Friction Polish

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Snorton20

Snorton20

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2008
Messages
188
Location
fredericksburg, va, USA.
I use Mylands high gloss friction polish which was recommended by someone at a local woodcraft. I was questioning if this stuff is really that good of a finish. I did start doing the ca/blo method but for some reason I have some difficulties with this method. I have yet to come up with a sure fire way to finish my pens. Does anyone else here use this brand of friction polish and would the Hut brand be a better option?
 
Last edited:
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
All friction polishes are about equally as worthless when used on anything that is handled as much as a pen. There are many finishes other than friction and CA. Consider lacquer, polyurethane, varnish...
 
Joe,
As Lou said the friction polish is pretty worthless unless you never use or handle the pens. You did not give specifics on the problems that you are having with the CA finish. Try doing a CA finish without the BLO and make sure your CA is fresh. If you have continued problems then start a post with a little more information as there are many members that can help you out.

Mike
 
What would you guys recommend as a lacquer, or polyurethane brand? Also, would you recommend a dip or a spray method? If a dip method is the way to go how would you keep it from entering the tube it self? Thanks to all for your input.
 
Though I haven't made very many pens I know that I wouldn't trust a friction polish of any kind to hold up over time. Bowls... yeah. Peppermills... maybe. Pens get to much abuse and the wax will get tacky in the heat too.

Made like three with that finish and haven't been willing to do it again since.

Just my two pennies,
lr
 
Joe,

I bought a rotisserie motor off of Ebay. I set it up with a 14" rod and two supports so that I can put finished blanks on the rod. With it turning, I spray multiple light coats of Deft gloss. It takes a bit of practice to keep the coats even and not drippy. I let it set for about a week and lightly polish. This is the best finish I do. Unoxal, a water based poly from Moby Dick Enterprise is also a very good material for a finish.
 
3-4 years ago at the Woodworker's show in Phoenix a pro pen maker Stephen Russell was teaching pen turning. Naturally, never seeing a pen turned, I had a few questions. Even did a little shining on one of the pens. I saw the finishing cans/bottles but forgot when I got home what they were. After a lot of searching I finally found his web sight & emailed him asking about his finish. His response was Mylands Friction Polish & Ren Wax. The Ren. wax will put a very hard coat on the pen & won't wear off. He had pictures of some of his pens that sold for $5,000. Inlaid pearls, rubies etc. Without the Ren wax it can wear quickly. I've used it a lot with good results, but I'm liking the CA finish also.
 
I have to agree with Skye on this. Wax is not a finish, it is a protective coat. To follow the line of reasoning that it would not wear off, you could wax your car once and done.

True there may be those who can apply friction polish better than others, but on the whole, friction polish is not a decent finish for pens.
 
I started out with Mylands because it was recommended by the sales department where I was buying. I learned very quickly that with use, it wears down and off! I switched to lacquer for wood (with a face mask) and apply it to the pen while on the mandrel. It dries in 30 to 40 minutes and I apply 5 to 6 coats (sometimes sanding between coats with fine steel wool to remove any blemishes). I use CA for a starter coat to smooth out the wood grain. Ive made a few dozen racks to slide the pen barrels onto while drying. I let it sit for 5 to 7 days depending on the lacquer I use and then polish with EEE paste and wax. Ive been using the PSI Dipping lacquer and just brush on with a small flat 1/4" craft brush. Ive used several types of lacquer but I like the thickness of the dipping lacquer and it is self leveling with no runs as long as you dont overload it. Sometimes I use straight CA for the entire pen finish and start with a few coats of thin and then switch to medium, but it still needs to sit over night and then micro sand smooth.
 
Like everyone I started with friction polish, but it will not last long - even when topped with a coat of Ren wax - maybe a week, then it is gone.
Then I used Enduro and still use it as well as Unaxol on certain woods.
Tried the different CA methods that were described here and some took 5x longer than the whole turning finishing process and the outcome was not predictable or reproducible. I am not the hobbyist that can take a weeks time to finish a pen. This is not meant as an insult, but I sell a lot of my pens at shows, private people, in stores and to corporations, so I might be considered a production turner.
But then at an AAW Symposium some years back, Rich Kleinhenz (Scubaman here at IAP) demonstrated pen turning - first time at an AAW meet - and he used thin (!) CA and accelerated the curing with a spray can accelerator. The results was excellent. As son as I got home I tried it, and saw that it worked for me. Since then, I only use thin CA. Four coats applied with a folded paper towel, dried with accelerant from a spray can after each coat. Takes maybe two/three minutes to apply. Followed by all MM to 6000 and finished with Novus fine polish. Result is excellent. Just the other day I was brought a pen for repair that was sold about a year back and used daily - the finish on the wood looked still like I took it off from the lathe.
I think the trick with the thin CA is that really thin and even coatings are applied.
 
JAB1 you must allow e-mails in your profile. I couldn't answer you since you would not accept e-mails.
Before I apply the CA, I MM to 4000, afterwards to 6000 and polish with Novus fine.
 
Like many here, when I started with pen turning, I learned the friction wax method from a Woodwright store in Texas... spoke to a crafter there who told me how he applied his wax and tried it... worked great and we had high gloss finish. I have pens that are over 4 years old that still have a high shine... but after joining IAP and reading all the threads about how the wax would not hold, I tried other finishes. Haven't tried the poly's or Deft or Lacquer yet, but tried plexi and Blo/CA.

It took me a while, but I think I have perfected the Blo/CA to the point that I get consistent finishes. I turn to size, then sand through 400. If I use the BLO, I'll put that on at high speed with a lint free paper from Kimberly Clark...4 x 6 sheets - I'll have to look at the box to give you the name of the sheets. I spin the BLO against the paper until it's smooth and beginning to dry a little.... turn the lathe down to 450 (slowest mine will go) and apply one coat thin CA as a finish, then multiple coats of medium.... Medium works best for me. After 6-8 coats, I'll turn the lathe back up to about 1800 and wet sand from 400 through 12000 and then use a plastic polish to finish off the shine.

I've tried every other method posted on IAP and TPS and this is what works for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom