Has anyone tried this for applying CA?

[WildmanJack]

Hi, new to this site. Been turning for about 6 or 7 years. Got really tired of shop tiwels absorbing my ca glue and started looking atriums for substitutes. Found one idea of using zip lock baggies, but then found these thin "foam" sheets they sell at Walmart. It's in the department that sells stuff for kids to do crafts with. Sheets are about 5"x7" and are very thin. No I haven't measured the thickness. Anyway, I have use a paper cutter to make strips about 1 - 1 1/2inches wide or thinner if needed. I find that the foam does not absorb as much glue as shop towels, so it saves me a bit of money, plus it seldom starts smoking like the paper towels do. I can normally get 2 completed pens from one strip cut to about an inch.
Just thought I'd make a suggestion. Please let me know if it works for you.

 

[Kenny Durrant]

Thanks for the information. I'll sure check it out. Do you use it just for CA or polishing as well?

 

[leehljp]

For CA users, It seems to be about 60% who use paper towels of some kind, and about 40% who use alternative applicators as you mentioned. (That is purely my observations and guesstimation!)

Some use the small bags that pen parts come it, put their finger in it and wipe it on. Those are free! the applicators that you mentioned from Walmart - many get theirs from different crafts shops.

To me, the applicators you and others use (other than paper towels) makes the CA go on much smoother, wastes a lot less, and makes it easier to build up thicker coats.

 

[farmer]

From what I heard the white towels make CA dry or set up faster .
I don't do a CA finish anymore , but when I did I used the blue paper shop towels

 

[Twojugs]

I use hobby foam squares. Never tried anything else. Works for me. No leaks onto my fingers, no waste as it all get used. Why would you use absorbent towels?

 

[randyrls]

The "Fun Foam" sheets can be had at most hobby / craft stores and are in sheets 11" x 17". Cut into strips about 3/4" - 1" wide. I apply CA and then let it dry. Tear the end off (AFTER it is dry, Don't Ask!), and continue. I bought 2 sheets a year ago and am down to about half a sheet.

 

[duncsuss]

Yes - craft foam is good for CA application. I've been using it for a few years (but as @farmer notes, paper towels trigger the CA to cure faster so I find I end up using more accelerator.)

 

[mark james]

Hi, new to this site. Been turning for about 6 or 7 years. Got really tired of shop tiwels absorbing my ca glue and started looking atriums for substitutes. Found one idea of using zip lock baggies, but then found these thin "foam" sheets they sell at Walmart. It's in the department that sells stuff for kids to do crafts with. Sheets are about 5"x7" and are very thin. No I haven't measured the thickness. Anyway, I have use a paper cutter to make strips about 1 - 1 1/2inches wide or thinner if needed. I find that the foam does not absorb as much glue as shop towels, so it saves me a bit of money, plus it seldom starts smoking like the paper towels do. I can normally get 2 completed pens from one strip cut to about an inch.
Just thought I'd make a suggestion. Please let me know if it works for you.

Yes, I agree with all.

 

[wouldentu2?]

Have been using craft foam for 10 years. What a difference in the finish and how little material is used. 2mm is the best.

 

[jttheclockman]

Am a blue shop towel user and find Ca to be a minimal expense when comes to pen turning so will keep using what works well for me. I would think if you do alot of wood turned pens the final $$ may show up in the total expense but if selling pens then just add expenses to selling price. I would not use an applicator as a money thing but maybe as an ease of use things. Just saying.

 

[goldendj]

Hi, new to this site. Been turning for about 6 or 7 years. Got really tired of shop tiwels absorbing my ca glue and started looking atriums for substitutes. Found one idea of using zip lock baggies, but then found these thin "foam" sheets they sell at Walmart. It's in the department that sells stuff for kids to do crafts with. Sheets are about 5"x7" and are very thin. No I haven't measured the thickness. Anyway, I have use a paper cutter to make strips about 1 - 1 1/2inches wide or thinner if needed. I find that the foam does not absorb as much glue as shop towels, so it saves me a bit of money, plus it seldom starts smoking like the paper towels do. I can normally get 2 completed pens from one strip cut to about an inch.
Just thought I'd make a suggestion. Please let me know if it works for you.

I just started trying this myself, and I think I like it better than shop towels. I cut mine to about 1/2x1in, have the lathe fairly high, and wipe back & forth rapidly until either feel drag or the shinyness is gone. Since the foam doesn't seem to absorb any CA I can keep using it as long as I keep it off the floor ...

 

[farmer]

I use hobby foam squares. Never tried anything else. Works for me. No leaks onto my fingers, no waste as it all get used. Why would you use absorbent towels?

Because they work
But I don't use CA for a finish anymore

 

[austinsbarnard]

I've been using gun cleaning patches lately. You can get something like 1200 of them on Amazon for about $13-14. I've started using them for both CA application and for polishing. If you double one up, its the perfect size to apply / remove Magic Juice. As other's have mentioned, I use the kit bags on occasion. I've also been known to use just the latex glove that I'm wearing as well - it works fine until it gets too hot.

