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InkyMike

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Jun 28, 2016
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403
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Maple Valley, WA
I started work on a carbide lathe too this evening. Got the head shaped and the hole drilled. Went to tap the 4-40 threads and managed to snap the tap off in the hole. Can't get it out, and need to pick up a new tap.

Hope everyone else had a better new years day

Michael.
 
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Mike

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Joined
Oct 23, 2022
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302
Location
Albuquerque
An old guy I worked with back in the 70s (I am an old guy now) called 2-56 and 4-40 taps "hole plugs". I have done the same thing. They are almost impossible for me to get out once they are broken. I have a friend who removed one for me. It was a 10-32 and was broken by a co-worker in a piece of equipment vital for production, I asked him to wait for me, but he went ahead, and he broke the tap. He was a hack and broke the tap off in a piece of 1/4" thick SS plate. I took it out of the machine and to my friends house and he removed it. Still don't know how he did it. Production was back up in a few hours instead of a couple days.

Mike
 

InkyMike

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Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
403
Location
Maple Valley, WA
For removal - or going forward instead of the #43? I assume a #43 would leave enough material to safely thread and hold the carbide insert?

Thanks!
Michael
I meant that to say #42 - I tried that and it worked great. Had to work out the countersink to get the machine screw to fasten correctly. Next up is to turn a handle

Michael
 

Mike

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Joined
Oct 23, 2022
Messages
302
Location
Albuquerque
I made a few carbide scraper handles from pry bars I got at Harbor Freight for 6 or $7. I am in no way a machinist, and I had a few setbacks too. These pry bars are probably mild steel and I was able to easily cut on the horizontal band saw and remove the plastic handles to give me more length. I believe I was able to make 2 tool shafts from one pry bar. They are not pretty, but are functional. I turned the handles out of scrap maple and cherry I had in the shop. I made one out of cold roll round stock and I think I am going to grind the bottom flat. It rolls too easy and I found out after that you don't need carbide tools to present at an angle. I am going to make a couple more soon.


Mike
 

InkyMike

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
403
Location
Maple Valley, WA
I made a few carbide scraper handles from pry bars I got at Harbor Freight for 6 or $7. I am in no way a machinist, and I had a few setbacks too. These pry bars are probably mild steel and I was able to easily cut on the horizontal band saw and remove the plastic handles to give me more length. I believe I was able to make 2 tool shafts from one pry bar. They are not pretty, but are functional. I turned the handles out of scrap maple and cherry I had in the shop. I made one out of cold roll round stock and I think I am going to grind the bottom flat. It rolls too easy and I found out after that you don't need carbide tools to present at an angle. I am going to make a couple more soon.


Mike
That's a great idea. I made an initial scraper out of some square stock - I jammed it into a large dowel in the interest of being able to use it to make Christmas gifts. I wanted to turn a nicer handle and I'm using steel rod from the orange box store. Being able to angle a little is helpful (to me) when scraping the inside of bowls. We'll see if I get along with the round stock on the tool rest

Michael
 

Mike

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Joined
Oct 23, 2022
Messages
302
Location
Albuquerque
When I made the handles, I turned the front to size to fit a copper pipe fitting, either 5/8 or 3/4", for a ferrule. I then drilled the smallest hole the pry bar stock would fit into. I tested that on scrap. I finished with CA and BLO, then taped the handle cuz I am a messy dork when it comes to gluing or finishing. I used epoxy to fix the shaft in the handle and glue the ferrule on.

Mike
 

InkyMike

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Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
403
Location
Maple Valley, WA
Here we are waiting for the epoxy to dry. The ferrule isn't perfect - didn't get the last couple
Thou turned down far enough and I hammered it down as much as I could. It's from a cherry blank and I finished it with beeswax/mineral oil. It's miles away better than the dowel I throw together before the holidays. I have a few more I'd like to make

Michael
6E49D718-D36E-4B7E-80CC-1786D1CF7848.jpeg
 

egnald

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Jun 9, 2017
Messages
3,135
Location
Columbus, Nebraska, USA
Nice looking tool! I really like the shape of your handle and the accent rings. It sounds like I've gone down the same path as you with broken taps, ferrules, and such. Here is where the "build my own tools" path has taken me so far:

Taps:
I have not broken another tap since someone put me on to Tap Magic. For me it really was like magic. (Previously I used 3-in-One oil and it seemed like I broke a tap almost every time I tried to cut threads).

Drilling:
Instead of drilling I route a dado or half-round hole in two pieces of 1x2 then glue them together which gives me a perfectly centered and straight hole to receive the tool after the handle is turned. (Before that none of my holes were perfectly centered, straight with the axis, or as deep as I would have liked - I hated it! - another side benefit is that 1x2's are usually more readily available and are less expensive than 2x2's).

Ferrule:
I started out using copper pipe, until I came across 3/4-inch Stainless Steel PEX Crimp Ring Sleeves at our local Menards store. They are flared on one end and rolled in on the other end which in my opinion gives them a more "professional" finished look.

Handle Material & Weight:
I have always used Hickory for my handles simply due to price and availability for me. Although Hickory is a fairly heavy wood, I prefer more weight towards the back of my handles, so I glue in a stack of 0.38 caliber lead bullets on the back end to make the handle heavier in my right hand. (Personal Preference).

Tool Material:
I use 3/8-inch mild steel bar stock and 3/8-inch hex rod from McMaster-Carr for the shaft materials. The bar stock is for standard carbide scraping tools and the hex I use for tools that address the work at an angle for more of a shear cut. I wipe some cold gun bluing solution on them to give them more of a black-oxide look, but it turns out kind of blotchy. I still need to work on a better solution.

