Have I messed up a bunch of blanks?

[bikeshooter]

I have almost gotten a bunch of nice spalted oak blanks ready for stabilizing but may have cut them to short. Going to end up at 4 7/8 to 5 inches long. (3/4 square) I'm not a pen maker so I really don't know. Are these to short?

Thanks for your input

 

[Dalecamino]

You might be ok. I like a blank to be 5 1/4" Gives more room for trimming the ends square. I'm wondering why you are stabilizing Oak? That's a hard wood.

 

[bikeshooter]

You might be ok. I like a blank to be 5 1/4" Gives more room for trimming the ends square. I'm wondering why you are stabilizing Oak? That's a hard wood.

It's highly spalted and soft sort of punky.

 

[Kenny Durrant]

I think you OK. Be carful cutting them up to get ready to drill. The straighter you are when preparing to set up to turn the less waste. I can't say it will work for all or most kits but the ones I've turned that would be fine.

 

[bikeshooter]

To be totally honest here's what happened. When preping to cut these to length, I installed a new blade on a small band saw and did not tighten it enough. Result is one or both ends are not square due to blade wander. They are currently 5 1/4" long. Should I re-square the ends before I start stabilizing or just make the buyer aware that the ends are not perfectly square?

Yes, I am embarrassed.

 

[Dalecamino]

My BS does the same thing. It is always nice to have squared ends when purchasing blanks. So that all we have to do is mark centers and drill. But suit yourself.

 

[Talltim]

I always square my blanks to the tube anyway. (Thanks to r herrell's jig). I never trust what looks square to be square. Unless they are way out they should be good. Otherwise call them Sierra shorts


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[gtriever]

Non-square ends? If that's the only thing wrong with them, they're better than most of the blanks I've gotten lately. 4-7/8 to 5 inches in length will be fine for a great majority of pen kits.

 

[bikeshooter]

My BS does the same thing. It is always nice to have squared ends when purchasing blanks. So that all we have to do is mark centers and drill. But suit yourself.

I have a larger bs that I made wooden guides for. I keep a couple of sets on hand soaking in motor oil. No need to leave a gap when installing a new blade and since it isn't metal on metal, next to no heat build up from friction. Need to do that for the small one as well.

 

[bikeshooter]

I always square my blanks to the tube anyway. (Thanks to r herrell's jig). I never trust what looks square to be square. Unless they are way out they should be good. Otherwise call them Sierra shorts


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"Sierra shorts"
How sort of a piece is usable? I'm gonna have some cut offs from this batch.

 

[magpens]

At 4 7/8", they would be perfectly suitable as "pen blanks", IMHO. Go for it !!

If you have any trouble selling, give me a shout and I'll take a few off your hands.

 

[Talltim]

I always square my blanks to the tube anyway. (Thanks to r herrell's jig). I never trust what looks square to be square. Unless they are way out they should be good. Otherwise call them Sierra shorts





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"Sierra shorts"

How sort of a piece is usable? I'm gonna have some cut offs from this batch.

Most would want three inches.


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[magpens]

You don't even need 3 inches for Sierras.

The common Sierra twist (Wall Street, Mesa, etc.) has a tube length of 2.21 inches.
You can easily make TWO of these pens from a blank which is 4 7/8" = 4.875" long

The Sierra click has a tube length of 2.42 inches.
To get two of these would be more tricky, but still possible if you start with a blank that has accurately squared ends and if you cut it with a narrow kerf using, for example, a hacksaw or even a bandsaw.

 

[Dalecamino]

My BS does the same thing. It is always nice to have squared ends when purchasing blanks. So that all we have to do is mark centers and drill. But suit yourself.

I have a larger bs that I made wooden guides for. I keep a couple of sets on hand soaking in motor oil. No need to leave a gap when installing a new blade and since it isn't metal on metal, next to no heat build up from friction. Need to do that for the small one as well.

I'm interested in these wooden guides you speak of. Got a picture?

 

[bikeshooter]

My BS does the same thing. It is always nice to have squared ends when purchasing blanks. So that all we have to do is mark centers and drill. But suit yourself.

I have a larger bs that I made wooden guides for. I keep a couple of sets on hand soaking in motor oil. No need to leave a gap when installing a new blade and since it isn't metal on metal, next to no heat build up from friction. Need to do that for the small one as well.

I'm interested in these wooden guides you speak of. Got a picture?

Have to work tonight but will post some tomorrow. For the small bs just run a hardwood through a planer to match the width(s) needed. Mine has one guide at a 45 degree and the other guide just square. The large needed a groove cut that I used a router to make.

My small bs is a 1960's shopsmith and the large is a 16" vintage walker turner from the late 1940's.

Pics will explain better.

 

[bikeshooter]

Here ya go. As shown installed with a 5/8" blade. I also use a 1" 2tpi blade for light milling. After tracking adjustment, pull the guides rather tight on the blade and turn the pulley by hand to finish the set then tighten the set screws.

The other pic is of a set withe the oil removed - been setting for about a year.

If lube is needed, liquid soap is used. Doesn't harm the wood or any part of the bs.

 

[Dalecamino]

Thanks for the photos and info!