H.F. Drill Bit Quality ???

[bruce119]

Well H.F. has there drill sets on sale again. I am thinking about getting another set. I got the Tit. Nit. coated last time but after sharpening not sure if it is worth the extra bucks.

The question .... there is ... M2 HSS $29.00 ... Tit. Nit. coated $42.00 .... Cobalt $99.00 (all 115 set)

I am thinking after sharpening the Tit. Nit. it is just the same as the HSS. Am I correct in thinking this isn't the metal the bits are made from that counts and the Tie. Nit. is just a coating that is ground off after sharpening.

Now if it's the metal is the Cobalt really worth the extra $$. Is that much better metal even after sharpening.

I have a few Norsmans and there is an obvious difference between them and the H.F. But the cost of 115 set of Norsmans ?? That is why I am thinking the H.F. cobalt.

So should I get the cobalt or what are the suggestions and the pros & cons.

Thanks Guys

 

[Daniel]

With all the homework i had to do when I did the drill bit group buy. I will say with a high degree of certainty that the HF Tn bits are simply Tn coated M2 HSS and even at that the coating is not the best quality. once you sharpen them you are looking at the basic Ms HSS set. the coating on the sides of the bit does make some difference though.

I am not certain as to the quality of the HF Cobalt bits but will say it is tempting. Cobalt bits are not cheap.

 

[KenV]

In cutting bits on the lathe, the higher price for the cobalt steel bits comes into play with the difficult to machine materials like cast iron. There are a lot of different high speed steels and the quality control within general grades is widely variable. Also most claims for steel quality in consumer goods is not back up by testing and certifications.

Add to that the very large difference in sharpening by a knowledgable tool and die specialist on tight spec gear and you have some of the bigger differences with the higher end gear --

Using Drill Doctor - go for the high speed steel as it does not have the precision to get the best from higher grade steel. (Drill doctor is better than most home based systems but it is not what the machist pros use -- see messages from Paul Huffman a few years back about tests in the machine shop).

 

[PTownSubbie]

Bruce,

I purchased the HSS set and the Drill Doctor and to me....it is worth the money!!

If your bits get dull....sharpen them. I drill a bunch of corian and they do a good job. I have no complaints. For the money....Well worth it. IMHO.

 

[Paul in OKC]

In cutting bits on the lathe, the higher price for the cobalt steel bits comes into play with the difficult to machine materials like cast iron. There are a lot of different high speed steels and the quality control within general grades is widely variable. Also most claims for steel quality in consumer goods is not back up by testing and certifications.

Add to that the very large difference in sharpening by a knowledgable tool and die specialist on tight spec gear and you have some of the bigger differences with the higher end gear --

Using Drill Doctor - go for the high speed steel as it does not have the precision to get the best from higher grade steel. (Drill doctor is better than most home based systems but it is not what the machist pros use -- see messages from Paul Huffman a few years back about tests in the machine shop).

Don't remember what I said yesterday, let alone then! But, I have sharpened bits for someone that were from HF. Cheap stuff. Don't know if they have an even cheaper set than those. The coating will help, even after grinding it off the flute, still having it on the 'face' and sides of the bit are helpful. Drill Dr., personally wouldn't touch one, but they have obviously been a help to many. Good for wood, sorry for tough steels.

 

[bgray]

For my purposes, I don't have much use for TiN coated. Yes, the coating is gone after the first sharpening. Yes, the TiN on the flutes make a difference, but not much for my purposes.

I use cobalt, as they will last longer, however - here's the downside to cobalt, in my opinion.

It's tough for me to tell visually when they are dull. HSS bits have a definite "look" when they are dull. Yes, I can usually rub the lip on my fingernail and tell, but I can always tell when HSS is dull by looking. Cobalt doesn't give off that dull look.

So sometimes, if I'm having problems, I can't always tell if a quick sharpening is what the solution is with cobalt (95% of the time, that's the solution, however).

So I use both, and haven't really decided which is my favorite yet.

I lean towards cobalt for diameters that I use frequently. I buy them individually. I haven't broken down and bought a large set of cobalt, and don't think that I need to.

And can't beat $30 for a good set of 115 HSS.

 

[Sberger]

I tried some of those crappie drill sharpeners in the past and still have them sitting around. I got a machinest friend to show me how to sharpen bits and it is so easy with a grinder, you will be surprised. Usually a 59 degree angle, give or take, and a little twist on the backside to exit cuttings and your are good. I think it is much tougher on the small diameter bits to get the center point in the center, but practice with quarter to 3/8 inch and those are pretty easy. Just try to keep the same basic angle. Try it you might surprise yourself!

Steve

 

[Dave_M]

One thing I noticed with the HF set I bought is they drill the hole just a nats hair larger than all my other drills.

 

[randyrls]

But the cost of 115 set of Norsmans ?? That is why I am thinking the H.F. cobalt.

So should I get the cobalt or what are the suggestions and the pros & cons.

I would get the Norsemans for your most commonly used drill sizes, and by all means a Drill Doctor to keep whatever bits you have SHARP!

I have a complete set of Cleveland & Latrobe bits and they work well. I got them on special sale from MSC. I remember they were a bit more than $200
But I still sometimes use my old cheapie set of Grizzly bits.

 

[bitshird]

I'm with Randy on the Cleveland & Latrobe but for most of the drilling done on Pen Blanks the HF HSS 2 would be adequate, their Cobalt bits a good but they vary on drill size. some drill over size and some under, not much problem unless you're trying to tap to spec.

 

[JakeAB]

Though I use HF drill bits (for wood, at least), the problems I've had with them are not the material or the coating. I've found that a significant number of them are just not straight.

The price is low enough that I still occasionally buy them, and after a trip to the Drill Doctor they perform adequately. Just be prepared to toss some not-straight bits--my 29 bit sets usually end up being more like 20 bit sets when I'm done.

More recently I've been buying bits one at a time, since I rarely if ever need many of the sizes in a set. That way, the higher cost of better quality bits doesn't hurt as much.

 

[dontheturner]

I'm with Randy on the Cleveland & Latrobe but for most of the drilling done on Pen Blanks the HF HSS 2 would be adequate, their Cobalt bits a good but they vary on drill size. some drill over size and some under, not much problem unless you're trying to tap to spec.

Since I am an Englishman, and do not know what drills you are referring to, Are we talking Lip and Spur types? What about trying English Drills from an Englsh supplier, on Ebay(co.uk) who handles ''Colt'' and will ship worldwide? ''The Turners Workshop'' he has sets, and one-offs. don