this bit up so that if it happens on a more expensive blank such as a segmented blank the OP has some sort of idea what to give a try. Just playing devils advocate:devil::devil::devil:

 

[Edgar]

Good point, JT. I'm not suggesting that the OP shouldn't try to free it up, I'm just saying that I wouldn't spend a lot of time on it. I think the more valuable lesson is to understand why it happened & develop techniques to avoid it happening again. Great suggestions have already been offered for that: sharp bit, slow speed, slow feed, no more than 1/4" at a time & keep it cool.

 

[Skie_M]

Ok, still learning here. My last order included some plastic blanks, lava bright, and a set of Cortona pens with stylus.

First time with plastic blanks for me.
So went to drill one of the blanks. Cut it to size, got it all set up,
drilled fast and easy. About half way I pulled out the bit, pulled off all the shavings, went in again, and ALMOST to the end, the bit seized up inside the blank. It's like the plastic melted and fused with the bit.
It stopped my lathe! I tried to manually turn the bit end in reverse. No way. Took it all off. Put a clamp around the blank, put the drill bit into my home hand drill and again tried reverse. It will not budge. And no hand tool I own will grip the bit tight enough. I don't want to gouge up the bit.

WHAT can I do to remedy this situation????

Yea in hindsight… and lesson learned here, go in and out frequently!
Meanwhile how in blazes do I get the blank OFF my bit, hopefully without ruining one or both pieces?

Heat is NOT your friend, especially when drilling plastic. Go as slow as you can go. Clear the shavings frequently. Spray the inside of the blank with water or DNA each time you clear the bit. Soak a paper towel with DNA and grasp you bit with it to cool it off each time you clear the shavings.

I don't know the best way to get your bit out of your blank. Some say freeze it, others say heat it. I'm sure you will get some good answers.

Boy did I get a ration of poop when I suggested this a few times here and now I do not even bring it up any more. I do this all the time and have not had anything catch on fire as was suggested over and over and over again. The flash point numbers were brought up. Melting points for metal and plastics, rags and paper towels were brought up. I think the authorities were even notified. :biggrin:

I would put both blank and bit in the freezer and it will break free. It will also break free if you let it cool on its own. May take some wiggling back and forth. It is not for a lack of sharp bit that this happened, it is because of the heat and drilling too fast and too much at one time. Some materials are more prone to this than others. But you are getting another lesson to put in your play book. Good luck.

Ya but JT, it is in the IAP handbook to give you poop. :biggrin:

I know Curt and I am trying to get ahold of that handbook. Like to edit a few pages. :biggrin:

Seriously, JT ... why would you want everybody to give you MORE POOP??? :rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

 

[cleve]

Bite the bullet , use a nut cracker (mechanic's use these to break rusted on nuts) then break the blank then heat up the drill bit then use a brass wire wheel on your drill and clean up the bit . Move on and learn from your mistakes.

 

[jttheclockman]

Bite the bullet , use a nut cracker (mechanic's use these to break rusted on nuts) then break the blank then heat up the drill bit then use a brass wire wheel on your drill and clean up the bit . Move on and learn from your mistakes.

There would be a lot of people here throwing money away if they do not try to fix their mistakes. Can not hurt anything to give things a try. As I said for a beginner it is a learning experience all around. Unless they are on a strict time schedule then time is money but I am never in a rush. I do not get the throw it away mentality. That sort of the society we live in now throw it away.

 

[Skie_M]

Hmm .. I dunno bout you guys, but I have more than 1 set of drill bits, aside from the specialty sizes required for certain pen kits, like the metric stuff, and even then I have doubles of most of those.

It was always a good idea, for me, to have a spare bit to use before I got my Drill Doctor.

 

[BeeAMaker]

Bite the bullet , use a nut cracker (mechanic's use these to break rusted on nuts) then break the blank then heat up the drill bit then use a brass wire wheel on your drill and clean up the bit . Move on and learn from your mistakes.

There would be a lot of people here throwing money away if they do not try to fix their mistakes. Can not hurt anything to give things a try. As I said for a beginner it is a learning experience all around. Unless they are on a strict time schedule then time is money but I am never in a rush. I do not get the throw it away mentality. That sort of the society we live in now throw it away.

