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jogregmon

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What do you use for your final cut; skew or gouge and what grit do you start out on. Granted some wood start off smoother than others but in general were do you all start. Since most of my lathe habits are self taught just wondering what everyone else does.
 
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It depends on the wood sometimes but my final cut is typically with a skew. Regardless I usually start sanding with good 400 grit. It is extremely rare that I start with less than 400 actually.
 
As I use a skew for just about everything it is usually my last cut tool. The grit of the sandpaper I start with usually depends upon how much control I showed with my skew but generally nothing coarser than 220.

I have used coarser sandpaper when I couldn't make either the tool or the wood behave (or was worried about blowing up a segmented blank) but that's rare. Remember this is an art form not a science!![:0]
 
I use gouge to begin with and pull out the skew once the blank is rounded. Skew may come out sooner on woods that tend to tear out.

Depending on the wood I usually start with 320 grit.

Just last week I was dealing with a driftwood (unknown wood...thanks PETE!!!) that won't stop tearing out even with light cuts with sharp skew. I almost gave up but the wood is irreplaceable...it was picked up by my girlfriend at the beach of Nasaau, Bahamas while on a date.

I broke down for the 2nd time since I started turning and brought the 120 grit sandpaper. It took a while but that baby finished alright.

So there is no definite short answer...it all depends.



PS. That girlfriend is now my commander [}:)] LOL.
 
Skew on the final cut.

I round with 3/4 roughing gouge then switch to the skew when I get closer to size.

I start sanding with anywhere from 220 to 400 depending on how well it turned. Anything coarser than 220 is a grit gouge not sandpaper[:0]. I hate to admit it but I will use the grit gouge sometimes for final shaping on the bottom of closed end pens. I spend a lot of time making my segmented blanks and have killed quite a few trying to get that perfect shape on the bottom with a skew or beading tool.
 
Like everyone else, it depends on the material and how it behaves and whether or not I'm doing a good job. For wood, except most burls, I start and end with a skew, yup, I rough the wood round with a skew. For acrylics and antler, I use a 1" round nose scraper, start to finish. I can often start sanding at 400, but probably 2/3 of the time I start at 320. If I have a really difficult piece of wood, I may have to stop sooner and get out the 120 grit.
 
Usually start w/ 1/2" gouge, most of rest w/ 1 1/4" skew, finish with 1/2" skew. First sand is 220, then 320 then all grits MM through 12000, then after finish final three grits of MM then lastly a piece of wool blanket.
 
I round the blank with a huge bowl gouge I got in a trade for soem Micro Mesh. the weight is great for when those corners are banging away at the tool. I will shape and make my finish cut with either a 1/2 inch spindle gouge or skew depending on how the wood is cutting that day. (Notice it's not my fault).
I usually shoot for starting with 320 grit. most of my pens could be started at that with no problem. some of the woods I will start with 220 just to make enough dust for my ca fill step in my finish.
 
I use my skew for almost everything. I keep reading about folks having problems with acrylics chipping with a skew, but either I'm not using the skew like it should be, or I've been very lucky. So far (knock on wood) I've only messed up one blank with a catch.

Guess I'm just a lucky newbie !! [:D]
 
Gouge for the majority of the turning, using a skew for the last 1/16" or so and normally start with 400 grit sandpaper. On some of the more coarser woods I sometimes start with a 320 or 280.
 
I must be a freak or something...

I use a bowl gouge (much like others) to get it round, then either a spindle gouge or a skew to almost finish it (depending on what is sharp - yes, I am that lazy). Then I always finish up with a skew at the end.

However, on wood I start with 80 grit (but only for about 3 seconds) then 120 etc... to 1200 before EEE. With plastic I start with 100 grit (I think??).

Why start with high grits? Because it becomes a rhythm for me. I get used to the way of finishing and going to a coarse grit paper doesn't really take any time, but does highlight ANY flaws that might be there. It is more about scoring the piece than removing much material.

I can certainly understand why people only use the medium grits to start, but I find my way is more consistent.

Just so you know, I have finished various pieces on the lathe (not pens) to an adequate finished state with the skew alone before, so it is not because I am getting a poor finish. I think it must be more that I am nuts. [;)]

Cam
 
Cameron, I started at 80 or 100 once, but it took forever to get the sanding marks out. My skew leaves them more smooth. Everyone develops their own style that works for them, so if it works for you, that's fantastic.
 
I use the skew start to finish. Not sure my methods are correct but it works for me and I find it easier to sharpen the skew. On difficult woods or acrylics I'll rough round the blanks on my disc sander or the router table with a large roundoff bit. Helps to hold the blank with a clamp, easier on the fingers.
 
You guys are making me feel bad. You are giving me an inferiority complex. I have never been able to start sanding with 400-grit in my life. It would take me half a day and 3 sheets of sandpaper if I were to start at 400-grit.

I think I need more practice.
 
I use a 1.5" skew on pens from start to almost done. I change to a 3/4 " and finish the pen. Sanding starts at 180 to 600 them MM. Length wise sanding and cleaning of the blank after each grit.

Guess you need a little more practice, Russ[:D]! I hope you catch on soon.[;)]

Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by jogregmon
<br />What do you use for your final cut; skew or gouge and what grit do you start out on. Granted some wood start off smoother than others but in general were do you all start. Since most of my lathe habits are self taught just wondering what everyone else does.
Click to expand...
 
cameron: I agree, but i start at P150 (equivalent to whatever real grit) - the "trick" to eliminate the sanding marks is to use the rough grits with the grain. I go 150 220 then use scotch brite (green, maroon, grey, white) and get a 6000MM-like polish.. then i go MM from 3200-12000
 
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