fixing small worm holes in the blank

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woodman95

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I've recently got some nice pale moon ebony, black & white blanks which should make some nice looking pens. Only trouble is there are a couple of small (16th" diam.) worm holes in it.

I was thinking of collecting fine sawdust from the turning process, mixing it with epoxy and then filling the holes with this mixture. Then after letting it dry well (24 hours) doing one final turning to clean up and smooth the surface of the fix.

Would this idea be what I should do, or does anyone have any tips as to how, when, and with what can I fix this problem in otherwise beautiful blanks.

I don't mind if the few holes are visible. I just don't want there to be any open holes.

Thanks in advance.
 
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I'd probably do something similar using CA (I'm too lazy to wait 24 hrs), or fill the holes with an alternative material. Some alternative materials include black embossing powder or other dark, fine grain material that will blend in well; shavings from tagua nuts (a.k.a. vegetable ivory); or using contrasting materials such as metals or semi-precious stones (such as the ground torquoise Bill Baumbeck and CSUSA sell).
 
What I do is fill the holes with dust as you mentioned but use thin CA and spritz it with accelerator after a minute. You are ready to finish your pen in no time. [:)]
 
Sand as normal. During the sanding the holes will fill up with dust. Thin coat of CA. Continue sanding. Cellulose sanding sealer (2 coats) sand with MM to 4000. Two coats thin CA. Two coats thick CA. Shine a light on the blank to make sure there is no indention. Sand thru 12000 MM. I always clean the dust out of the hole and just fill it with the coats of CA unless you can see the brass tube..
 
Like Russ and Pipes I perfer charcoal. I buy it from an art supply store, it comes in a stick form so just scrape off enough to do the job. I scrape the charcoal onto a piece of wax paper so when in contacts the CA they don't stick together and my fingers don't turn black. (you also have a huge variety of pastel colors if your problem isn't black). Apply a drop of thin CA, push the charcoal into the hole, apply another drop of CA, let stand until you can't press a fingernail or screwdriver into the patch, than turn away.
David
 
I save some shavings when I am working on the lathe [;)] on separate bottles and use when needed.

On Buckeye, I love using red (amboyna) on the holes. The contrast really makes the pen pop. [^] Try it some time.
 
Don, on large voids (mainly in flat work) I use epoxy mixed with sawdust, wood shavings or coffee grounds. For pens I use the same materials, but I use CA to seal and set the material once it's in place. I always try to use a contrasting material and it accents the piece.
 
Sanding dust and thin ca for the small stuff and crushed stone or other inlay material for the BIG stuff. I have been turning stuff with big splits and checks in it just so I can do inlay with stone and inlay material.

Nolan
 
Thanks to all who passed on tips. For my first attempt, I was generally pleased with the result. But I know that with all this good advice and turning a couple more of these blanks, I'll have it perfected.

Thanks again!
 
I apparently approach worm holes differently than others. I like them and want to leave them visible. I fill them with CA only so that it is clear and you can see into the hole. I also do this with voids from bark inclusions, etc. If it shows down to the barrel I usually add a little black CA at the bottom to cover up the brass and then fill with plain CA.
 
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