Flexible Plumbing Tube with Metal Mesh Cover

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Ed Weingarden

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I read one of the tutorials (many months ago) about using the outer metal mesh from a piece of flexible plumbing tube (? water line connector to toilet tank). I want to re-read it, but can't find it. I've searched all 23 pages in the library and don't see it. Is anyone familiar with the tutorial and know where I can find it? Thanks.
 
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its_virgil

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I read one of the tutorials (many months ago) about using the outer metal mesh from a piece of flexible plumbing tube (? water line connector to toilet tank). I want to re-read it, but can't find it. I've searched all 23 pages in the library and don't see it. Is anyone familiar with the tutorial and know where I can find it? Thanks.
Most likely written by Les Elm. If not here then maybe you read the article in the files of one of the FB penturning groups. It is posted in several.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 

AllanS

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I read one of the tutorials (many months ago) about using the outer metal mesh from a piece of flexible plumbing tube (? water line connector to toilet tank). I want to re-read it, but can't find it. I've searched all 23 pages in the library and don't see it. Is anyone familiar with the tutorial and know where I can find it? Thanks.

It's on woodbarter. I tried it myself, took a bit of finessing and a couple of tries to get it where threads didn't unravel and poke at the ends.


edit - you have to login to download the pdf, but it's also here

 

jttheclockman

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Les uses a poly mesh that is not easy to find here in the states. Home Depot and lowes sells the stainless steel flex tubing and that is what I use. Being you asked about the metal this is what is used and then a clear casting of resin is applied over it. The poly as he uses requires you to build up the thickness of the tube with a drilled out and turned down dowel and then the poly is adhered to it to use the poly as the outer core and no resin is needed. As he says it has a tactile feel to it. I like using that plumber tubing that is SS because it has a coating on it that is so shiny which helps in final look when cast. I have cast these in both epoxy resin and also poly resin Silmar41.
IMGP0721.JPG
 
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BULLWINKLE

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Les uses a poly mesh that is not easy to find here in the states. Home Depot and lowes sells the stainless steel flex tubing and that is what I use. Being you asked about the metal this is what is used and then a clear casting of resin is applied over it. The poly as he uses requires you to build up the thickness of the tube with a drilled out and turned down dowel and then the poly is adhered to it to use the poly as the outer core and no resin is needed. As he says it has a tactile feel to it. I like using that plumber tubing that is SS because it has a coating on it that is so shiny which helps in final look when cast. I have cast these in both epoxy resin and also poly resin Silmar41. View attachment 341949
Very unique idea. Looks like it would make a terrific pen.
 

jttheclockman

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Thanks for all the replies. Yes, that's what I'm looking for.

@Jarod888 - thanks for posting the pdf.
Just to be clear that is not what you asked for. That is not metal jacketed material used in that PDF file posted. But maybe it is what you meant it to be so good luck. Let us see what you come up with. By the way if you find that material let me and others know where. Thanks
 

AllanS

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Perhaps I thought it was a metal mesh/weave based upon it's appearance.

While the PDF specifies that the outer coat of the connector he is using is a nylon braid, I've only been able to find stainless steel connectors.

If you compare @jttheclockman's pic above as well as my own less tight effort against what's in the PDF, you can see that 'our' braids are made up of lots of very small thin wires put together in bands, where the pic in the PDF looks like two large 'threads' being used for each weave.

One thing I've noticed is that this difference means you have to be a lot more careful with the ends as it is very easy to have the wires fray if you are using the PDF's 'pull the cable tight and CA down the edges' method. (I've no idea if the problem persists when cast though).

Even with starting about an inch away from the dowel on each end, and using a very careful application of a disk sander to take the edges of the braid back to the dowel, I still had a devil of a time with those wires. (many, many a hole was poked in my fingers while working this). You can see that, even as careful as I ended up having to be, there is just that touch of fraying occurring in mine.


Braided Cable 06.jpg
 
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