Glues

[jttheclockman]

There was a topic that came up and lots of info being thrown around and theories. So thought I would post a few sites that talk about adhesives. Now this adhesive topic has been talked about here numerous times and you can do a search for those if you like. But as most topics here and when it comes to opinions we all have ours and some are passionate about them and that is fine. But not one shoe size fits all. Many many factors come into play when dealing with glues and failures or successes. Just the fact of prepping the joint, clamping if need be, cleaning the surfaces, sanding to add tooth or to smooth, materials being used and their glue surfaces, the operator themselves, and the list goes on. The talk about using higher heat adhesives when dealing with drilling blanks was brought up. Well it maybe a viable avenue but not always the case and not needed for every instance. Most glues that are designed for high tensile strength do not break down until 200 degrees F and above. Most wood glues are around that and will break down more easily due to heat. They are water based. Now I will not go into listing all types of glues and their fact sheets. You can do that and add here if you like. But each glue company will tout their glues as the best and maybe even skew the charts in testing, who knows. Tool companies do this all the time when comparing tools.

Remember though color of adhesive can play a role as well as heat and tensile strength when picking the right adhesive. There are charts on all glues on the market. Comparing one to another can be challenging. This is why I put this here and others can add their favorites.

As mentioned I will add some links for reading about adhesives and their properties. I will include the names of glues that I use for specific things. There is no right or wrong answers here but if you want to include your favorite glues then please do. If you had failures using certain glues maybe tell us your findings. Will mention a few things that are basic rules when using adhesives for any project, always use an adhesive designed for the purpose, do not over heat from drilling or sanding joints or will have chance of adhesion separation, always let adhesive totally cure and not just dry for max strength, do not be in a rush on project.

links'
https://gluefaq.com/best-heat-resistant-glue/
https://toolsgeeks.com/best-plastic-glue/
https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/complete-guide-to-woodworking-glues
https://www.permabond.com/resource-center/category/adhesives/

My glues:

CA-- Satillite City Hot Stuff --- use for finishing and also occassional blank build where there is alot of glue surface
Epoxy--- System3 T88 ---for all blanks for tube and most segmented blanks
epoxy--- JB weld -- for metal to metal
Construction adhesive--- PLmax and also liquid nails for outdoor projects and those that need super holding strength.
wood glues--- Titbond2 and clear for wood to wood

My failues have mostly come when using materials in a segmented blank that have no open grain for adhesives to bind to and the surface is even though sanded to give tooth. This has happened with both CA and even epoxy. But the failures are due to shear pulling and not heat. Never had a failure due to heat. Always need a good clean mating surface as a starting point. Good luck. Happy turning.

 

[monophoto]

Let me add some generalized observations to John's summary:

PVA - best all-round wood glue; open time and cure time depends on formulation (read the label); usually best to clamp joints, but avoid excessive pressure that can squeeze glue out of the joint. Joint surfaces should be free of all glues and finishes. Relatively inexpensive. Will not adhere to wood, plastic or glass. Clean up with water. Longer shelf life than other glues.

Epoxy - good for wood-wood or wood-metal; more resilient to shock than CA. Cure time depends on formulation (read the label). May adhere and cure without clamping. Can be used to reglue furniture joints that have dried out and failed without requiring that the old glue be removed. Joints are generally water-proof. Two components that require mixing so it's messy to use; cleanup with acetone.

CA - good for wood-wood or wood-metal, but because the cured glue is brittle, the joint may fail if subjected to a shock. Fast curing (especially with thinner versions); may be adhere & cure without clamping. Sometimes used as a finish by wood-turners. Fumes can be annoying. Fairly expensive. Will stick to skin (and will adhere skin to skin); cleanup with acetone.

Polyurethane - good for wood-wood, wood-metal or wood-glass. Expands and foams as it cures, so joints must be clamped to prevent movement. Generally not as good as PVA for wood except for special cases involving end-grain where PU may be superior. Joints are more water resistant than PVA. Messy to use; cleanup with acetone.

 

[bmachin]

System Three has an epoxy called MetLWeld that is designed for joining dissimilar materials. It has about a 25% higher lap shear strength (aluminum to aluminum) than T-88. The downside is that it is a medium gray in color and is pretty viscous so would probably not be useful for something like segmenting.

SilverTip MetlWeld

MetlWeld is a super tough epoxy adhesive designed to bond dissimilar materials such as steel to wood.

www.systemthree.com

Just another tool to add to the arsenal

Bill

 

[1080Wayne]

Let me add some generalized observations to John's summary:

PVA - best all-round wood glue; open time and cure time depends on formulation (read the label); usually best to clamp joints, but avoid excessive pressure that can squeeze glue out of the joint. Joint surfaces should be free of all glues and finishes. Relatively inexpensive. Will not adhere to wood, plastic or glass. Clean up with water. Longer shelf life than other glues.

Don`t think this should be there . Agree with everything else .

 

[PatrickR]

Polyurethane - good for wood-wood, wood-metal or wood-glass. Expands and foams as it cures, so joints must be clamped to prevent movement. Generally not as good as PVA for wood except for special cases involving end-grain where PU may be superior. Joints are more water resistant than PVA. Messy to use; cleanup with acetone.

There is a clear non foaming type available.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Fred Bruche]

System3 also has a new epoxy for knife makers that could also be interesting for pen makers. Haven't tried but on my list to try out for kitless in particular.

 

[TonyL]

Thank you JT.

 

[TDahl]

Thank you for the post.

 

[monophoto]

Don`t think this should be there . Agree with everything else .

Whoops - brain cramp.

PVA certainly does adhere to wood.