Gel Polyurethane

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I'm wondering two things. Does anyone reading this use, or has used, Gel Poly? I've used it in the distant past with good results on turned items but I can't remember the brand. I see on Amazon they have a Gel Poly by "Old Masters". Does anyone know of this product, use it and can give me honest feed back? Thanks for your help and input- Tom
 
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MDWine

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Mar 22, 2005
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Manassas Park, Virginia, USA.
I used the Gel Poly on some flat work. It went on easily, with some waste (excess that I had to remove as I leveled it out).

I put on two coats with some 0000 wool polishing in between.

These were shelves, and are now under 30 or 40 pounds of jewelry beads my wife uses.

The finish is easy to do, and seemed to be fairly "sturdy".

I have made the mental note that when I do more flat work, I will probably use the gel poly as the finish. I have no experience with putting it on a pen, but my first thought would be that swirls will be really easy to create.

I think I would put the poly on a stationary blank (not turning), steel wool a bit between 3 or 4 or 5 coats. I think it is definitely worth a try.

My guess is that once one begins "the trial", a fair and victorious finish process can be developed. If you go for it (which I would advise), let us know how it goes. I won't be in position to try until my 'honey-dos' are done!
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
Messages
3,032
Location
Wolf Creek Montana
I used the Gel Poly on some flat work. It went on easily, with some waste (excess that I had to remove as I leveled it out).

I put on two coats with some 0000 wool polishing in between.

These were shelves, and are now under 30 or 40 pounds of jewelry beads my wife uses.

The finish is easy to do, and seemed to be fairly "sturdy".

I have made the mental note that when I do more flat work, I will probably use the gel poly as the finish. I have no experience with putting it on a pen, but my first thought would be that swirls will be really easy to create.

I think I would put the poly on a stationary blank (not turning), steel wool a bit between 3 or 4 or 5 coats. I think it is definitely worth a try.

My guess is that once one begins "the trial", a fair and victorious finish process can be developed. If you go for it (which I would advise), let us know how it goes. I won't be in position to try until my 'honey-dos' are done!

Thanks Michael. Like you, my honey-do list is about to start. We're finally warming up and the snow is starting to melt off. It's been so long since I used the gel poly that I forgot the process I used. I do remember that it turned out nice but did take some "extra" work on the final steps. This is going to be used for ice cream scoops on Koa handles. I for sure let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for your input- Tom
 

Wildman

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Jan 12, 2008
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1,390
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Jacksonville, NC, USA.
Have never used gel poly and have some reservations about using the stuff. Big turn off for me is price per quart and slow recoat times. Only brands looked at were General & Old Masters. Definitely have to read directionw before use. General Gel can be thinned, Old Masters recommends you don't. Both recommend two or three coats and agree if add more than that will end up with very soft finish.

While no problem recommending for use on flat work would definitely not use on a pen for reasons already stated.
 

penicillin

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Feb 27, 2019
Messages
1,036
I learned a trick from this website concerning pen finishes:

After you rough the pen blank to round, try a finish on it. If you like it, write down the finish instructions so you remember what you did. If you don't like it, use your turning tools to take it off and add it on your "bad finish" list and write a note about what didn't work. Try a different finish. See how you like that.

Keep trying finishes and taking them off until you find what you like. If you run out of pen blank, then its time to turn the actual pen.

Choose the finish you like best.
 
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