I Roy,
Most of what has been said is good information and I would add just a few extra details that can or not apply to you...!
Depending on what you want to do with the wood later on, its green preparation can differ considerably as these are my processes for green wood;
*- Not sure what the wood would be used for.
Leave the logs as long as possible or you can handle, seal the ends with one of many products, I like to use acrylic exterior paint, any colour...!
keep them off the ground and under cover, breeze is good, sun and rain is not...!
*- Timber will be used for making bowls later on;
Cut the logs 2 to 4" longer than its diameter, split them in half and seal the ends. Storing conditions should be as above is possible.
*- Timber will be used for making bowl, but rough turning green for faster drying time for finishing.
Cut your logs with the same length as its diameter and split them immediately.
Rough turn to about 1" thickness all around, treat/soak with a preservative/stabilizer, boil, freeze, alcohol treatment, etc., and put to dry in a well ventilated place, away from the weather. Finish in about 6 months time, depending on locations (temps, etc.)
*- Timber will be used for pen blanks and other small turnings;
Cut your wood over-sized (a few millimeters over), seal the end-grain with hot wax and stack then in layers over each other with some space in between (5 blanks each way is a good method), put a weight on top of the pile to void excessive movement in the wood or rap the pile into a bundle, which I call the "drying towers". This will the fasted method to dry pen blanks using air.
*- Timber needs to be cut into "usable blanks" of various sizes to reduce storage space and remove the unusable portions of the wood/log (bark, edges, etc...!) but doesn't require to dry in a hurry;
You cut your blanks over-sized and totally waxed them, this will protect the wood from cracking excessively while allowing for a slow dry.
These are the fundamental steps I take for my green woods, not always possible to store it all in a perfectly enclosed and weather proof situation, so the next best thing is to get a wooden pallet, put in under a shady tree if possible, staking the wood with spacers and covering it with a tarpollen. It helps considerably if you put an old roof tin sheathing over the top and tie it down, in bad weather leave it as is but in sunny weather, lift the tarpollen sides to allow the wood the breath a little and to void extra humidity in there that can start the spalting or moss/fungi process...!
Good luck and don't forget, use protective gear when handling a chainsaw...!:wink:
Cheers
George