The Back End:
To address the ugly hole on the back end of the handle where I put the weights in, I first fill it with epoxy, then I apply a printed label covered with a glass cabochon I got from our Hobby Lobby store. It helps me identify the tools when they are in my foam lined pvc pipe tool holders which are attached to the side of my lathe.

For me there is an added level of satisfaction whenever I make something using the tools I have made over those I have bought. I'm sure you will find more gratification when you use yours too. - Dave

PS Here are a couple of pictures that show the ferrule and labels/cabochons on the most recent batch of tools I have made.


IMG_2768 Cropped.jpg

IMG_2769 Cropped.jpg
 

InkyMike

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
403
Location
Maple Valley, WA
Nice looking tool! I really like the shape of your handle and the accent rings. It sounds like I've gone down the same path as you with broken taps, ferrules, and such. Here is where the "build my own tools" path has taken me so far:

Taps:
I have not broken another tap since someone put me on to Tap Magic. For me it really was like magic. (Previously I used 3-in-One oil and it seemed like I broke a tap almost every time I tried to cut threads).

Drilling:
Instead of drilling I route a dado or half-round hole in two pieces of 1x2 then glue them together which gives me a perfectly centered and straight hole to receive the tool after the handle is turned. (Before that none of my holes were perfectly centered, straight with the axis, or as deep as I would have liked - I hated it! - another side benefit is that 1x2's are usually more readily available and are less expensive than 2x2's).

Ferrule:
I started out using copper pipe, until I came across 3/4-inch Stainless Steel PEX Crimp Ring Sleeves at our local Menards store. They are flared on one end and rolled in on the other end which in my opinion gives them a more "professional" finished look.

Handle Material & Weight:
I have always used Hickory for my handles simply due to price and availability for me. Although Hickory is a fairly heavy wood, I prefer more weight towards the back of my handles, so I glue in a stack of 0.38 caliber lead bullets on the back end to make the handle heavier in my right hand. (Personal Preference).

Tool Material:
I use 3/8-inch mild steel bar stock and 3/8-inch hex rod from McMaster-Carr for the shaft materials. The bar stock is for standard carbide scraping tools and the hex I use for tools that address the work at an angle for more of a shear cut. I wipe some cold gun bluing solution on them to give them more of a black-oxide look, but it turns out kind of blotchy. I still need to work on a better solution.

The Back End:
To address the ugly hole on the back end of the handle where I put the weights in, I first fill it with epoxy, then I apply a printed label covered with a glass cabochon I got from our Hobby Lobby store. It helps me identify the tools when they are in my foam lined pvc pipe tool holders which are attached to the side of my lathe.

For me there is an added level of satisfaction whenever I make something using the tools I have made over those I have bought. I'm sure you will find more gratification when you use yours too. - Dave

PS Here are a couple of pictures that show the ferrule and labels/cabochons on the most recent batch of tools I have made.








View attachment 346144
View attachment 346145
Thanks! Yours look very nice as well. I still need to deal with the end / that will be the last bit. I like the idea of added weight in the handle. I've got some lead **** I can use but I'll see how it handles out of the gate first. That glass solution looks great and I can see how handy it would be as a reference.

I thought about cutting my blanks in half and then routing the hole, but I was trying to get this one completed today. I also don't have my router table set up / I could put one together for my palm router. Unfortunately my DeWalt saw doesn't accept dado blades or I'd try that route.

I looked at McMaster but the shipping was way more than I wanted to pay and the local Home Depot had both round and square in stock. I think I'd seen one of your posts where you talked about the hex stock. I may try one of those in the near future.

I made a bunch of gifts for folks over the holidays and it was a combination of the one EasyTool I had along with my thrown together dowel/square stock scraper. As crude as it was it worked really well but I think I like this polished up version a whole lot better. I'll be curious to see how the finish lasts.

I did use tap magic - I've read there are oils that work better, but I do t exactly run a machine shop so it works for me. I did end up drilling a #42 hole and that worked well. The threads seem solid after tapping. I did the counter sink for the machine screw with a dremel. I'll work out a better way the next time around. I may also look for those stainless sleeves. I agree they look a lot more professional

All in all I'm happy with it. I'm going to try and give it a spin tomorrow after the epoxy is fully cured

Michael
 

dogcatcher

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Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
2,361
Location
TX, NM or on the road
I use pieces of 3/4" long 1" PVC pipe for ferrules. I pin the PVC by drilling 4 holes 1/8 and Epoxy in a 1/8" brass or aluminum rod pin.

They look like ivory with gold or silver inlays.
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2006
Messages
8,206
Location
Tellico Plains, Tennessee, USA.
I don't have pictures of my tools right now, but used similar procedure that Michael used... square stock from Lowe's or local hardware, brass or copper fittings for ferules and hickory stock for handles... a friend gave me a supply of hickory billets so I use them for handles.... I don't use the carbides all that much, preferring to work with bowl gouges but they are good scrapers when used properly... (still in learning curve on using them properly.)
 

InkyMike

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
403
Location
Maple Valley, WA
Not a great photo but I went through a box of foreign currency and landed on this as the end piece - it epoxied on nicely and the copper matches the ferrules (it's more centered than it looks in the photo)

Michael.
 

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Velcrodog

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Joined
Feb 5, 2022
Messages
88
Location
Altanta
Not a great photo but I went through a box of foreign currency and landed on this as the end piece - it epoxied on nicely and the copper matches the ferrules (it's more centered than it looks in the photo)

Michael.
Nice. Good idea as I have bunch of furrin currency as well. Be good to utilize them.
 
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