I understand where your coming from, me being a maker I certainly do not like throwing things away. But it all depends on the individuals situation. My time is very valuable to me and in very short supply. If I spend an hour getting a bit unstuck is an hour I could have spent on something else that would net me a profit. Therefore a $3 blank could cost me $50+. If I can quickly save the blank I will, but if it goes beyond 5-10 min I send Mr Stanly Hammer to take care of it. :wink: In some cases, "Throw it away" is a viable suggestion.
(no to mention it is more plastic in the land fill)

The more important aspect of it all is learning after the first time so it does not happen again. I've had it happen only once, and that will be the last time it happens (knock on wood). Therefore only costing me time and/or money just once and is now irrelevant.
:smile-big:

 

[Eldermike]

I had this happen as well. Slow and steady with frequent clean out on acrylic. Heat is never a friend to the blank or the drill bit. I ended up cracking the blank to release the bit but it was trashed in the process.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app

 

[artmakersworlds]

Wow you guys are great. I was thinking about this all night, and decided to try ice, then hot and see. I need to locate (or probably buy a new) vice grip. So later today…

Now… I have to ask. WHAT is DNA you keep talking about. I typed in google DNA as a lubricant and well… I may as well have been looking up porn. Lol. Surely you don't mean THAAAT do you???? hahahaha.

Someone mentioned keeping the bit sharp. This was the very first time it was used. Just got it with the fancy pens I bought. SO doubt it was that. I went too fast, too long and yea… well. Note to self. Don't do THAT again!!!!

 

[BeeAMaker]

Wow you guys are great. I was thinking about this all night, and decided to try ice, then hot and see. I need to locate (or probably buy a new) vice grip. So later today…

Now… I have to ask. WHAT is DNA you keep talking about. I typed in google DNA as a lubricant and well… I may as well have been looking up porn. Lol. Surely you don't mean THAAAT do you???? hahahaha.

Well if your bit is stuck - I guess it's the same thing, you are F.... either way :tongue: LOL

DNA = Denatured Alcohol (Or double helix, depending on your profession)

 

[artmakersworlds]

OMG…. ok, DNA. I never would have used those initials for De Natured Alcohol. (the other stuff I know well actually.)

I can see that as a coolant but doubt it will do any good now.

I'll give the ice/heat a try later. Vice grips… need vice grips.

 

[Edgar]

Here's a link to most of the acronyms & abbreviations that you'll run into around here.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f19/glossary-acronyms-short-names-35262/

 

[artmakersworlds]

OH that's awesome! Got it bookmarked.

Now am I the only person left on the planet who can still type out full words?
WTF? LOL. ROFLMFAO

 

[leehljp]

OH that's awesome! Got it bookmarked.

Now am I the only person left on the planet who can still type out full words?
WTF? LOL. ROFLMFAO

Typically, I write the words out the first time in a sentence or paragraph with the abbreviation/acronym in parentheses immediately after, and then use the abbreviation/acronym any time after that. It helps in bringing people "not on the same page" up to speed. I'm not a "teacher", but I have had tons of experience in bringing team members up to speed. This helps everyone.

 

[jttheclockman]

Bite the bullet , use a nut cracker (mechanic's use these to break rusted on nuts) then break the blank then heat up the drill bit then use a brass wire wheel on your drill and clean up the bit . Move on and learn from your mistakes.

There would be a lot of people here throwing money away if they do not try to fix their mistakes. Can not hurt anything to give things a try. As I said for a beginner it is a learning experience all around. Unless they are on a strict time schedule then time is money but I am never in a rush. I do not get the throw it away mentality. That sort of the society we live in now throw it away.