 

[Painfullyslow]

As a new turner, I really appreciate this thread. I have been using shop towels since that is what I saw on various videos when I was learning.

I have a bunch of that craft foam laying around, I will definitely give it a go on my next pen.

Maybe I wont glue my finger to the towels anymore when using thin CA

 

[mmayo]

I found a source of bulk CA glue so glue is cheap (EZBOND in Laguna, Ca). I use Scott blue paper towels and did not like the buildup of craft foam. I wear gloves and I am quick to remove them sometimes to save my fingers. I only use thin 5 cps and thin 50 cps CA for finishing.

I make a lot of pens, razors, etc. and they sell due to the glossy CA finish.

 

[penicillin]

I have been using craft foam sheets for years. The last time I bought one, I paid under a buck for a 9x12 inch sheet at the local Walmart. I doubt I could find the same thing at the same price today, but it is probably under $2. When you cut a craft foam sheet into small squares for applying CA, it lasts a long time. I use scissors. I don't remember if it was labeled, but I believe the craft foam that I buy is 2 mm thick. That's an "eyeball measurement" from memory.

I like craft foam sheets because they do not soak up CA, so there is less waste. Craft foam sheets make it easy to apply CA finish without wearing gloves and without making a mess. Craft foam sheets make it easier to avoid ripples. Less CA works better. For me, two drops is just right, three drops is a slightly too much. I apply from side to side for a few seconds until it smooths out (no ripples). Stop applying while it is still smooth; before it can get grabby or sticky.

 

[egnald]

Greetings all,

I find this one of those fascinating and useful threads with a lot of varied approaches. As I was just beginning a few years ago I found them to be very interesting and helpful as such repositories present so many options and things to try. Like with many others here, I started with something, then tried something a little different, and so-on until I found a regimen that works good (consistent) for me. Anyhow, here is my experience:

I started using the closed cell craft foams that the original poster talked about. They worked OK for me and exhibited the benefits that have been previously cited. I switched to paper towels because I had trouble applying a thin, even coat of CA which often left me with high and low areas or the occasional ripple type of build up. This required that I sand the CA to get a smooth finish before going to the wet-sanding / polishing pads (MicroMesh). Unfortunately this lead to the dreaded sand-through once in a while -- I hate sand-through!!!

When I switched to paper towels, I started with Viva "Vantage" brand and it lined up very well with my equipment, skills, and abilities. It was very tear resistant, moderately absorbent, and for the most part lint free. All was good until Viva discontinued the "Vantage" product in favor of it's current "Signature Cloth" models. I continue to use the "Signature Cloth" product although it is more absorbent and not as tear resistant as the "Vantage" was. With some tweaks to my regimen I have been successful using it. By far the greatest benefit to me is that it lets me apply very thin and even coats so I can go from application directly to wet-sanding / polishing with MicroMesh -- no more sand-through!

Good luck to all who are still working out a good and consistent regimen for their own finishing.

Dave

PS I still have my strips of closed cell craft foam around. Because they can be compressed slightly, they work great as spacers in the miter track on my saws when I am making cutting jigs and sleds.

 

[RunnerVince]

I've read about the foam for applying CA for a while, but it's never been on my high-priority radar. However, I just finished an order of 110 slimline pens, and no matter what I do using shop towels, I end up getting CA on my fingers. I'm perfectly happy with the resulting finish on my pens, I just want to guard my hands a little better.

I've found nitrile gloves to be basically useless because the glue sticks so quickly, so often after one coat of CA, I either have shop towel stuck to the glove or a fingerless glove. Or worse yet, pieces of glove stuck to my pen.

I normally use the "lunchlady" gloves (I get a pack of 50 from Walmart or WinCo for a few bucks) because the CA doesn't stick to them, but I often have issues because the heat from CA curing literally melts through the glove. So then I have CA and melted plastic stuck to my fingers. Plus those gloves are so baggy that sometimes the glove drags through the glue I'm applying and causes problems with the glossy finish I'm trying to get.

Sure, CA cleans off easy enough with acetone and cotton balls. (Funnily enough, the shop towels are horrible for removing CA with acetone IMO.) But I am dead sick of having to stop working in order to clean off my hands, or trying to work with a buildup of CA on my fingers that makes getting a good finish evey harder. And after 110 pens, my fingers are torn up what with all the glue and an underlying skin condition to boot.

I searched on YouTube, but didn't find anything about using the foam for applying CA. From all of your descriptions, it sounds simple enough, but I'm a very visual learner. Can anyone recommend a good video or tutorial with pictures?

