First with Bock nib unit

[its_virgil]

Sections for the #6 JoWo nib unit were never a problem. Sections for the #6 Bock nib unit gave me fits. If you know you know.

This pen was made from a Devine Island blank (blue sky think).
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[Valleyboy]

I couldn't work out exactly what's happening to cause this, so forgive me if I'm wrong, but my guess is you're adding a rebate/undercutting at the back end of the threads on the section to allow it to screw into the barrel smoothly. (I see this a lot). If you are then it creates a point of weakness which may cause the threaded tenon to come away when drilling the wider diameter needed for the Bock nib unit. (Again I'm guessing your order of events).
If so I would suggest adding a small rebate inside the barrel if needed, rather than adding an undercut to the tenon.

Or alternatively make the visible part of the section long enough to entirely envelope the nib unit so you don't come close to the threaded tenon when drilling for the nib unit.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers
Ash

 

[its_virgil]

I couldn't work out exactly what's happening to cause this, so forgive me if I'm wrong, but my guess is you're adding a rebate/undercutting at the back end of the threads on the section to allow it to screw into the barrel smoothly. (I see this a lot). If you are then it creates a point of weakness which may cause the threaded tenon to come away when drilling the wider diameter needed for the Bock nib unit. (Again I'm guessing your order of events).
If so I would suggest adding a small rebate inside the barrel if needed, rather than adding an undercut to the tenon.

Or alternatively make the visible part of the section long enough to entirely envelope the nib unit so you don't come close to the threaded tenon when drilling for the nib unit.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers
Ash

I was actually drilling for the nib unit threads too deeply getting into the tenon. And the tap wS entering the tenon. When the tap got close to the tenon it broke. I like your suggestions.

 

[Valleyboy]

I was actually drilling for the nib unit threads too deeply getting into the tenon. And the tap wS entering the tenon. When the tap got close to the tenon it broke. I like your suggestions.

Sure, stopping drilling before the tenon is the safest and my comment about the undercut becomes redundant in that case.

By the way I should have said well done on the pen in the first place! Great work!

Cheers
Ash

 

[its_virgil]

The Bock nib unit threads are incorrectly reported in my original post. They should be M7.9x.6

 

[duncsuss]

Great looking pen, Don.

I'm about to make some Bock #6 sections. Like you, I've been making JoWo sections without too many problems ... that is, once I got the turning, drilling and threading in the correct sequence I'll pay extra attention to the depth I drill & tap for the housing.

 

[its_virgil]

Great looking pen, Don.

I'm about to make some Bock #6 sections. Like you, I've been making JoWo sections without too many problems ... that is, once I got the turning, drilling and threading in the correct sequence I'll pay extra attention to the depth I drill & tap for the housing.

Thanks. There seemed to be some change in the housing. Not sure when. I have several Bock nib units and a couple of them do not screw in as far as they should. The tap I have from one of the group buys was not working. It was marked with D4 next to the M7.9x.6. I was advised to get a different tap and it worked fine. I can let you know where I got it if you encounter the same problems. I can also tell you my drilling sequence if you want.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[duncsuss]

Thanks. There seemed to be some change in the housing. Not sure when. I have several Bock nib units and a couple of them do not screw in as far as they should. The tap I have from one of the group buys was not working. It was marked with D4 next to the M7.9x.6. I was advised to get a different tap and it worked fine. I can let you know where I got it if you encounter the same problems. I can also tell you my drilling sequence if you want.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Thanks; I don't remember what the coding on my tap is, but I have a matching die so I can chase the threads on the housing before fitting it into the section. I've found that helps with JoWo units too - they are sometimes a little out of round and get stuck in the section.

The most frequent reason I snap off the tenon is if I forget to thread it before drilling the hole where the ink converter goes in. I sometimes get away with it, but more often it just breaks off under the stress of cutting the threads. If I run into trouble I'll take you up on the offer of your step-by-step.

 

[Charlie_W]

Wonderful pen Don!! At first glance, I would have guessed it to be a Brooks blank.

 

[CAS]

Hi Don,
I have been working with Bock nibs also. Where did you get your m13-.8 tap and die? Is it a single start? I have been using a triple start and want to switch to a single.

Thanks,
Charles

 

[its_virgil]

Hi Don,
I have been working with Bock nibs also. Where did you get your m13-.8 tap and die? Is it a single start? I have been using a triple start and want to switch to a single.

Thanks,
Charles

Charles,
I purchased my M13x.8 triple lead tap and die during a group buy here a couple of years ago. You can certainly use single lead threads and the taps and dies are MUCH cheaper. Here is a source on Amazon: M13 tap and die

Some even use ASE threads instead of metric...at least to learn the process. But, single lead metric taps and dies are not expensive. Search around on Amazon or Google, MSC Direct, etc. Good luck.

Do a good turn daily!
Don