For pure finish on a pen - what you have will work perfectly. I have been using GluBoost (with John Underhill and Ed Brown) for many years. John and I do a lot of testing for the product line with respect to turning finishes and finish correction. I have tried all the finishes and brands over my 30 year pen making career and simply think this one is the best. It was designed not as a CA but as wood repair and finish correction for the musical instrument / guitar space.
As for your question - with the orange (thin) and blue (pro formula) labels you are ready to go for pen finishing. I do it completely different from John, John does it completely different from Ed but they all come out great. My technique is lathe off blue / pro formula first - to level the small recesses from sanding. Then the orange (thin) as a finish, The difference in product is that I only use 2 of blue and 2 or 3 coats of orange. Check out my video below and it should answer all your questions as to how I apply the finish. One note - the accelerator should be used allow the finish to dry from the inside out. I see many people suggest not using it and just waiting - the issue is the finish is drying from the outside. This is with most CA finishes not just GluBoost.
As for the other colors / lines. These are things to consider if the need arises.
The red (ultra thin) is great for woods that need the finish to wick in. Light punky woods - the red acts as a great stabilizer. It is, as mentioned on the bottle, thin enough to wick into the wood and help obtain a perfect finish. Also great for (as mentioned above) sealing the ends of the piece.
The new teal green ultra thin pro formula is great for scratch repair / finish. I know this will sound silly but I swear it is thinner than water and its wicking ability is great and over a sealed surface the self leveling is great on scratches.
Hope this help and let me know if you have any question.
Here is my technique on YouTube.
YouTube - Mark Dreyer - GluBoost