GluBoost Questions

[montmill]

I've watched the videos and enjoyed reading the discussions on using this product but still have a couple of questions. When using the spray accelerator how does the spray get around on the backside of the blank if you're only using a little spritz? Capillary action? When you wet sand wood don't you have to let it dry completely before putting gluboost on? Along the same lines if I understand correctly some wet sand the final finish on gluboost with micromesh or Zona. Is the gluboost finish stable enough then to deal with the moisture? Do you do that instead of using steel wool? Do you wait some time then before assembling the pen? How long do you wait generally before assembling the pen after the finish is done?

Do you buff the final blank before assembling and if so what do you use? I know with walnut bowls folks skip white diamond because it will get in the pores of the wood. Is it the same with walnut pen blanks?

Appreciate you taking your time and answering my questions.

 

[Brandy]

I will dry sand the naked wood. I do wet sand but only if the blank includes resin. When I use the GluBoost the lathe is running so when I spray it the whole blank is covered because the lathe is spinning so fast. The GluBoost will dry very quickly and I will use micromesh to wet sand the blank right away. I haven't ever waited to assemble and haven't had any issues at this point. I don't buff the blank but only because I don't have a buffing system.

 

[PatrickR]

My proces:
If you are finishing on the lathe spray while its turning, the accelerator will get on all sides.
never wet sand bare wood for a pen. There is no reason. Finish sanding before the CA I do with 360. No reason to go higher, only reason to go lower would be for shaping.
personally I don't wet sand CA. Level it with 360 then 500,1000, 2000, 4000 then polish with novus #3, #2 and a Mcguires, if you prefer buffing do that instead of polish. at this point you should have a smooth fully sealed blank that you can wipe all of the compound off of.
Definitely do all of this before assembly. Wait 24 hrs after the last coat before sanding so that it is fully cured through.
assemble anytime after that.

 

[mg_dreyer]

So here are my comments -

If you were watching my video and I mention a "spritz" simply because I watch too many people who use other brands just use too much accelerator. After a few pens you will know how much to use. If the finish (and this is with ANY brand) cakes up and you need sanding - you used too much. Light steel wool between coats should do it, and you should be able to touch the blank reasonable quick after the shot. Unlike the two above (and their technique looks solid) I generally complete the finish with the lathe off. A friend John Underhill also does a video, as well as Ed Brown and they go lathe on. Either way the spritz should go all the way around. Me - by hand when spraying, the other via the lathe.

The wet sand is confusing. I dry sand through 400 and then the first micro mesh or two. Then apply the finish. Then go as far back in sanding as I need (never lower than 400). I am generally only dealing with the "nibs" so steel wool does a great job. With micromesh finishing you can wet or dry (basically the finish is now acrylic) but when in doubt dry sand. If you wet sand light mist of water on the micromesh - not saturated.

Always consider changing your sanding pattern with each grit - with the grain, then tangential. Then with the grain.

I generally go right to buffing (I have a video out on YouTube on this) on the three wheel. Then assembly - no curing.

As always this is just me and my technique. I have talked with a lot of people about GluBoost and some have some very well thought out regional variances (humidity / cold / hot) - but all seem practical.

If you start using GluBoost - keep this tread open and let us know your journey.

Hope this helps - let me know if there is anything else I can provide on my techniques. I also suggest watching all three videos on YouTube (mine, John, Ed).

 

[NJturner]

Just started using GluBoost instead of my normal CA finish on wood blanks. Have had a bunch of issues - build-up of finish on the ends, really rough finish after last coat, and a few other various issues. I think I got almost all solved by seriously reducing the volume of GluBoost I use on each coat. I am down to a pretty small drop on a foam sheet of both the thin and medium and things look much better. I had always flowed on normal CA, but the GluBoost doesn't seem to like that volume of finish per coat.

Few questions - I am doing 1 coat of thin, 2 coats of medium, then a final coat of thin. I light sand the finish to level it out starting with 600 (dry) go up to 2000 (wet) then switch to two different liquid polishes and then buff with blue stick on wheel then dry buff (Barry Gross 2 wheel Buffing System). Finish seems to come nice. Does this sound like the best for a durable, shiny finish? Do I need to let the finish cure for 24 hours before starting the sanding/polishing sequence? Last, does anyone wax the pen as a last protective coat after the finish buffing? Appreciate comments ....

 

[penicillin]

When I am done turning and ready for sanding, here are the steps that I follow:

• Replace the metal bushings with the plastic no-stick ones. I do that to avoid sanding a metal bushing accidentally, which can bring in metal shavings and darken the wood.
• Sand with 150, 240, 320, 400, and 600 grit sandpaper. Rockler and Woodcraft and others sell a convenient sanding kit and dispenser for that. Be very careful sanding. Avoid sanding beyond the edge and rounding it off - you invested a lot of work to match the bushing the way you wanted it.
  • Sand with the lathe turning slowly. Sometimes speed can help, but be careful!
  • Stop the lathe and sand along the grain (the long ways) to remove sanding rings.
  • Wipe the blanks with a clean cloth after each grit to avoid leaving abrasive particles that might scratch.
• Vacuum the blanks, lathe bed, etc. to get all the sawdust and sanding grit out of the area.
• Cover the lathe bed to protect it from finish and water. Be sure the cover cannot be snagged or sucked into the rotating lathe. I use a grocery bag with scrap wood to weigh it down.
• Apply two or three layers of GluBoost regular (medium).
  • Run the lathe at a very slow speed.
  • I use thin pieces of craft foam to apply it along the rotating pen blank. A 9x12 inch sheet of 2 mm craft foam sold for less than a $1 at Walmart before the pandemic. It lasts a long time - you cut small pieces from it.
  • Between layers, spray a fine mist of GluBoost accelerator from a distance, say 12 inches or more.
  • Wait a minute or two for the GluBoost to cure before proceeding.
• Apply two layers of GluBoost thin, as above.
• Wait a few minutes for the GluBoost to cure.
• Put all nine Micro-mesh pads in a cup of water.
• Sand gently with each wet Micro-mesh pad in turn:
  • Sand with the lathe turning slowly.
  • Do not spend much time on any one pad, especially the "course" grit ones. Quick and done!
  • Stop the lathe and sand with the Micro-mesh pad "along the grain" - the long ways of the pen. Rotate the pen by hand and remove any sanding rings. Again - quick and done.
  • Use a tiny cloth to wipe the grit off the pen blank on the stopped lathe after each Micro-mesh grit.
  • NOTE: If you want a "matte" finish, stop at the desired grit (maybe the fourth Micro-mesh pad in the series). Don't use all nine pads.
• OPTIONAL: Sometimes I apply Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish. I haven't decided whether it makes enough difference to matter.

I hope this helps.