 

[WildmanJack]

Hey folks, so glad some of you are using craft foam. I quit using paper towels quite a few months ago and live it. It allows me to put a very smooth finish on my pens, doesn't absorb the glue which saves me money, and the main thing it keeps glue off my fingers. Today I turned a few pens out of some Wenge, and for the first time used the foam pads on them. It's been a long time since I turned Wenge as i didn't care much for it at first. The finish was great except the wood turned almost black it got so dark.
If you use the blue shop times and like them good on ya, I used them as well. I use them for polishing and whipping off the residue from the ca glue when I used the different grade polishing pads.
Just wanted to say thanks for all the comments. Glad the post was so well accepted. Be safe!

 

[WildmanJack]

I've read about the foam for applying CA for a while, but it's never been on my high-priority radar. However, I just finished an order of 110 slimline pens, and no matter what I do using shop towels, I end up getting CA on my fingers. I'm perfectly happy with the resulting finish on my pens, I just want to guard my hands a little better.

I've found nitrile gloves to be basically useless because the glue sticks so quickly, so often after one coat of CA, I either have shop towel stuck to the glove or a fingerless glove. Or worse yet, pieces of glove stuck to my pen.

I normally use the "lunchlady" gloves (I get a pack of 50 from Walmart or WinCo for a few bucks) because the CA doesn't stick to them, but I often have issues because the heat from CA curing literally melts through the glove. So then I have CA and melted plastic stuck to my fingers. Plus those gloves are so baggy that sometimes the glove drags through the glue I'm applying and causes problems with the glossy finish I'm trying to get.

Sure, CA cleans off easy enough with acetone and cotton balls. (Funnily enough, the shop towels are horrible for removing CA with acetone IMO.) But I am dead sick of having to stop working in order to clean off my hands, or trying to work with a buildup of CA on my fingers that makes getting a good finish evey harder. And after 110 pens, my fingers are torn up what with all the glue and an underlying skin condition to boot.

I searched on YouTube, but didn't find anything about using the foam for applying CA. From all of your descriptions, it sounds simple enough, but I'm a very visual learner. Can anyone recommend a good video or tutorial with pictures?

Hi, I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow 5/21/22 still have some Wenge to turn.
WildmanJack

 

[Hartwell85]

Hi, new to this site. Been turning for about 6 or 7 years. Got really tired of shop tiwels absorbing my ca glue and started looking atriums for substitutes. Found one idea of using zip lock baggies, but then found these thin "foam" sheets they sell at Walmart. It's in the department that sells stuff for kids to do crafts with. Sheets are about 5"x7" and are very thin. No I haven't measured the thickness. Anyway, I have use a paper cutter to make strips about 1 - 1 1/2inches wide or thinner if needed. I find that the foam does not absorb as much glue as shop towels, so it saves me a bit of money, plus it seldom starts smoking like the paper towels do. I can normally get 2 completed pens from one strip cut to about an inch.
Just thought I'd make a suggestion. Please let me know if it works for you.

What is your procedure for applying CA with foam sheets? I used the foam sheet to apply CA but the finish was irregular.

 

[goldendj]

What is your procedure for applying CA with foam sheets? I used the foam sheet to apply CA but the finish was irregular.

I use strips about 1/2in x 1in, gripped between thumb and 2nd finger, index finger supporting free end. Lathe on high, put a drop or two of CA, and rub quickly back & forth 10-15sec or until just before it grabs. Wait for CA to cure, repeat. I still get occasional tiny ridges, but 400 grit gently lengthwise with lathe off if needed leaves ready for micromesh and SPB

 

[penicillin]

What is your procedure for applying CA with foam sheets? I used the foam sheet to apply CA but the finish was irregular.

If the problem is ripples, then my secret is to cut down on CA. For me, two drops of CA on the small craft foam is perfect. Three drops can yield ripples. Remember that with two drops, you have less time before you must stop applying it.

 

[Woodchipper]

I use a square of paper towel about 4x4, folded four times. When I get done, I drop it in a can of water to stop the heat process.

 

[bradh]

CA is different all the time. I mean by that, that CA reacts with catalysts that effect the set speed. Humidity in the air the the main catalyst impacting the drying time. The more humid, the faster the drying. Other catalysts are cellulose (Paper, as in paper towel), cotton, BLO, and accelerator; to list a few.
The material you use to apply the CA is part of your CA process. If you need a faster set then using paper towel and accelerator can speed it up. Need slower set, then pick a material that doesn't impact the set, such as craft foam or plastic bags.
The humidity in your shop will vary thru the year due to weather, heating, A/C and other factors. The speed of your CA set will also change with these factors. You may want to change up the material you use to apply CA to counter these other factors. I will switch between paper towel and blue shop towel during the year depending on what the humidity is like in my shop. I occasionally switch to plastic or foam when the humidity is really high.
I live in the great lakes area and the summer humidity is high. In February, the heating going full bast and the air is very dry. The process that works for you will depend on your shop conditions. What works for me here won't work the same in Florida or central Texas.