Fountain pen conversion for Wilfrid rollerball kit

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NGLJ

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William Wood-Write is now selling Wilfrid fountain pen nib + section to convert the rollerball kit. I purchased the nib + section to make a custom fountain pen. Since it was very affordable, I wasn't sure what to expect by way quality. The section is nicely finished. The nib is like a #6 size and writes like a fine point. I was pleasantly surprised how well it writes. I would never compare it a Jowo or Bock, and will have to see how it stands up.

The section to barrel thread is a somewhat unusual M8.5 x 0.75, which made for an interesting challenge. I obtained the tap and die without too much trouble. The ideal drill for the tap is 7.75 MM. At first, I looked for a letter bit that might work. A letter N is 7.67 MM, and although I could thread the Alumilite barrel, the hole was too small for the the straight piece before the thread to enter the hole. A letter O is 8.03 MM, which is too big, and an 8 MM bit is also too big. I got a 5/16" (7.94 MM) to work with sufficient thread to engage solidly. Then came the question of the Beaufort converter, which is 7.78 MM at the widest point. In theory it should fit with 0.08 MM (~3 thou) on each side. That assumes that you can drill a "perfectly centered" hole. In practice it was difficult to get it in. Any increase in the hole size would ruin the thread. Ink cartridges are no problem. I have to assume that a slightly narrower converter is needed in this case.

I went with an M12 x 0.75 thread for the cap to barrel. It might be possible to go with an M11 x 1 thread, and I might try that. A more common section to barrel thread is M9 x 0.75. Who would think that 0.5 MM could make such a difference! I only had enough material for the cap, and thus made the barrel from Ebonite.
 

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William Wood-Write is now selling Wilfrid fountain pen nib + section to convert the rollerball kit. I purchased the nib + section to make a custom fountain pen. Since it was very affordable, I wasn't sure what to expect by way quality. The section is nicely finished. The nib is like a #6 size and writes like a fine point. I was pleasantly surprised how well it writes. I would never compare it a Jowo or Bock, and will have to see how it stands up.

The section to barrel thread is a somewhat unusual M8.5 x 0.75, which made for an interesting challenge. I obtained the tap and die without too much trouble. The ideal drill for the tap is 7.75 MM. At first, I looked for a letter bit that might work. A letter N is 7.67 MM, and although I could thread the Alumilite barrel, the hole was too small for the the straight piece before the thread to enter the hole. A letter O is 8.03 MM, which is too big, and an 8 MM bit is also too big. I got a 5/16" (7.94 MM) to work with sufficient thread to engage solidly. Then came the question of the Beaufort converter, which is 7.78 MM at the widest point. In theory it should fit with 0.08 MM (~3 thou) on each side. That assumes that you can drill a "perfectly centered" hole. In practice it was difficult to get it in. Any increase in the hole size would ruin the thread. Ink cartridges are no problem. I have to assume that a slightly narrower converter is needed in this case.

I went with an M12 x 0.75 thread for the cap to barrel. It might be possible to go with an M11 x 1 thread, and I might try that. A more common section to barrel thread is M9 x 0.75. Who would think that 0.5 MM could make such a difference! I only had enough material for the cap, and thus made the barrel from Ebonite.
Just realized that I misrepresented the nib. It isn't #6 size but #5.
 
I didn't have high expectations but it writes quite nicely. There is good, even ink flow, and so far no sign of it drying out. It isn't as smooth as a Jowo, but that would be way too much to expect.

There's a 99% chance you can make it smoother than it is now, and likely comparable to a JoWo nib. Read Richard Binder's 10 commandments of "what not to do" first, followed by the downloadable PDF with his step-by-step of how to smooth a nib.


The only item which can be a little pricey is the x10 loupe - but the Belomo brand that he recommends is very high quality at a fair price. The other items are available from Indy-Pen-Dance.

[edit to add: one that looks like THIS not one that has a built-in light]

If you decide to try this, I recommend buying a few ridiculously cheap fountain pens from Amazon or eBay - I got a six-pack or $10. At that price I had zero fear of utterly screwing up the nibs, and was surprised at how smooth they were after following Richard's instructions. So much so that I use two of them every day, alongside one I made myself with a JoWo nib.
 
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