Good wood choices for unfinished pens

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redfishsc

redfishsc

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I'm just asking aroung what woods make a good unfinished pen (ie, only some wax or BLO burnished on).

I know of cocobolo/rosewoods, ebonies, BOW, lignum, teak, snakewood. What other woods are good, oily woods that hold up decently for those that prefer unfinished pens with that "raw wood" feel?
 
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I would say, almost any really HARD wood will do. The oily ones you mentioned have the edge though.

Is applying oil after you are done turning classified as a finish? I think Tung oil is but what about lemon oil, teak oil, etc?

Sorry for the semi-hijack.
 
I would think most of the Aussie burls would hold up well without a "finish".

I can tell you I tried this once with Lignum Vitae, though, and I didn't like the way that one held up.
 
Dario, IMO anything you apply to a pen after sanding would be considered "finish". Some are better choices (CA, lacquer) than others (Hut Crystal coat, wax-only). But if the wood is oily, there isn't a need for a finish to preserve the wood. No, won't be as shiney.

Just be careful about Tung oil and Teak oil.

Most "Tung Oil" isn't tung oil, it's just thinned varnish. Russ has a great discussion on true Tung oil on his page.

Teak oil is B-A-L-O-N-E-Y. It has nothing to do with Teak other than you can wipe it on teak. Might as well call it "oak oil" or "mahogany oil" or "10W-30" because it contains nothing "teak" in it. Some of them are just double-priced mineral oil, or at best they are just a thinned wiping varnish that's overpriced.
 
Redfish said, "Most "Tung Oil" isn't tung oil, it's just thinned varnish. Russ has a great discussion on true Tung oil on his page."

Redfish, I read Russ' treatise on tung oil. And a good thing I did as I was ready to light into him for being incorrect and/or misleading. You are right in that his discussion is excellent. And IMHO and from experience with tung oil, right on the money. Very accurate statements from him.
But, I must criticize your "Most" allegation regarding what is on the market is mislabeled. Tung oils I have seen for sale are either labeled 'pure tung oil' or 'tung oil finish'. Pure is pure, at least that's what we expect from reputable companies. Products labeled 'finish' are, as Russ describes, combinations of tung and other stuff.
I like tung for certain applications. Pens are not one of those IMHO. It is great for gunstocks.
 
Originally posted by redfishsc
<br />Dario, IMO anything you apply to a pen after sanding would be considered "finish". Some are better choices (CA, lacquer) than others (Hut Crystal coat, wax-only). But if the wood is oily, there isn't a need for a finish to preserve the wood. No, won't be as shiney.

Just be careful about Tung oil and Teak oil.

Most "Tung Oil" isn't tung oil, it's just thinned varnish. Russ has a great discussion on true Tung oil on his page.

Teak oil is B-A-L-O-N-E-Y. It has nothing to do with Teak other than you can wipe it on teak. Might as well call it "oak oil" or "mahogany oil" or "10W-30" because it contains nothing "teak" in it. Some of them are just double-priced mineral oil, or at best they are just a thinned wiping varnish that's overpriced.
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Thanks but I think I know my way with this finish thing a little [;)]...I was just inquiring about the terminology/bounds of "no finish".

So technically (from your description) even if the wood is bare and I apply pledge (or lemon oil, or tsw, or RenWax) to it, it is finished?

I tend to disagree (though I may be mistaken).
 
Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />Redfish said, "Most "Tung Oil" isn't tung oil, it's just thinned varnish. Russ has a great discussion on true Tung oil on his page."

Redfish, I read Russ' treatise on tung oil. And a good thing I did as I was ready to light into him for being incorrect and/or misleading. You are right in that his discussion is excellent. And IMHO and from experience with tung oil, right on the money. Very accurate statements from him.
But, I must criticize your "Most" allegation regarding what is on the market is mislabeled. Tung oils I have seen for sale are either labeled 'pure tung oil' or 'tung oil finish'. Pure is pure, at least that's what we expect from reputable companies. Products labeled 'finish' are, as Russ describes, combinations of tung and other stuff.
I like tung for certain applications. Pens are not one of those IMHO. It is great for gunstocks.
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Criticism well recieved. Honestly though, there are a lot of "tung oil finishes" that don't even contain tung oil. For example, if you have a copy of Bob Flexner's book on finishing (see http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-American-Woodworker/dp/0762101911 and $12 is a HECK of a good deal for this very helpful book) he also has a very thorough discussion on these improperly named finishes.
 
Originally posted by Dario


Thanks but I think I know my way with this finish thing a little [;)]...I was just inquiring about the terminology/bounds of "no finish".

So technically (from your description) even if the wood is bare and I apply pledge (or lemon oil, or tsw, or RenWax) to it, it is finished?

I tend to disagree (though I may be mistaken).
Click to expand...

Lol, I wouldn't consider pledge a finish either. tsw or Ren, perhaps since they are a bit more long-lasting. You just have to reapply it. Obviously there's some subjectivity. Bob Flexner's book (in above post) refers to wax as a "finish" albeit he refers to it as the least protective of finishes, which I agree------ he does recommend a healthy coat of wax over a nice film finish like lacquer to enhance water resistance, which doesn't tend to be a huge issue with pens but is very helpful on kitchen tables.
 
From www.dictionary.com:

Finish - 18. the surface coating or texture of wood, metal, etc

So, from that I infer that <u>anything</u> that is put on a pen could be considered a finish.
 
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