Got My PSI Buffing System

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
dankc908

dankc908

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
576
Location
Council Bluffs, IA
I received my PSI buffing system today and am looking forward to working with it on the next batch of pens. I do have one question. Somebody reviewed this system, on the PSI website and said

"The PSI instructions say to charge the wheels and buff at 3000 RPM, they neglect to tell you to "trim" the wheels. (One video spoke of a special tool - but most just said to use coarse sandpaper on a hard backing.)The recommended speeds for buffing with an 8" wheel ranged from 1200 to 1800. Trimmed the wheels with 80 grit sandpaper on a piece of scrap wood. Fur (or linen or cotton)flying all over the place. Got them reasonably smooth then tried charging them again."

My question is "How necessary is this system and is this the best method"? I want to do this right as it may be the answer to some of my buffing needs. Another question - do I use this same system (tripoli, white diamond, and carnuba) on acrylics or only on wood??

Many thanks in advance!

Dan
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I have the PSI system, although I've modified it to make it into a two wheel system, I don't use carnuba. I use tripoli and white diamond on resins and white diamond only on wood. The tripoli will remove the CA finish a little too quickly for me when I use it on wood. I use the wheels at 1250 RPM, I know the instructions say faster but I feel the centrifical force causes the wheels to feel harder at that speed and it only takes a little too much pressure at 3000 RPM to overheat a blank or strip off the CA.

Before using a new wheel I dress it with a wheel rake http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H4383-Buffing-Wheel-Handle/dp/B0000DD6H1. Occasionally I use the rake on the wheels to clean off all the accumulated buffing compound.

Also I use two 3/4 inch wheels side by side so when I say I've converted it to a two wheel system what I really mean is that I have two sets of two 3/4 X 8 inch wheels. Apply the buffing compound sparingly but often. It does a quick and amazingly good job, it may not be the best, but it is very good.
 
Last edited:
Dan:
I have this system and use the tripoli and white diamond compounds, never wax.

I went to the auto paint store and bought a "spur". This $2 tool (used for removing compound from clogged lamb's wool buffing pads) does a tremendous job of preparing new wheels. Once I charge the wheels, I just use a clean piece of timber to remove excess compound.

I hope this helps.
 
Another question here: I put the system together (pitiful directions here!). There are 2 spacers, 6 washers and 3 nuts. I put mine together as follows: from headstock left: 1 nut, 1 washer, tripoli wheel 1 washer, 1 nut, 1 spacer, 1 washer, white diamond wheel, 1 washer, 1 spacer, 1 washer, carnauba wheel, 1 washer, 1 nut. Is this correct? Also, why does my entire system move towards the headstock when I turn it on? Does anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong?

Thanks In Advance,
Dan
 
Dankc908:

I have a Beall Buffing system that I've used on other woodturning projects. I had trimmed the wheels using 80 grit sandpaper on a board but someone said that particles could be imbedded in the cloth. That would be counterproductive to what you want to do. Try using just a board against the wheels until the strings stop flying. Anyone else have answers?
 
I have the same system, it works great. Here's how I put mine together from headstock:

nut
washer
Tripoli wheel
washer
spacer
washer
white diamond wheel
washer
spacer
washer
wax wheel
washer
nut
nut (locks everythng in place) This is probably where you went wrong.

I never use the wax wheel...just too lazy to take it off and make it a two wheel system.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom