Grooves from round carbide cutter

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Woodchipper

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I watched a video by Mark Dreyer and copied his technique of holding the tool, presented at a 45 degree angle. Still get grooves in the blank. Tried moving the tool fast and slow but got no difference. Obviously have to do some sanding to smooth the surface. Any advice is appreciated.
 
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Are you moving the tool with your hands and arms or with your body? Be honest now!

Hands and arms move unsteadily and not always perpendicularly to the blank. Holding the handle firmly against the side of your body is much more steady and consistent.
Also, make sure the contact point of the tool bit is on center.
 
Are you moving the tool with your hands and arms or with your body? Be honest now!

Hands and arms move unsteadily and not always perpendicularly to the blank. Holding the handle firmly against the side of your body is much more steady and consistent.
Also, make sure the contact point of the tool bit is on center.
What he said ! The key, the hands, the arms and the body move as one unit. To steady the amount of pushing being done the key is to have the tool rest parallel with the blanks and rest your fore finger against the rest. No matter what type rest you have you should adapt a feel for this. I use the Robust tool rests now after I switched from the round bar type. I found the finger groove of these is far better for control for me. https://www.thewoodturningstore.com/lathe-accessories/tool-rests/robust-tool-rests/
 
I'm turning sitting on a stool. Try to move as much as possible without falling off. Handle is up against this ol' body. Rest is parallel to the bed. Lathe speed is maximum about 3K. I did rotate the cutter and that helped a bit with a new edge. Will go down the list in a few minutes. Thanks.
 
One more thing is how soft or flexible the material is and if you are using a mandrel with interior support of the blank (if it is hollow for a kitless pen). Using the tool at an angle can give a very clean cut with a light hand, but can also cut grooves easily with too much pressure, as already mentioned above.
 
Carbine cutter manufactures usually define the square or radius cutters as roughers and the round ones as finishers. Now I have never understood this because the round cutters are more akin to a traditional gouge and the square/radius ones are more like a skew. That's how I use them, I rough cut with the round and finish with the square. Finishing with the square eliminates the hills and valleys you ended up with. My last cuts are achieved with the square cutter using a shearing cut resulting in a finish as smooth as any skew, no sanding required.
 
Grooves are usually the result of pressing too hard on the blank as it is turning.

I would try turning the lathe speed up and lowering the pressure.
Fully agree......I do this at the highest RPM with a light angled touch and have no issues. Slow RPM usually leads to more grooves and inconsistances.
 
Ken is spot on with his observation regarding the names given to carbide turning tools.

The square, Rougher, cutter actually finishes better on a pen blank. It acts kind of like a tiny hand plane when moving across a straight spindle, the straight edge shears wood fibers evenly at a uniform depth leaving a flat more glass-like finish that usually permits sanding to start with a much higher grit. They were called roughers by industry because their initial intent anyway was to knock down the corners and irregular areas of a blank. They are much more stable than round cutters to do this job because they resist twisting or catching when hitting uneven edges, so the idea was that they would be used for the roughing phase of turning.

The round, Finisher, cutter actuality roughs in blanks better because round cutters concentrate all of the cutting pressure onto one small, focused area. This lets it dive deeply through wood fibers with less effort making it efficient at hogging out material, i.e. roughing. However, because the cutter is round, every pass essentially cuts a "U-shaped" groove which in actuality makes the surface rougher than a square flat tool. They got the Finisher name because the round cutter can create a more fluid geometry, seamlessly transitioning through curves and coves without sharp corners that would dig into the wood. Since it is better at defining a fluid curved shape manufacturers dubbed it as a Finisher.

Their names certainly are counterintuitive with how many pen turners (such as myself) use them.

For square cutters anyway, industry did try to bridge the gap by making square cutters with radiused corners. This was their attempt to provide the flat, plaining benefit of the square cutter but with the the rounded corners to help eliminate the risk of gouges/catches from their sharp edges. These work very good for making smooth finishing passes to pen blanks (except where there are tight curves or coves of course).

Dave
 
I hate to keep preaching this same stuff but to me lose the carbide cutters when doing your final passes. Believe me round or square they are not long enough. get a good quality skew and learn to use it even if you use it as a planing cut you will see a difference. HSS can be sharpened better than carbide. Carbide is great for getting to a close shape desired. yes turn up the speed also.
 
I hate to keep preaching this same stuff but to me lose the carbide cutters when doing your final passes. Believe me round or square they are not long enough. get a good quality skew and learn to use it even if you use it as a planing cut you will see a difference. HSS can be sharpened better than carbide. Carbide is great for getting to a close shape desired. yes turn up the speed also.
Have all kinds of tools for the final passes. Watched a video earlier. Guy used a round cutter on acrylic and then moved to a 1/2 inch skew for the final turning. As I mentioned, my lathe speed is about 3K rpm.
 
Carbine cutter manufactures usually define the square or radius cutters as roughers and the round ones as finishers. Now I have never understood this because the round cutters are more akin to a traditional gouge and the square/radius ones are more like a skew. That's how I use them, I rough cut with the round and finish with the square. Finishing with the square eliminates the hills and valleys you ended up with. My last cuts are achieved with the square cutter using a shearing cut resulting in a finish as smooth as any skew, no sanding required.
Ken, will give it a try tomorrow morning. Thanks.
I do agree with Ken about why they say the square is roughing and the round is finishing? Seems as though I can take more agressive cuts with the round cutter than I can with the square.
Be very careful using the square insert rotated to an askewed angle on the interior as the corners can catch very easily. I recommend using a square cutter that actually has a slight radius to the nose for that.
 
I rough cut many with carbide and move to a skew for my final cuts. It's easier to pivot along the surface without leaving any grooves.
 
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