I understand where your coming from, me being a maker I certainly do not like throwing things away. But it all depends on the individuals situation. My time is very valuable to me and in very short supply. If I spend an hour getting a bit unstuck is an hour I could have spent on something else that would net me a profit. Therefore a $3 blank could cost me $50+. If I can quickly save the blank I will, but if it goes beyond 5-10 min I send Mr Stanly Hammer to take care of it. :wink: In some cases, "Throw it away" is a viable suggestion.
(no to mention it is more plastic in the land fill)

The more important aspect of it all is learning after the first time so it does not happen again. I've had it happen only once, and that will be the last time it happens (knock on wood). Therefore only costing me time and/or money just once and is now irrelevant.
:smile-big:

Man you left yourself open to a whole mess Glenn. First off it will happen again to you. Never say never. Second I feel real sorry for you if every hour of your life has a $$$$ sign attached to it. This will change. I can tell you are a youngin. To me I love challenges. I will be as stubborn as possible to get that bit unstuck if it takes a week to do it. I have no dead lines and will keep it that way. Retired and enjoying life.


If he really does not care about the blank then I suggest put the blank in a vice and put a 1/2" drill motor on the bit and spin it backwards and I bet it comes free. Trying to do it by hand can not get enough torque on it.

 

[duncsuss]

When this happened to me, I chose to leave the drill bit embedded in the acrylic blank and keep the whole thing nearby as a reminder to keep the bit cool when drilling.

I currently use automatic transmission fluid (the red stuff) to lubricate drill bits, taps and dies. I read about it on one of the machinists sites, and it works for me.

 

[Dale Allen]

I'll admit that this happened to me twice. First time I destroyed the blank with a hammer and the bit was fine. Second time I got stubborn and worked until I got it removed.
However, after examining the blank it was obvious the hole was way too big and it was not usable anyway.:frown:
My solution is to use spray olive oil and also cool the bit often using the shop vacuum. Pulling the air across both the bit and blank quickly cools it down.

 

[BeeAMaker]

Man you left yourself open to a whole mess Glenn. First off it will happen again to you.

Your probably right there, but I like to stay positive. Telling my self it won't happen again sure keeps me on my toes to make sure it doesn't. I believe that most accidents happen because someone isn't paying attention.

Second I feel real sorry for you if every hour of your life has a $$$$ sign attached to it. This will change. I can tell you are a youngin.

I stated that my time is very valuable to me, it is your assumption that every hour must have a $$$ attached to it. My comment was just an example. Let me put it in a different perspective. I would much rather be home on time having dinner with my wife, than stuck in my shop because i wasn't paying attention and melted a drill bit into a $3 piece of plastic.

I have about 10 years to retire, so no - I am no spring chicken, but I didn't play marbles with Mosses either.

To me I love challenges. I will be as stubborn as possible to get that bit unstuck if it takes a week to do it. I have no dead lines and will keep it that way. Retired and enjoying life.

It is all about current situations. I'm sure there would be times that I would try to save the blank vs destroying it. It just all depends on the situation at hand - that's all I'm trying to say. The more view points the reader has the better assessment they can make in their specific situation.

 

[artmakersworlds]

Ok, update…
NO it's still not out. BUT I did get a little bit of movement finally. About maybe an 8th of a turn.
Can't get anything down in there. Semi melted plastic ribbons completely filling any voids.

I cooled the whole thing, just outside air, 40s ish. Then poured hot water over the plastic.

Now no motor I own will budge this. Not my drill, not the lathe.
I put tape around the drill bit before the water bath as suggested to keep from gouging up the bit. yea well the vice grip did a dandy job of removing the tape. So much for that idea.
IN fact this vice grip will NOT grip tight enough. Damn bit just spins inside the tool.

SO… I put it back in the drill. Usually hand tightening the key is good enough but I went down on it with pliars. THEN put the vice grip around the nose of the drill. More surface area for it to hold onto. With a few hot water baths I started to see some movement, but I still can't get a full turn, just a little bit of back and forth. So still hopeful I can save my blank.
And even if the resulting hole is too big for my pen, I can still turn it and do something else with it. Maybe a lamp pull or pair of them or something. It's totally useless once I go at it with a hammer.

Also the vice grip I bought is crap. It's going back tomorrow. I walked into Ace hardware and right in front was a clearance table with a vice grip for less than 5 bucks. I should have gone and looked at what else they have. But no, impluse buy there.
Now I know why they were on sale. Cheap garbage. Yea that's going back. I don't need a paperweight.

