Getting a haze

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vick

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Nov 16, 2004
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1,447
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Gilbert, AZ, USA.
If you DNA is older it may have accumulated water from the air which could cause the problem. If you list your finishing routing I am sure we can find the problem.
 

cd18524

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Nov 23, 2005
Messages
312
Location
Homewood, IL, USA.
My problem was putting my CA on to thick with a textured glove and then having to sand way to much to get a smooth surface. I think all of the sanding caused my problems. I would sand through in certain areas and just get some areas ridge free. I learned to put light applications of CA on and I turned my latex gloves inside out and found a super smooth applicator. Now I can put on the CA and only have to MM to a great finish.

Chris
 

emtmike

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Jan 21, 2006
Messages
269
Location
bucksport, maine, USA.
OK First
- I turn to what I want.
- I then sand 60,100,120,220,360,400.
- I then turn lathe speed down and drip CA on the blank with 360g sand paper using the stuff on the lathe from turning to fill the voids.
- I then up the speed and sand with 220, 360,400, and then MM
- I then slow the speed and use a paper towel to smooth a thin layer of CA and let it air dry
- Up the speed and sand with 360, 400 and then MM
- I then use RW to finish
 

gerryr

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Sep 22, 2005
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Billings, MT, USA.
I looks like you're really only putting on one coat of CA, is it thick or thin? I think your problem is that you're sanding the CA off in places, that's the most common cause of the hazing, I think. Trying following Fangar's directions and put on more coats of CA. I bet that will take care of it.
 

Lioncourt

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Jan 16, 2006
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.
I have a similar problem but mine is hazy patches and with a particular kind of wood(vasticola burl). I use fangars method and i've even tried adding ectra layers of thick ca and I still get hazed spots, usually around "defects" in the wood like burl swirls. Not sure if it has to do with the wood or what. I need to get a buffing wheel and see if I can plastic polish it a bit. The other Issue i just had with Zebra wood was a dull finish. It polished up nice on the lathe but after assembly and a little handling it's dulled to a satin finish. Not sure whats going wrong, think I might do some tests on pine and see what happens.
 

RussFairfield

Passed Away 2011
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Feb 10, 2004
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Location
Post Falls, Idaho.
Is it really a cloudy discoloration of the CA or is it a loss of the glossy surface.

I have had CA cloud for only 2 reasons. One was when the wood wasn't as dry as I though it was. The cloudy appearance is the same thing as blushing in a lacquer finish, condensed moisture in the underside of the finish.

The easiest way to tell if the wood is dry is to grab as many of the drill shavings as you can and squeeze them in your hand. If they feel warm and moist, the inside of the wood isn't dry.

The other is from wax or something else that was put on the wood as an aid to sanding. One of those something elses can be the stearates that are used to lubricate the white Aluminum Oxide sandpaper or as an ingredient in sanding sealers. It could cause adhesion problem, and have the appearance of a cloudy finish.

Loss of gloss is from handling the finish before it has had a chance to cool to room temperature. CA glue is softened by heat, and does require some time to fully cure. Handling it hot off the mandrel is not a good habit. At least wait until it has cooled. A hour would be better.

Other than those 3 things I have never experienced what you describe, and have no other explanations.
 

wudwrkr

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Joined
Nov 19, 2005
Messages
545
Location
Newark, CA, USA.
Russ, I appreciate your insight to problems with a CA finish. I too have experienced what I would call a "blotchy" finish on some woods when using the Fangar's BLO/CA method. Mostly these are stablized or oily woods. I've stopped using CA on stablized woods and go straight to White diamond after MM and finish up with TSW. I've got a Bois de Rose pen that I've refinished a couple times and getting ready to sand it all away and use a friction polish!

For everything else, its an awesome finish. [8D]
 

RussFairfield

Passed Away 2011
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Feb 10, 2004
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Location
Post Falls, Idaho.
This might be seen as a gloat, but I have both heat and air in my shop. It never gets below 60 in the winter or over 75 in the summer. I often forget that I used to have a lot problems with finishes in cold, hot, and high humidity.

Cold shops and the wet weather in the spring are killers for most finishes.

My high school shop teacher had a rule that went something like: If you need an unbrella, a coat, or a handkerchief (to wipe away the sweat), you shouldn't be opening a can of finish.
 

Lioncourt

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Jan 16, 2006
Messages
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Location
.
My problem might be from the unstabilized(moist) wood. I got a lot of 4 block and 1 split down the middle sitting on my desk. Hadn't considered that. Thanks.
 

TomServo

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Oct 13, 2005
Messages
432
Location
Grand Forks, ND, USA.
Russ: I've found that using CA with high (or very high) humidity is a big problem - it'll blush/cloud almost immediately (except "odorless"). I'm buying some enduro.... I've had almost zero success with CA finishes in my apartment - I have an aquarium and it's just too humid here in general - we get 75% humidity when it's -40F outside.
 
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