Woodchipper
Member
What are the advantages of friction polish on wood pen blanks? Good or bad? Just watched a YouTube video making a DIY batch with BLO, shellac, and DNA; equal parts. Your observations or experience is most welcome.
Friction polish?
- Thread starter Woodchipper
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jttheclockman
Member
Quick deceitful sales. Looks great when first applied but wears off after use. Evidently you are going for a shiney finish so use something better.
Hippie3180
Member
I think there are ways to use it that provide some longevity to this kind of finish. I think a friction finish on wood is unrivaled in its beauty and natural feel and sheen, and if you add a disclaimer that with regular handling a wood pen will bloom into a beautiful patina…I don't think that's deceitful. Honest.
A CA finish will very shiny and probably more protective is somewhat "plasticy" feeling. Some wood require this kind of finish if they are soft for the protective value, but again the finish is not "natural."
A CA finish will very shiny and probably more protective is somewhat "plasticy" feeling. Some wood require this kind of finish if they are soft for the protective value, but again the finish is not "natural."
Woodchipper
Member
Back to ye olde CA finish for pens. Will mix a batch for other turnings and see what happens.
jttheclockman
Member
Yes there is disclaimers in there. If you explain that it needs further care down the road it makes a fine finish. I disagree with you on the feel. I can make a CA finish feel like wood just as easily. See alot of people go for the shiney look and build up with polish and things like that but just as easy to use less CA and stay with thin CA and do not go as high on the MM or step down after you get all scratches out. Also you can use satin lacquer. To me there is no better finish than to show depth of wood with lacquers. Finishers all over the world play with this type finish. CA is like a poly so the build up. But CA does not have to have that plastic feel. If I could show you a bog oak pen I did I would bet you that you could not tell what finish is on it if any. I use Danish oil on all my scrollsaw work and that has poly in it. But I have had so many customers over the years compliment me on the feel of the natural wood on those pieces. yet it is not overly shiney and yet still has that natural wood feel. What people like when you say wood feel is the sanding to higher grits than 220 and closing of the grain. That is what they feel. Less CA and that feel is still there is my point. Finishing is an art as well as turning the pen. The look you go for is a factor.
Hippie3180
Member
I didn't mean to capture this, sorry.
@jttheclockman,we may do some experimenting with this concept, but honestly friction polish is so beautiful and sells well, and we are very upfront about it as well.
howsitwork
Member
I have used it but , as said , after a while "it goes dull" but so what ? If I like the pen and it's pleasant to use and hold ???
Provided you're honest about usage changing the look, don't see the issue.
I use melamine ( as much because I haven't got hang of CA and smell etc ) and I like the way you can still see and feel the grain but it's protected . On Lignum vitae I just friction buff it ( rub with shavings then soft cloth at speed ) no added finish and I get a semi matt incredibly feeling finish and as these were all for family that's it.
For selling , the market determines what's " right" repeat customer = right choice
Provided you're honest about usage changing the look, don't see the issue.
I use melamine ( as much because I haven't got hang of CA and smell etc ) and I like the way you can still see and feel the grain but it's protected . On Lignum vitae I just friction buff it ( rub with shavings then soft cloth at speed ) no added finish and I get a semi matt incredibly feeling finish and as these were all for family that's it.
For selling , the market determines what's " right" repeat customer = right choice
jttheclockman
Member
Absolutely, if it works for you keep using. So many ways to get to the final stages of pen making. No right or wrong way. We all learn different methods.
monophoto
Member
Traditional friction polish is a blend of approximately equal amounts of boiled linseed oil, shellac, and shellac thinner. Goes on quickly, dries quickly, and multiple applications will build a nice shine. The downside is that shellac is a softer finish and will degrade slightly overtime as a result of handling.
A variation on the traditional formula is to use approximately equal amounts of oil, brushing lacquer, and lacquer thinner. Lacquer is much harder than shellac so this version tends to withstand handling much better. Otherwise, it is the same - same application, same drying time, etc. Brushing lacquer is a bit harder to find that shellac, but Deft and Watco both make it (there are probably other brands) and many hardware stores carry it. It may be less common in big box stores just because the demand for it is less.
Any of the drying oils can be used - BLO is the traditional choice, but I make mine using Tung Oil. It can also be made using Walnut oil. The main difference resulting from the choice of oil is the depth of the amber tone of the finish - BLO is the darkest, and walnut oil is the lightest. And there are other drying oils out there for those who like to experiment.
A variation on the traditional formula is to use approximately equal amounts of oil, brushing lacquer, and lacquer thinner. Lacquer is much harder than shellac so this version tends to withstand handling much better. Otherwise, it is the same - same application, same drying time, etc. Brushing lacquer is a bit harder to find that shellac, but Deft and Watco both make it (there are probably other brands) and many hardware stores carry it. It may be less common in big box stores just because the demand for it is less.
Any of the drying oils can be used - BLO is the traditional choice, but I make mine using Tung Oil. It can also be made using Walnut oil. The main difference resulting from the choice of oil is the depth of the amber tone of the finish - BLO is the darkest, and walnut oil is the lightest. And there are other drying oils out there for those who like to experiment.
leehljp
Member Liaison
Please Understand that Waxes, Polishes and wipe on Oil finishes were done in an era when labor was cheap and weekly polishing were common, and therefore were prized finishes. They were prized because they certainly looked good/great with weekly polishing/waxing/oiling.
We in general, Pen Owners in general, like the feel and look of the oil and or wax of yesteryear without that kind of work to keep it looking good. Friction Polishes, Waxes, Oils, Mixes require a lot of consistent and continuous work to keep the wood looking good.
Catalyzing oils like Tung oil, and even BLO and Walnut - will work well, but they do take TIME and multiple applications to make them do well. The problem with pens is that once we get used to making a pen and finishing it within an hour or so, it takes too much self control to go back to spending hours on a finish again. The secret to the time usurping finishes is to make multiple pens simultaneously. It doesn't take much more time to make 5 or 10 or 20 than it does to make 1 because of the hours of time for an oil finish to dry or catalyze on a single pen blank.
We in general, Pen Owners in general, like the feel and look of the oil and or wax of yesteryear without that kind of work to keep it looking good. Friction Polishes, Waxes, Oils, Mixes require a lot of consistent and continuous work to keep the wood looking good.
Catalyzing oils like Tung oil, and even BLO and Walnut - will work well, but they do take TIME and multiple applications to make them do well. The problem with pens is that once we get used to making a pen and finishing it within an hour or so, it takes too much self control to go back to spending hours on a finish again. The secret to the time usurping finishes is to make multiple pens simultaneously. It doesn't take much more time to make 5 or 10 or 20 than it does to make 1 because of the hours of time for an oil finish to dry or catalyze on a single pen blank.
sorcerertd
Member
I like the Pens Plus, but won't use it on all woods. CA (Gluboost) is still my go-to. I have yet to try the BLO/CA combo that I've read about here.
I do agree with John @jttheclockman that you can use CA and still retain a natural feel. The bog oak is a great example. You just have to wipe on a few coats rather than building it up too much. Generally, I can just buff it with a cloth once the CA cures. Honestly, it's one of the easier ways to finish a wood with a pronounced grain.
I do agree with John @jttheclockman that you can use CA and still retain a natural feel. The bog oak is a great example. You just have to wipe on a few coats rather than building it up too much. Generally, I can just buff it with a cloth once the CA cures. Honestly, it's one of the easier ways to finish a wood with a pronounced grain.