My neighbor is usually out in his shop late. Just shot him an email. I THINK he might have a good solid table vice. Not sure if it will be able to grab a drill bit tight enough but if he's willing I'll work on it some more tonight.

Boy this is one mistake I don't EVER want to repeat. Maybe next time, besides
1. Slow down
2. Short plunges and come out, CHECK the bit for heat.
3. For longer pen tubes like the one I'm doing, maybe only drill half way in, turn the blank around and go in from the other end. SLOW SLOW SLOW.

 

[jttheclockman]

If he has a vice, put the blank in the vice. Protect the blank so the teeth of the vice does not booger up the blank. What the vice will do is keep the blank from spinning. No need to clamp too tight. Put the drill motor back on the bit and forward and reverse it. (Like rocking a car out of a snow pile) You said there was some movement so it should start to spin. Do not keep the motor stalled it will burn up the motor. I am counting on you Don't make me come down there.


Old thread


www.penturners.org/forum/f14/how-unstick-drill-bit-acrylic-blank-55361/

 

[CREID]

Of course he has a vice. Everybody has at least one. I have many but because this is a family site I can't go into them right now.

 

[BeeAMaker]

Of course he has a vice. Everybody has at least one. I have many but because this is a family site I can't go into them right now.

Cheetos Cheese puffs. :hypnotized:

 

[BeeAMaker]

If you get it out and the hole is too big, just get a pen with a bigger tube and drill it out to that size.

 

[artmakersworlds]

If he has a vice, put the blank in the vice. Protect the blank so the teeth of the vice does not booger up the blank. What the vice will do is keep the blank from spinning. No need to clamp too tight. Put the drill motor back on the bit and forward and reverse it. (Like rocking a car out of a snow pile) You said there was some movement so it should start to spin. Do not keep the motor stalled it will burn up the motor. I am counting on you Don't make me come down there.


Old thread


www.penturners.org/forum/f14/how-unstick-drill-bit-acrylic-blank-55361/

NO you don't understand. I have a CLAMP around the blank. That holds it just fine. NOTHING will grip the smooth round end of the drill bit. Not the drill, not a vice grip. Nothing will turn it either. I finally used the vice grip around the drill itself just to hold it while I manually tried to wiggle the thing. The drill is what's holding onto the bit.

 

[artmakersworlds]

Now…. WOOT WOOT!!!!!! HAPPY DANCE TIME!

<<<<< I GOT IT OUT >>>>>

My neighbor is busy, talking about meeting tomorrow, so every so often I'd get up and go yank at this gizmo a few times. Well after it all cooled from my last hot water attempt, it seemed to twist easier. I finally got it to make one full turn. Then another. Finally!!!!
And oh does it ever smell like burnt plastic. Wow. Fast for turning, SLOW for plastic blank drilling. I won't soon forget this lesson.

So.. next time out there, it's only got less than an inch to go. I'll hit it from the undrilled end. should eliminate the chances of blow out too. Won't know how badly expanded my hole is till next time in the shop. Does't matter. Either get another pen or make something else. I saved the blank though. YEA!

 

[CREID]

Now…. WOOT WOOT!!!!!! HAPPY DANCE TIME!

<<<<< I GOT IT OUT >>>>>

My neighbor is busy, talking about meeting tomorrow, so every so often I'd get up and go yank at this gizmo a few times. Well after it all cooled from my last hot water attempt, it seemed to twist easier. I finally got it to make one full turn. Then another. Finally!!!!
And oh does it ever smell like burnt plastic. Wow. Fast for turning, SLOW for plastic blank drilling. I won't soon forget this lesson.

So.. next time out there, it's only got less than an inch to go. I'll hit it from the undrilled end. should eliminate the chances of blow out too. Won't know how badly expanded my hole is till next time in the shop. Does't matter. Either get another pen or make something else. I saved the blank though. YEA!

Were going to need video of the happy dance.
:biggrin:

 

[artmakersworlds]

 

[1080Wayne]

Drilling from both ends doesn`t always result in an exact meeting of the holes .